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Any of you guys that have experience porting the FAST 90 intake, are you having issues with oil contamination affecting the porting procedure. I have proably 500-700miles on my intake, and the only guys I've talked to so far will either not port it after install, or charge a lot more. I offered to take it apart and clean it but Ron at Vengance said the oil contanimates the intake and makes it tough (Read; impossible) to port.
If it's that bad after 500 miles, I afraid it might COME APART in another couple thousand
I would not expect it to have too much trouble. For porting the fast you just need a die grinder or dremel tool with a grinding bit or sandpaper. All you want to do is take away the ledge in the intake runner by the cylinder head. They are not hard to take apart and clean yourself if you want. I used brake cleaner to clean mine a while back. Just make sure you remove all gaskets and do not put any brake cleaner on them.
Yes, have you talked to Tony? Also, be aware that the ported FAST and Dart 205's may not get along too well.
Yea; Tony ported my LS2 TB and did a great job, but had told me that the cost of porting the intake would go up substanially after the install. I didn't have the funds to do both at the time. Vengance has a good price, and I try to support the vendors, but they wouldn't even discuss porting it after finding it was installed
I hadn't heard that the ported FAST and the 205s didn't work well together. In past conversations I've had with Tony, he stated that the "minor" tweaks he made actually helped the low and mid range a lot, so I assumed they weren't "hogging" it out as much as jsut "tweaking it"
To clean the intake use a degreaser like purple power, simple green, etc, etc. I've cleaned many this way and it works well. Might have to brush some spots, but it's not that bad.
The entrance on the stock DART heads is very conservative....a properly ported FAST is about .100 wider leaving a lip thats going the wrong way (the manifold being actually larger than the port entrance by .050-.060 per side.
It will cost you part of the gains you are paying for in the first place....
The entrance on the stock DART heads is very conservative....a properly ported FAST is about .100 wider leaving a lip thats going the wrong way (the manifold being actually larger than the port entrance by .050-.060 per side.
It will cost you part of the gains you are paying for in the first place....
Tony
So unless you've ported the Darts, you won't see the same gains on them as you do some of the other heads?
The entrance on the stock DART heads is very conservative....a properly ported FAST is about .100 wider leaving a lip thats going the wrong way (the manifold being actually larger than the port entrance by .050-.060 per side.
It will cost you part of the gains you are paying for in the first place....
I've got them and LOVE them. They were low cost, so big bang for the buck. (left money for other mods) My dyno #s are right there with all the other big name heads (All else being equal) and my actual performace #s match or exceed the #s guys are posting with the high dollar heads
i installed a ported FAST last night on a 383. I bought his old FAST and will be porting it myself. its way easy. I think people dont want to port a used one as, if somethign happens, or its flawed somewhere and they trash it, they dont want to pay for it. oil makes no difference. its a 2 piece so it comes apart for easy cleaning....
yep just take the little ridges off the runners, and there are also a few spots up higher that can be smoothed. basically follow the ridge you took off about 1.5 inches up into the runner to be sure your gaining everything. its pretty simple, just keep everything in a smooth transitional cross section and be sure not to have a bottleneck and then opening up and such. only go as big as you can go further up the runner.
i installed a ported FAST last night on a 383. I bought his old FAST and will be porting it myself. its way easy. I think people dont want to port a used one as, if somethign happens, or its flawed somewhere and they trash it, they dont want to pay for it. oil makes no difference. its a 2 piece so it comes apart for easy cleaning....
The oil contamination statement was made by Ron. He told me that once installed they wouldn't port it. I told them I would clean it up, but they didn't return any more of my PMs
I am fairly comfortable porting heads. (I ported the Darts I have on now) but was told by a WELL known FAST 90 porter that removing material in the wrong area of the FAST would have a detrimental affect on it's performance.
I am fairly comfortable porting heads. (I ported the Darts I have on now) but was told by a WELL known FAST 90 porter that removing material in the wrong area of the FAST would have a detrimental affect on it's performance.
Sounds like that guy gave you good advice....(he probably advised you to port it when it was new because you were likely going to want to shortly down the road....LOL)
It's no different than an intake or exhaust port....remove material in the wrong place and your larger port will flow less air. Ive seen 240 cc intake runners flow less than our 205 cc runner....the proper shape (and taper regarding manifold runners) is far more important than size.
What about the port matching Tony? If the head was in the path of the intake runner would you EVER open the head up (like a 1/8" max) or just use epoxy in the runner to build it up? I figure epoxy, but always worry about it coming out and ending up in the head.
What about the port matching Tony? If the head was in the path of the intake runner would you EVER open the head up (like a 1/8" max) or just use epoxy in the runner to build it up? I figure epoxy, but always worry about it coming out and ending up in the head.
The answer with a Dart, stock head, or any head with a conservative port entrance would be to port and open the entrance till it more closely matched the exit of the ported FAST. For some though thats not an option assuming the head is already bolted on their engine.
I use epoxy on some of my personal stuff buts its always best to avoid it if possible. There is always a possibility of it working itself loose from the heat, fuel, oil, etc.