Rear Engine Oil Leak Help Needed
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 619
Likes: 1
From: ATLANTA GA
to get the rear plug out.. Try this..
Autozone and advance in the body section allot of times sell a "dent puller"
Its just a slide hammer you use a screw to use..
Drill the right size hole in the center of the cap, and thread the screw in and slam it with the slide hammer..
give that a shot..
Autozone and advance in the body section allot of times sell a "dent puller"
Its just a slide hammer you use a screw to use..
Drill the right size hole in the center of the cap, and thread the screw in and slam it with the slide hammer..
give that a shot..
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Regardless of how you pull the plug, be careful you don't create more problems than you solve. Pushing it in too far would not be a fun problem. Here's a pic to illustrate the oil plugs in the block and crank.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 934
From: Indianapolis IN
Thanks for the diagrams Patches, ya I figured pushing the plug in to far would be a nightmare that I do not want to participate in.
After some more thinking, I am not sure the plug is leaking. My clutch disc and pressure plate were dry, no oil on them at all. If the plug were leaking, the only place for the oil to go would be the front side of the flywheel and onto the clutch. All of my "wetness" is on the backside of the flywheel and the right side of the block, and of course the inside of the bellhousing from being flung around by the flywheel. Yet the rear main seal looks to be OK, I did not see any streaking on the back of the block from the rear main seal. The outside of the bellhousing (above the lower inspection section) is dry. The block beyond the bellhousing is dry. The back of the cylinder heads are dry.
One confused puppy.
I guess at this point, really the only thing to do is replace the crank plug and rear main seal and hope for the best. Other the the rear main seal carrier gasket, there isnt anything else back there to leak that I can see. And I am pretty darn sure it is NOT the rear main seal carrier gasket that is leaking.
After some more thinking, I am not sure the plug is leaking. My clutch disc and pressure plate were dry, no oil on them at all. If the plug were leaking, the only place for the oil to go would be the front side of the flywheel and onto the clutch. All of my "wetness" is on the backside of the flywheel and the right side of the block, and of course the inside of the bellhousing from being flung around by the flywheel. Yet the rear main seal looks to be OK, I did not see any streaking on the back of the block from the rear main seal. The outside of the bellhousing (above the lower inspection section) is dry. The block beyond the bellhousing is dry. The back of the cylinder heads are dry.
One confused puppy.
I guess at this point, really the only thing to do is replace the crank plug and rear main seal and hope for the best. Other the the rear main seal carrier gasket, there isnt anything else back there to leak that I can see. And I am pretty darn sure it is NOT the rear main seal carrier gasket that is leaking.
Last edited by ssmith512; Feb 25, 2008 at 09:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 934
From: Indianapolis IN
OK, need some technical info please. My service manuals that I ordered are not hear yet. I am now centering my focus on the rear main seal carrier plate. Can anyone tell me if the bolts holding that plate onto the back of the block need thread sealant on them? Also, are their any locating dowel pins for that plate that would prevent me from removing it while the engine is still in the car. I have a new carrier gasket, but before I start tyring to pull the plate off the block I want to make sure I can get it off the block and back on without messing it up halfway through the removal process. I dont want start taking it off and realize I cant take it all the way off with the motor in the car, possibly making my oil leak worse. Also note that I am unable to access the upper bellhousing bolts so the upper bellhousing is still attached to the block as well. Thanks again in advance!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 7,370
Likes: 8
From: Slave to the evil empire
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04
Yes, you can take it off, remember that there are 2 bolts coming up thru the oil pan also. You can get at the top bellhousing bolts (If needed) by using a 13mm swivel socket.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 934
From: Indianapolis IN
Thanks runamuk.
I have no concrete evidence of what is leaking. Logic tells me that there is only three things that could be leaking; the rear main seal, the rear main seal carrier plate gasket or the crank plug.
Here is what I am going to do. I have replaced the rear main seal as it is the easiest out of the three. Since I dont want to take the car apart again if I still have an oil leak, I am going to degrease everything, bolt the flywheel back up, hang the headers, install the intake manifold and start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Let the oil get nice and warm. Then, after it cools, take the flywheel off and see what we got. May put some oil dye in and black light the car to help with finding the leak. I have fixed a lot of oil leaks in my time, but I swear, this one is giving me fits. I could be over analyzing this way too much as well.
I just hate oil drips on my garage floor.
Again, thanks to everyone who has offered advice and assistance. Hopefully I can repay these nice gestures at some point in the future.
I have no concrete evidence of what is leaking. Logic tells me that there is only three things that could be leaking; the rear main seal, the rear main seal carrier plate gasket or the crank plug.
Here is what I am going to do. I have replaced the rear main seal as it is the easiest out of the three. Since I dont want to take the car apart again if I still have an oil leak, I am going to degrease everything, bolt the flywheel back up, hang the headers, install the intake manifold and start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Let the oil get nice and warm. Then, after it cools, take the flywheel off and see what we got. May put some oil dye in and black light the car to help with finding the leak. I have fixed a lot of oil leaks in my time, but I swear, this one is giving me fits. I could be over analyzing this way too much as well.
I just hate oil drips on my garage floor.Again, thanks to everyone who has offered advice and assistance. Hopefully I can repay these nice gestures at some point in the future.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 934
From: Indianapolis IN
Well turns out the rear crank plug is the cause of my leak. Dont really understand how or why at this point. Visually it looks fine, and appears to be square with the crank. Oh well, dont get it, but it definately where the oil is coming from. Tried tapping on it to see if I could get it to rotate so I could pull it out, and it wont budge. Weird. Went to Autozone and bought a dent puller and will be trying that tomorrow. Hopefully it works it getting the old plug out. Why couldnt it just be the rear main seal?!?!?!!??!?!?!?!?!
Pro
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 565
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Bragg, NC
well hell after reading this thread i sure as hell know what im in for... i will be going back in that area within the next couple weeks to find the same problem of an oil leak some-fuggin-where back there.
sure glad you finally found your problem and its good to know that I will be going in there to look for those 3 main sources and anything else I can find.
anyways congrats on the find and go enjoy and oil free garage!
sure glad you finally found your problem and its good to know that I will be going in there to look for those 3 main sources and anything else I can find.
anyways congrats on the find and go enjoy and oil free garage!
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 934
From: Indianapolis IN
Dent puller worked like a charm!! I am so happy, as I really thought I was going to have difficulties. Plug came out with two relatively light pulls.
I still really dont have any idea why the plug was leaking. It looks OK and it wasnt crooked in the crank before I pulled it out. Nonetheless, a new plug has been installed. I went ahead a put a small amount of black Permatex on the new plug to aid in sealing. That is all I know to do.
At least I found the oil leak and was able to fix it (I hope!!!). Now just waiting on the new diff to arrive so I can start putting the car back together.
Thanks a ton to everyone who assisted me.
I still really dont have any idea why the plug was leaking. It looks OK and it wasnt crooked in the crank before I pulled it out. Nonetheless, a new plug has been installed. I went ahead a put a small amount of black Permatex on the new plug to aid in sealing. That is all I know to do.
At least I found the oil leak and was able to fix it (I hope!!!). Now just waiting on the new diff to arrive so I can start putting the car back together.
Thanks a ton to everyone who assisted me.
Racer
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 253
Likes: 3
From: The Woodlands Texas
There were some Eagle cranks that had the wrong size pilot bearing area. Eagle supplies a special pilot bearing to fit the mis-sized cranks.
See This thread
See This thread
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,879
Likes: 3
From: Hobart, WI
I think you mentioned earlier your oil dipstick was popping up?
You could be "burping" the rear main seal which would spit oil then reseal once the pressure is released. Have seen that where you are pressurizing the crankcase.
You could be "burping" the rear main seal which would spit oil then reseal once the pressure is released. Have seen that where you are pressurizing the crankcase.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 934
From: Indianapolis IN
see5 - No, I have never had a problem with the dipstick popping out. I am N/A, so probably not much crankcase pressure. I still run the stock PCV with no oil catch can.
c5streak - new pilot bearing appears to be slightly larger than the one that "fell" out of the crank. I have not measured the bearings or the crank journal yet, but I can not slide the new bearing in the crank with my fingers like I can with the old one. Gotta find my calipers and I will report back with what I find.
c5streak - new pilot bearing appears to be slightly larger than the one that "fell" out of the crank. I have not measured the bearings or the crank journal yet, but I can not slide the new bearing in the crank with my fingers like I can with the old one. Gotta find my calipers and I will report back with what I find.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 9
From: Eddy Texas
Did you check the link in post #30 (Allvette). Looks like some of the Eagle cranks have a missized pilot hole. Maybe the new bearing would fit for you!
Good luck!
ps; The black Permatex you put on the plug is some great ch*t for just that purpose!
Good luck!
ps; The black Permatex you put on the plug is some great ch*t for just that purpose!
Last edited by c5streak; Mar 2, 2008 at 07:24 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,470
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
I read that thread. What a crap solution! They bored the crank wrong, and send out custom bearing to fix it? **** poor. I'll never buy an eagle assembly after hearing that, not because of the problem, but because of the bandaid fix.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 934
From: Indianapolis IN
If not, at least I know there is a solution, I have read of two solutions, one where they sent out knurled bearings, and another where they sent out a bronze bushing sized to fit the crank properly.A friend of mine talked to SDPC at a vendor show here in Indy this weekend, and they have apparently stopped using Eagle cranks because of this (and I guess other) issues. They are using Callie cranks now from what they told my friend.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,470
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
Yep I saw that thread, along with a bunch of other threads at LS1tech.com. Oh well, it is what it is. I too hope the new bearing fits! If not, at least I know there is a solution, I have read of two solutions, one where they sent out knurled bearings, and another where they sent out a bronze bushing sized to fit the crank properly.
A friend of mine talked to SDPC at a vendor show here in Indy this weekend, and they have apparently stopped using Eagle cranks because of this (and I guess other) issues. They are using Callie cranks now from what they told my friend.
If not, at least I know there is a solution, I have read of two solutions, one where they sent out knurled bearings, and another where they sent out a bronze bushing sized to fit the crank properly.A friend of mine talked to SDPC at a vendor show here in Indy this weekend, and they have apparently stopped using Eagle cranks because of this (and I guess other) issues. They are using Callie cranks now from what they told my friend.
