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Trying to get opinions on clutches. I have 100,000 miles on the car clutch feels like its ready to go any day now. I need one that is rated for 550 Hp. Any advice welcom
i feel ur pain on the clutch issues. ive been looking for something sim.,
alot of people on here will tell u that the textrillia is the best and they have a valid point. but no more power than ur wanting to hold u may take a look at centerforce DF. its $350 compaired to $1000 for the tex. maybe more to ur liking. anther thing u may want to look at is upgrading ur slave while ur there. (highly recomended)
I'm in the same situation. I need a clutch for a litlle more than the 444rwhp I have now. I'd like to do it right the first time. Ported Fast/Weiand and Nick Williams TB to come!
444rwhp I would go with the Single Tex while you can still get them. I ran the Single Tex on the track last year and it performed flawlessly.
Another choice depending on your RWHP and the way you drive is the LS7 clutch. A bunch of guys I talked to that ran their car on road courses this year had no issues with the C6Z and the Ls7 clutch assembly.
Unfortunately I now need a Tex Exo for my ECS LS7-427 build (more power than the C6Z) and they are no where to be found. I did a ton of research and decided to go with the Spec Twin Ptrim. I will be putting it in in 2 weeks and then going to Pocono about 500 miles later so I should be able to give some good feedback on how it feels on and off the track.
Tex is a great clutch. I'm currently running a Center Force Dual Friction and like it alot and holds 8 psi of boost. My next clutch up to bat is a Spec Twin Disc .
444rwhp I would go with the Single Tex while you can still get them. Another choice depending on your RWHP and the way you drive is the LS7 clutch.
As soon as I did my head and cam, the car doesn't want to shift at high rpm's(pressure plate??) anymore. So I figure time for a new clutch. I've been thinking about the two clutches above plus a 12" Centerforce dual friction and a RPS sinigle. I mainly a light to light but will see the track maybe twice a year. I'd also like as close to stock clutch pedal feel.
As soon as I did my head and cam, the car doesn't want to shift at high rpm's(pressure plate??) anymore. So I figure time for a new clutch. I've been thinking about the two clutches above plus a 12" Centerforce dual friction and a RPS sinigle. I mainly a light to light but will see the track maybe twice a year. I'd also like as close to stock clutch pedal feel.
I can tell you I did not have luck with the RPS single and either did some other people I know. It lasted about 2 months on the track and then when it got hot it was impossible to shift.
I'm running a RAM Dual Street in my 403 now. It's been a great clutch and smooth like butter. The only problem rattle from the dual disc. I put mine in about 18 months ago and I understand they have made some changes to help with the noise. The rattle is just out of character with my "Gentleman's Cruiser" so out it goes.
I'm pulling it out and putting in a Tex OZ700 but in the X grip. It will handle my RWHP/RWT and drive like stock I'm told. I've driven the Z grip and it did chatter more than I'm willing to put up with. I drive my car in rush hour traffic somtimes and don't need a grabby/chatterin clutch.
I am using a Cartek Clutch and so far so good. I like the feel of it, not too heavy but it is rather stiff and somewhat on off but I guess that is the sacrifice with high performance clutches
Tex is a great clutch. I'm currently running a Center Force Dual Friction and like it alot and holds 8 psi of boost. My next clutch up to bat is a Spec Twin Disc .
is the Center Force Dual Friction real grabby? or can it be streetable?
i don't commute so a little grabby is OK just want the family to be able to drive it in a pinch
Had an Exedy Hyper Single, now have a Tex OZ700 w/6 puck disc holding 460 rwhp easily.
Contact ByunSpeed.com, very helpful and great to work with.
IMO both are amazing but the OZ700 is as close as you will ever get to a stock feel.
Also, Replace your slave cylinder! Trust me, you will never regret doing it and very bad and very expensive things can happen if you don't. Believe, me I know.
Last edited by MongoosC5; Mar 3, 2008 at 10:33 AM.
Reason: added more stuff
is the Center Force Dual Friction real grabby? or can it be streetable?
i don't commute so a little grabby is OK just want the family to be able to drive it in a pinch
do a search on the centerforce df the people who have them love them and many have more than 500 rwhp the ingagement is supposed to be smoother than stock but can be slipped out of the hole and still grab like crazy. the more i read about it the more i like it. i just cant see paying $700 more just to over kill the heck out of something. if u need it then u need it, if u just want it and can afford it then buy it, and when in doubt go all out!!!
As soon as I did my head and cam, the car doesn't want to shift at high rpm's(pressure plate??) anymore. So I figure time for a new clutch. I've been thinking about the two clutches above plus a 12" Centerforce dual friction and a RPS sinigle. I mainly a light to light but will see the track maybe twice a year. I'd also like as close to stock clutch pedal feel.
Originally Posted by rustyguns
is the Center Force Dual Friction real grabby? or can it be streetable?
i don't commute so a little grabby is OK just want the family to be able to drive it in a pinch
I have the centerforce dual friction (12") and I love it, it was a *TAD* grabby for the first 200 miles but after that it drives JUST like stock and has a stock pedal feel. The 12" ones are good to 650 RWTQ. I have about 550 miles on it now with many launches and high rpm shifts