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I plan on taking my Corvette to Beech Bend for the 1st time this Saturday. Its an 01 Cp 6sp Z51 with new G/Y GS D3's. It is bone stock except Corsa Pace Car Tiger Sharks and 28k miles...
I need some advice on launch techniques, burnout and tire pressures. I have made many passes in my 95 a4 cp. but its about 15 years since I raced a manual.
I have only driven this car about 500 miles so far, so I'm still trying to get comfortable with it. It feels way faster than my 95, but I guess the times will tell the truth......
Last edited by pettvette; Feb 24, 2008 at 02:56 PM.
I plan on taking my Corvette to Beech Bend for the 1st time this Saturday. Its an 01 Cp 6sp Z51 with new G/Y GS D3's. It is bone stock except Corsa Pace Car Tiger Sharks and 28k miles...
I need some advice on launch techniques, burnout and tire pressures. I have made many passes in my 95 a4 cp. but its about 15 years since I raced a manual.
I have only driven this car about 500 miles so far, so I'm still trying to get compfortable with it. It feels way faster than my 95, but I guess the times will tell the truth......
Stay away from the dragstrip, it will just cost you a heck of a lot of money in the next couple of years...
get the front tires up to 45 lbs to reduce friction.
lower the pressure in the rear tires -not sure what-- I have A4 with line lock so burn outs are easy for me. This will be essential to get the stock tires to hook up. M6 guys will need to jump in here but they seem to want to get out of 1st gear as soon as possible and into 2nd-if you have "heads up" display it will be easier to see your shift points. It is sure a lot of fun!!!
Don't get discouraged - you'll learn to "feather" the stick shift. Some guy in the vette mags has a book or dvd on how to be very effective shifting with M6.
If you want to make it easy on yourself, just buy/rent my drag radials for the day. It will make launches a lot easier and eliminate wheel hop. I can throw them in the back of the truck if you are interested. Let me know.
get the front tires up to 45 lbs to reduce friction.
lower the pressure in the rear tires -not sure what-- I have A4 with line lock so burn outs are easy for me. This will be essential to get the stock tires to hook up. M6 guys will need to jump in here but they seem to want to get out of 1st gear as soon as possible and into 2nd-if you have "heads up" display it will be easier to see your shift points. It is sure a lot of fun!!!
Don't get discouraged - you'll learn to "feather" the stick shift. Some guy in the vette mags has a book or dvd on how to be very effective shifting with M6.
The recommended approach to dragracing is to do burnouts on the STOCK tires?
Most people with normal street tires that I see doing passes always bypass the burnout area and then just do a quick spin to make sure the tires are dry. Won't tires that aren't slicks or drag radials just get really greasy and slip more if you do a burnout on them?
If you want to make it easy on yourself, just buy/rent my drag radials for the day. It will make launches a lot easier and eliminate wheel hop. I can throw them in the back of the truck if you are interested. Let me know.
HP, Thanks for the nice offer. At this point I'm not sure about the d/r's. I only plan on making 3 or 4 passes to see how this car compares to my C4. I have only tried one mild launch on the street and I did get wheel hop. I'll give it some tought and get back to you later this week...
Thanks guys...I did find plenty of good advice on Ranger's web page...
The recommended approach to dragracing is to do burnouts on the STOCK tires?
Most people with normal street tires that I see doing passes always bypass the burnout area and then just do a quick spin to make sure the tires are dry. Won't tires that aren't slicks or drag radials just get really greasy and slip more if you do a burnout on them?
I believe your description relates to runflats but not to non-runflats like the goodyear supercar tires that used to be original equipment on the Z06. I am not familiar with the kind of tires the author of this thread has mentioned.
For my non-runflat street tires I have lowered the psi to about 16 or 17 an done a decent burnout and have had 1.8+- 60 foots launching at about 1800 rpm.
ADDITIONAL Note to PettVette - if you have the f45 suspension you should place the setting on TOUR to help with weight distribution at launch.
I believe your description relates to runflats but not to non-runflats like the goodyear supercar tires that used to be original equipment on the Z06. I am not familiar with the kind of tires the author of this thread has mentioned
I wasn't referring to runflats at all, nor have I ever discussed them with anybody. I don't really care for them.
It's odd though, you're the first person I've ever heard say do a burnout with normal street tires.
I wasn't referring to runflats at all, nor have I ever discussed them with anybody. I don't really care for them.
It's odd though, you're the first person I've ever heard say do a burnout with normal street tires.
Any other opinions on this?
It has been my experience that street tires in general do not get greasy, slippery after a burnout but again my experience with my Vette indicates that the stock runflats do indeed show those characteristics.
In addition, again my experience, indicates doing a decent burnout with good year supercar tires (not a 10 second all out smoke causing one) definitely improves traction and 60 foot times.
Perhaps you are not listening to the right information?
The recommended approach to dragracing is to do burnouts on the STOCK tires?
Most people with normal street tires that I see doing passes always bypass the burnout area and then just do a quick spin to make sure the tires are dry. Won't tires that aren't slicks or drag radials just get really greasy and slip more if you do a burnout on them?
Street tires do not hold heat like a slick or DR. You can burn them up and get them real hot but they will start to cool down by the time you are staging. Most just spin them to the line to clean them off. I never did burn outs on street tires, just spun them to the line and I never had a problem hooking up. A lot of that has to do with track prep too though. Also, street tires should bypass the water box because the tread will catch the water, throw it up around the wheels and drip and drag it to the starting line.
Street tires do not hold heat like a slick or DR. You can burn them up and get them real hot but they will start to cool down by the time you are staging. Most just spin them to the line to clean them off. I never did burn outs on street tires, just spun them to the line and I never had a problem hooking up. A lot of that has to do with track prep too though. Also, street tires should bypass the water box because the tread will catch the water, throw it up around the wheels and drip and drag it to the starting line.
This is the kind of information I've always heard, and hence why my buddies always told me to bypass the burnout box and not bother with doing any burnouts. I think I heard something about them getting greasy if you do a huge burnout and not being too efficient, but not holding heat would be a problem too.
Either way, doesn't sound like doing burnouts on street tires does any good. I'll probably still mess around at the strip and see what works best, but I'm not too optimistic on doing burnouts...they just don't make sense with regular street tires.
This is the kind of information I've always heard, and hence why my buddies always told me to bypass the burnout box and not bother with doing any burnouts. I think I heard something about them getting greasy if you do a huge burnout and not being too efficient, but not holding heat would be a problem too.
Either way, doesn't sound like doing burnouts on street tires does any good. I'll probably still mess around at the strip and see what works best, but I'm not too optimistic on doing burnouts...they just don't make sense with regular street tires.
I have heard about them getting greasy too. Never actually did a big burnout and checked them myself so I don't know for sure. Not holding heat isn't necessarily a problem but it just makes heating them up a useless step. Why kill tires for no reason? I've managed to get a bolt on coupe to 60' in the low 1.8s by just cleaning off street tires. I'm sure I could do better now that my driving skills have improved. So good results can be had without burnouts.
From: 2007 Nat'l Corvette Challenge 11.50 index Champ. New Jersey
Anytime I've run/ran on street tires, I go around the water & do what I call a "rolling burnout" up to the line. 1st gear, rpm's up to about 4000 & dump the clutch & let her be carried up to close to the starting line, then clutch in & off the gas. Heats them up some & cleans them off at the same time. Don't go below 24-26 psi as traction seems to be reduced below that psi.
The above HAS worked fine for me.See my sig for street tire times & 60' times.
drive around any and all water you see. i have watched people drive right through the water box, spin their tires, coast up to the line and the water from their wheel wells drips onto the tires and they just spin or kick the *** end out when the power comes on.
assuming you have stock gearing in the *** end, i would bring the revs up to 1500-2k..you will need to practice on the street a few times. the cars weight has to transfer before you can get all the way out of the clutch and mash the gas down...
next thing to keep in mind is the heat you will put into the clutch if you attempt to leave at 3-4k and slide the clutch...personally i would pass..too much money to replace a clutch for a time slip.
if your running dots than you will need to raise the revs or you will bog..
dont worry about your reaction time, who cares if their is a honda next to you that cuts a .500 bulb...just focus on getting out of the gate with as minimal spinning as possible.