OK, all... Here's one I haven't seen. about 18 months ago i replace the gears in both headlamp motors with Rodney's brass gears.
The side cover on one refused to stay glued. I just found out that Rodney (http://rodneydickman.com/retail_new.html ) now makes a brace for reeeel reasonable to fix this problem. Gonna order today..... Incidentally, Rodney seems to be a great guy and businessman... fast shipper, answered his phone on Saturday (!!!) and was very helpful.
BUT
The other side was fine for a while; no problem at all re side popping off. Several months ago it stopped raising or lowering -- unless I gave the headlamp door a lttle manual help. There is no grinding sound, the motor is firm to the gear case (Rodney suggested I check that,) and the nut attaching the lever to the gear shaft is firm, and there is no slippage there. Rodney had not heard of this problem.... it's like it has a slip clutch ... you know, like you have on your drill to use when using as an electric scewdriver. (Except no racchet sound.) Has anyone ever heard of or experiennced this problem? The only thing I can think of is that the worm gear (i.e, the "screw" gear) is slipping on the motor armature/shaft.
Also (yeah i know this is getting loooong) has anyone had any experience with the A1-Cardone reman headlight motors? $120 exchange vs. about $180 for new.
Any insight appreciated.
David

 

When you say no grinding sound I assume you mean there is no motor sound at all. A slipping gear with the motor turning would be obvious since the manual **** would be spinning. I might have a low tech solution - not sure but worth a try.

I had a similar issue long before my original gear went and I replaced with Rodney's brass gear. What would happen is that one headlight would not come up, no sound or anything. If I turned the motor's manual **** a turn or two, it would come up fine. What I believe is happening is when the motor closes the headlight it stops turning when current increases due to the motor hitting a stop which signals the headlight control module to cut power to it. I believe this can result in the manual **** being real tight against the motor housing. Then when you go to raise the headlight the **** is so tight that the headlight control module senses a high current draw as if it hit a stop and it cuts power.

Solution: Try spraying some lithium grease between the manual **** and the motor housing. It may lubricate the contact area enough to prevent this condition.

 

Mine did this when my actuator went out. Had to replace it.

 

JC... sorry if i didn't make it clear. The motor turns / spins / runs fine (but hey, I LOVE low-tech solutions ... thanks for the thought.... just ot applicable to my situation.) What i meant was no gnashing (did I spell that right?) sound like when the stock plastic gear is stripped.

Sunset... what symptoms did your vette have when the actuator was bad?

Thanks to both of you.

 

Turns out it was the rubber bumpers causing my problem! Fortunately, I had ordered them along with the "braces and urethane" for both sides from Rodney (had previously replaced the gears with brass ones.) FYI the braces and new adhesive are great.