I started to have a little problem with either my theft deterant system, clutch safety system, or starter. I moved to Tampa, Fl last month, but will fly to Virginia next week, and drive the car back to Tampa.

When the car doesnt start, I hear clicks down on the passenger floor board. After pushing the clutch in a couple times and turn the key, it finially completes a circuit and starts. Seems to do it when the car gets to operating temperture.

I really wont have a chance to fix what the problem is before I drive it to Tampa, and was wondering given anyone of the above issues, if the car doesnt start at a rest area, can I roll it to a push start?

I dont plan to stop much, but I know it will glitch on me during the drive.

 

Kinda depends on why it won't start .....

If it is a starter motor problem, then definately a push start will work.

If it is a theft deterrrent issue, it won't work.

If it is the clutch interlock, then a push start will work.

Before you take off on your odyssey ... if the problem occurs .... look at the dashboard when your key is in the START position ... is the SECURITY light on or blinking ????

If the SECURITY light is on/blinking with the key in the START position, then the Theft Deterrent system is preventing engine start.

However, before you take off, if you can, check the electrical connections to your starter motor. They have a tendancy to come loose, and that will create almost exactly the symptoms you are mentioning.

Have a safe trip,

 

Yes, you can push-start it, and if you hear a click in the pass footwell when attempting to start, that would be the TDR energizing, and more than likely it's the starter itself that's the problem.

Based on your description, I think you're action of pushing the clutch pedal a few times, then turning the key is coincidence, and not indicative of a a clutch switch problem.

If you'd like to rule that out for sure next time the problem occurs, if you turn the key, and no crank, continue to HOLD the key to the start position and while holding it, pump the clutch pedal in and out, and listen for that TDR clicking. If it clicks in sync with your clutch pedal actuation, your pedal switch is working just fine.

 

It does do that.

The reason I would have thought it to be something in the TDR is the problem started to come around right after I had the clutch changed out last year.

 

If you don't figure it out before you get to Tampa, let me know and you can stop by my place or I can swing by yours and help you out.. I have been through the troubleshooting on this one before.. mine turned out to be the key cylinder not making contact with the key pellet.

When you're in a no-start condition, is the security light on or flashing with the key in the on/ign position? (one position before start/crank, i.e. the normal run position.)

Send me a PM when you get to town if you need to link up.

 

I havent driven the car in 6 weeks. Im not sure if Ill have time to work on the car before I drive it south, but sounds like the easiest thing to check is the starter connection.

The last thing I want to happen is while im driving south following the wife and kids, to car die on me.

 

I had the same problem and changing my starter fixed it. It was an intermittent problem that was very frusterating. It is an easy fix though.

 

Curlee tumbler thread from last week, starting to happen to a few C5's

 

Anynother concern I have is when the car was a month out, it died a couple times and the dealship replaced the starter.

Last year when I had work done to the motor, we noticed where the starter mounts to the block is cracked where the GM tech over tightened the bolt and snapped it. Im not sure if the told the original owner when the car was new, but im not sure what Ill be in for when the starter comes off.

 

Phil

I have the EXACT SAME ISSUE! Here is what I have figured out.

1- I KNOW that Theft Deterrent Relay (TDR) in my car is good. I replaced that. Didn't change anything

2- The Clutch Switch Is GOOD. If you can hear the TDR click when you push and release the clutch, thats working.

3- Heres where you need to figure out what one is your issue: The Ignition switch supplies a 12 VDC (high amperage) to the TDR through the RED wire on the TDR relay. Once the TDR is energized, the contacts inside the relay close and that 12 VDC (high amperage) signal goes to the starter solenoid via the PURPLE Wire and the starter solenoid closes some really high current contacts inside the solenoid and the starter spins.

Your either loosing the 12 VDC (high amperage) signal from the ignition switch because the ignition switch is "bad" OR the solenoid contacts inside the solenoid are bad or starter brushes are dirty/ bad.

I have a 24" piece of steel rod in my trunk that I use to bang on the starter when mine decides to fail. I use a flash light to spot the starter, slide the rod in and give it a good bump. That has fixed it when it's being really temperamental.

Sometimes I can just rotate the ignition switch from run to crank 10-12 times and it will start.

Here is a link to a post that I started on why the ignition switches fail and how to fix them. If you experience the problem and measure the voltage on the TDR red or purple wire and the voltage is ZERO volts or very low, the switch is your issue.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1951626


Everyone wondering why mines NOT fixed yet,,, ,,,

I'm doing a heads / cam / Fast90/90 install soon and I'll do it then! I have a lead on a new solenoid that will fix that issue!!!

If you need to, PM me or call me.

Bill

 

Thanks Bill,
I just talked to my wife and I should have time around the house before we drive south. Ill try a couple fixes, and see what happens. I printed out both your threads. Either way, I doubt Ill shut off the car while in route.

 

Bill, this is incorrect.

The red (high amperage) wire feeding the TDR comes straight out of a 60a fuse in the footwell fusebox and is hot at all times. It is not routed through the ignition switch at all.

If you do not see 12v at the red wire at the TDR, either that 60a fuse is out, or you have a major problem with the 12v feed to the fusebox.

The ignition switch also gets a red wire for it's 12v power source, yes, but the crank output wire from the ign switch is the yellow one that goes back into the fusebox, then comes out as a purple wire, which feeds the clutch switch (and then the yellow wire out of the clutch switch goes on to power the TDR coil).


The TDR will NOT energize if there is a bad ign switch, bad clutch switch, or the BCM is inhibiting it.

So the bottom line is once you know for sure the TDR is energizing (like in Phil's case here), the only step to take next would be to check the purple wire for 12v during an attempted start, and if it's there, either the starter is bad, or the purple wire is loose at the starter.....thatis it. Nothing more to check..
If the purple wire does NOT show 12v during an attempted start, but the red wire does...the TDR is bad. If the red wire has nothing, then as stated above, the 60 fuse is likely out (but this would not apply to an intermittent problem).

Here's the schematic to refresh your memory:

 

Yep,, I was WRONG! Sorry for the mis information. If you have a bad solenoid like I do, get a metal rod and give the starter a whack and you should be good to go.

 

A word of caution in doing that...

Yes, it often works to bang a starter motor to get it to work, but for those with headers on these cars, it can become almost impossible to see the starter from above, or between the header tubes.

Remember, the large terminal at the starter solenoid is a direct connection to the positive battery post and is live at all times.
If you can't see exactly where you're poking, there's a very good chance you could contact that starter terminal, and if your metal rod is also close, or touching ground (ie: a header tube) at the time you hit the post, you will soon be arc welding something with potentially disastrous effects - A hole burned into a thin header tube, or frying the alternator diodes would be enough to ruin anyone's day.

If you can clearly see the starter, then go for it. Just whack the body of the motor, and keep any metal object far away from the solenoid terminals.

 

Just get a length of rope and tow it behind the minivan...

Was that helpful?

 

yo kevin
actually I was thinking of towing with one of those front wheel carriers, but Im not sure if that will work !

 

I used to tow a jeep behind a motor home like that when I was racing. It worked well. Not sure how it would work on the vette. Somebody here must know.

 

Sounds like you have a fair distance to cover (Virginia to Florida) so here's a couple of thoughts ....

1) A towing dolly may not be a good idea for that long a haul ..... is your car an automatic or a manual ??

2) Depending on your tow vehicle, a better choice than a dolly ( http://www.uhaul.com/guide/index.asp...owing-towdolly ) would be a transporter ( http://www.uhaul.com/guide/index.asp...-autotransport ) ... BTW I'm using the U-Haul site not because I'm endorsing them ... just that they came up quickly on an internet search ....

Regardless of what tow mechanism you choose .... keep in mind that we have low cars and wide tires. Plan on having pieces of wood available to help with "low" issues, and watch out for "wide tire" issues.

Also keep in mind, before starting a long tow ... check out the trailer/dolly yourself. Be sure tire pressure on the TRAILER/DOLLY tires is correct .... be sure the lighting system is working off your tow vehicle (and check this at every stop) ... be sure the hitch connection and safety chains are connected properly ....

Lots to worry about ... BUT ... done right your Corvette will be safely and economically (fuel saving alone may pay for the trailer) transported to your destination. I've trailered cars several times, and if you have more to move than just a car, it is a very reasonable solution.

 

Well im sitting at Tampa international airport waiting for the rain to clear up in tampa and in DC.

Im a risk taker. Im driving the car down, and we'll see how it goes.



I figure if I dont shut the car off, Ill at least make it to bruinswick GA where we're going to spend the night

 

Leave it running and sleep in the car. Problem solved.