Front lowering problem......help!!!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: This is not a Song, It's an Outburst: Or, The Establishment Blues; Sixto Diaz Rodriguez
Front lowering problem......help!!!
"Went on and lowered the rear Saturday, three threads from the top on the bolts, I'll finish up the front on Monday, only get to drive it a couple times a week, so I'll check the GM Dealer in my area make sure they are set up for "4 wheel computer alignment," I'm sure they are, and take it from there."
Well, the front bolts are giving me the blues, they are rusted and frozen tight, sprayed lubricating/penetrating oil, but no movement yet, actually have stripped the 10mm nut on the passenger side. Going try again. You guys have any info that can help out...feel free to offer up...
Well, the front bolts are giving me the blues, they are rusted and frozen tight, sprayed lubricating/penetrating oil, but no movement yet, actually have stripped the 10mm nut on the passenger side. Going try again. You guys have any info that can help out...feel free to offer up...
Last edited by renegad44; Mar 4, 2008 at 12:11 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Not on either liberal coast.
If you have removed the front tires/wheels, look at the little recessed trough that surrounds the threads of the front bolts on top of the spring.
Spray that area liberally with PB BLASTER and allow it to work. You'll know, because the pool of liquid in the recessed trough will disappear, having penetrated the threads of the bolts/spring and started to wick down the threads below the spring.
Use a jack to take the load off the ends of the spring as recommended in past discussions.
Then take PB BLASTER and spray around the rubber bushing. Allow it to work.
Using a metal putty knife and more PB BLASTER, work the putty knife under the rubber bushing. It has probably vulcanized to the control arm.
Once you can work the putty knife under the bushing, you should be able to turn the bolt(s) by hand w/o need of a 10mm wrench. Make your adjustments.
I'd suggest you use some grease under the bushings to make future adjustments easier. Don't wipe the excess PB BLASTER off the bolt threads. This will prevent rust.
Spray that area liberally with PB BLASTER and allow it to work. You'll know, because the pool of liquid in the recessed trough will disappear, having penetrated the threads of the bolts/spring and started to wick down the threads below the spring.
Use a jack to take the load off the ends of the spring as recommended in past discussions.
Then take PB BLASTER and spray around the rubber bushing. Allow it to work.
Using a metal putty knife and more PB BLASTER, work the putty knife under the rubber bushing. It has probably vulcanized to the control arm.
Once you can work the putty knife under the bushing, you should be able to turn the bolt(s) by hand w/o need of a 10mm wrench. Make your adjustments.
I'd suggest you use some grease under the bushings to make future adjustments easier. Don't wipe the excess PB BLASTER off the bolt threads. This will prevent rust.
Last edited by hotwheels57; Mar 4, 2008 at 12:28 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: This is not a Song, It's an Outburst: Or, The Establishment Blues; Sixto Diaz Rodriguez
You too huh, I guess I should have started in the front, that way I would have known what to expect, but hell, after the rear is lowered, this is a pain. I'm trying to get a solution today, tomorrow starts a 48 hours duty shift for me, so I won't be back at it until Friday morning. If I can get a solution on parts/material today, at least I could order/buy and have it here for Friday. Good luck to you...
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: This is not a Song, It's an Outburst: Or, The Establishment Blues; Sixto Diaz Rodriguez
hotwheels57...thanks..
I've saturated with just that PB Blaster since last night, liquid seems to be still standing, will try the rest of your remedy, only other thing, each time I try jack to relieve pressure, the whole side of car jacks up off of jack stands...something I'm doing wrong. thanks a million....
I've saturated with just that PB Blaster since last night, liquid seems to be still standing, will try the rest of your remedy, only other thing, each time I try jack to relieve pressure, the whole side of car jacks up off of jack stands...something I'm doing wrong. thanks a million....
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 45
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well at least the rears only take like 2 seconds to raise back up...
the spring is going to take the weight of the car and raise the entire side once you've overcome the springs resistance per your load, so stop raising it there (raising it higher accomplishes nothing).
the spring is going to take the weight of the car and raise the entire side once you've overcome the springs resistance per your load, so stop raising it there (raising it higher accomplishes nothing).
Last edited by ProductionS14; Mar 4, 2008 at 12:47 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 45
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Weird, my 2002 has a different power steering cooler.
Looks like you stripped off the head of that bolt on the drivers (woops) side =\ ... what's the 'perfect' solution to that? What part is that bolt integral to? The control arm?
Looks like you stripped off the head of that bolt on the drivers (woops) side =\ ... what's the 'perfect' solution to that? What part is that bolt integral to? The control arm?
Last edited by ProductionS14; Mar 4, 2008 at 02:29 PM.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: This is not a Song, It's an Outburst: Or, The Establishment Blues; Sixto Diaz Rodriguez
Banned Scam/Spammer
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From: Simi Valley CA
ewww. Did you try heating up the nut and then work it back/forth? Looks like you're going to have to use some vise grips on there now.
If it were me, I'd sazaw the damn thing off and get a new bolt/nut.
If it were me, I'd sazaw the damn thing off and get a new bolt/nut.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: This is not a Song, It's an Outburst: Or, The Establishment Blues; Sixto Diaz Rodriguez
Thanks, been using vicegrips also, no luck, no torch to heat it with, so I'll have to figure something out. Lowered the back already with three threads left on each side, now stuck on the front and giving me the blues...
Looking for any solutions available...thanks....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Slave to the evil empire
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04
With the front end sitting on jack stands the spring is still pushing down on the control arm is is loaded with pressure.
Place a floor jack as close to the end of the spring as you can get, it will come up between the control arm, this will unload the pressure off of the spring.
If the front of the car raises off of the jackstand then just lower it back down until it just touches the jack stand, then do what was suggested as far as the PB blaster and putty knife.
Place a floor jack as close to the end of the spring as you can get, it will come up between the control arm, this will unload the pressure off of the spring.
If the front of the car raises off of the jackstand then just lower it back down until it just touches the jack stand, then do what was suggested as far as the PB blaster and putty knife.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,506
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From: This is not a Song, It's an Outburst: Or, The Establishment Blues; Sixto Diaz Rodriguez
With the front end sitting on jack stands the spring is still pushing down on the control arm is is loaded with pressure.
Place a floor jack as close to the end of the spring as you can get, it will come up between the control arm, this will unload the pressure off of the spring.
If the front of the car raises off of the jackstand then just lower it back down until it just touches the jack stand, then do what was suggested as far as the PB blaster and putty knife.
Place a floor jack as close to the end of the spring as you can get, it will come up between the control arm, this will unload the pressure off of the spring.
If the front of the car raises off of the jackstand then just lower it back down until it just touches the jack stand, then do what was suggested as far as the PB blaster and putty knife.
Thanks for your help..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,979
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From: Wichita KS
With the front end sitting on jack stands the spring is still pushing down on the control arm is is loaded with pressure.
Place a floor jack as close to the end of the spring as you can get, it will come up between the control arm, this will unload the pressure off of the spring.
If the front of the car raises off of the jackstand then just lower it back down until it just touches the jack stand, then do what was suggested as far as the PB blaster and putty knife.
Place a floor jack as close to the end of the spring as you can get, it will come up between the control arm, this will unload the pressure off of the spring.
If the front of the car raises off of the jackstand then just lower it back down until it just touches the jack stand, then do what was suggested as far as the PB blaster and putty knife.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: South Western Ontario
You will likely have remove the spring and use channel locks or pipe wrench on the other side of the bolt to get it out. The bolt has a washer on the end where the bushing sits that you can grab onto. You'll have to cut the chewed end off it.
West Coast Corvettes have front lowering bolts that can be used as replacements for the originals. I think maybe $25 for a set. Clean the threads out and grease them before installing.
Peter
West Coast Corvettes have front lowering bolts that can be used as replacements for the originals. I think maybe $25 for a set. Clean the threads out and grease them before installing.
Peter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 114
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From: Charlottetown Prince Edward Island
same problem!
The rubber bushings on the end of the adjustment bolts get almost "welded" to the top of the lower control arm. I ended up having to remove the spring ( do search) and then put in the west coast corvettes lowering bolts. They work great and the bushing is only 3/8" thick.
