Lets talk Flywheels
Pro
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 565
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Bragg, NC
would balancing the fidanza flywheel with the CF DF be that much of a big deal? if the CF DF bolts right up to the OEM steel flywheel with a zero balance it would be fine right? ...now just replace that flywheel with the fidanza unit and it's the same thing... 0 balanced right?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,461
Likes: 1,166
From: Dyer, IN
Lucky....
And for others questioning whether you would "feel it".....trust me its quite noticeable and changes the personality of the car (in a good way with a lighter lower inertia set-up).
Check the comments and dyno graph in this thread....
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...084&highlight=
Enjoy....
Tony
And for others questioning whether you would "feel it".....trust me its quite noticeable and changes the personality of the car (in a good way with a lighter lower inertia set-up).
Check the comments and dyno graph in this thread....
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...084&highlight=
Enjoy....
Tony
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg SC
would balancing the fidanza flywheel with the CF DF be that much of a big deal? if the CF DF bolts right up to the OEM steel flywheel with a zero balance it would be fine right? ...now just replace that flywheel with the fidanza unit and it's the same thing... 0 balanced right?
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,518
Likes: 7
From: Valencia CA
Thanks for posting the link. Your point is well taken. I guess for me, as long as I can run 10.80s at the strip, and get 25-28 miles to the gallon on the highway in sixth gear, I'll stick with the steel flywheel. If I ever get the opportunity, I would like to drive a c5 with an aluminum flywheel just to feel the difference.
Building an optimized N/A car is certainly more challenging (for obvious reasons) and the types of gains we are discussing (from lighter, lower inertia clutch/flywheel assemblies) go a long way in helping achieve higher RWHP figures and better track times. A better driving experience as well I might add, but Im not using my car as a commuter and sitting in bumper to bumper traffic either. Its not that I couldn't, it would just make me think a little harder about my flywheel and clutch choice. Lets face it, more inertia is that much more forgiving in a constant on again off again scenario caught in traffic on the 405 freeway. You dont have to be as precise with your foot work or think about it as much.
I seriously encourage anyone local on the fence about a lighter weight assembly to swing by and we can take my Vette out for a drive.
Regards,
Tony
PS....If you dont have AFR heads yet you will be thinking real hard about that purchase after the ride.....LOL
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg SC
Nice job!.....(Boost tends to be forgiving on missing the small details....LOL)
Building an optimized N/A car is certainly more challenging (for obvious reasons) and the types of gains we are discussing (from lighter, lower inertia clutch/flywheel assemblies) go a long way in helping achieve higher RWHP figures and better track times. A better driving experience as well I might add, but Im not using my car as a commuter and sitting in bumper to bumper traffic either. Its not that I couldn't, it would just make me think a little harder about my flywheel and clutch choice. Lets face it, more inertia is that much more forgiving in a constant on again off again scenario caught in traffic on the 405 freeway. You dont have to be as precise with your foot work or think about it as much.
I seriously encourage anyone local on the fence about a lighter weight assembly to swing by and we can take my Vette out for a drive.
Regards,
Tony
PS....If you dont have AFR heads yet you will be thinking real hard about that purchase after the ride.....LOL
Building an optimized N/A car is certainly more challenging (for obvious reasons) and the types of gains we are discussing (from lighter, lower inertia clutch/flywheel assemblies) go a long way in helping achieve higher RWHP figures and better track times. A better driving experience as well I might add, but Im not using my car as a commuter and sitting in bumper to bumper traffic either. Its not that I couldn't, it would just make me think a little harder about my flywheel and clutch choice. Lets face it, more inertia is that much more forgiving in a constant on again off again scenario caught in traffic on the 405 freeway. You dont have to be as precise with your foot work or think about it as much.
I seriously encourage anyone local on the fence about a lighter weight assembly to swing by and we can take my Vette out for a drive.
Regards,
Tony
PS....If you dont have AFR heads yet you will be thinking real hard about that purchase after the ride.....LOL
Also, do I need to have the entire clutch assembly balanced if the fidanza flywheel and the centerforce clutch are seperately zero balanced?
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,518
Likes: 7
From: Valencia CA
Are you saying that the aluminum flywheel is more benefitial in naturally aspirated cars, because I am superchaged. I thought that the aluminum flywheel would benefit forced induction just as much.
Also, do I need to have the entire clutch assembly balanced if the fidanza flywheel and the centerforce clutch are seperately zero balanced?
Also, do I need to have the entire clutch assembly balanced if the fidanza flywheel and the centerforce clutch are seperately zero balanced?
I would balance them both together if it were me....better safe than sorry.
Tony
PS....Bob, put those wrenches away!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg SC
The benefit is the same....its just harder for N/A cars to find 10-15 RWHP versus a blower car where you swap pulleys and pick up twice that or more.
I would balance them both together if it were me....better safe than sorry.
Tony
PS....Bob, put those wrenches away!
I would balance them both together if it were me....better safe than sorry.
Tony
PS....Bob, put those wrenches away!
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Pro Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 397
Likes: 4
From: San Antonio, Texas
i run a LS7 clutch in my car with the GM LS7 flywheel. i did take the flywheel to a machine shop and they cut out 5.5 lbs from it. i did not notice any difference from the LS6 to the LS7 with the weight cut down.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,798
Likes: 8
From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
St. Jude Donor '13
Well I'll toss in my opinion and if I don't mention a few things maybe the Mods will leave it alone this time.
I researched for awhile before making my choices. I stayed away from the aluminums for a couple reasons. First were complaints of the outer starter ring gear coming off. Secondly there are many people right here who couldn't wait to replace the Fidanza wheel. Also complaints of warped wheels, shorter life, etc.
So what to do? The theory of light weight is sound. I opted for a Chromoly light weight wheel that is 10 pounds lighter than stock and just 4 pounds heavier than aluminum. Claimed by the seller and verified by me. Since the wheel was zero balanced, and the CF DF was balanced I went ahead and just installed it. No vibration.
The only thing I noticed is the RPM's drop off faster between shifts and it revs faster in neutral. Other than that there is nothing noticeable. No acceleration gains that I could feel. The other deciding factor was no down time while I would have had to get the factory wheel surfaced.
To me the $180. I spent was worth it knowing I lost 10 pounds and the wheel is new.
I researched for awhile before making my choices. I stayed away from the aluminums for a couple reasons. First were complaints of the outer starter ring gear coming off. Secondly there are many people right here who couldn't wait to replace the Fidanza wheel. Also complaints of warped wheels, shorter life, etc.
So what to do? The theory of light weight is sound. I opted for a Chromoly light weight wheel that is 10 pounds lighter than stock and just 4 pounds heavier than aluminum. Claimed by the seller and verified by me. Since the wheel was zero balanced, and the CF DF was balanced I went ahead and just installed it. No vibration.
The only thing I noticed is the RPM's drop off faster between shifts and it revs faster in neutral. Other than that there is nothing noticeable. No acceleration gains that I could feel. The other deciding factor was no down time while I would have had to get the factory wheel surfaced.
To me the $180. I spent was worth it knowing I lost 10 pounds and the wheel is new.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg SC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg SC
Well I'll toss in my opinion and if I don't mention a few things maybe the Mods will leave it alone this time.
I researched for awhile before making my choices. I stayed away from the aluminums for a couple reasons. First were complaints of the outer starter ring gear coming off. Secondly there are many people right here who couldn't wait to replace the Fidanza wheel. Also complaints of warped wheels, shorter life, etc.
So what to do? The theory of light weight is sound. I opted for a Chromoly light weight wheel that is 10 pounds lighter than stock and just 4 pounds heavier than aluminum. Claimed by the seller and verified by me. Since the wheel was zero balanced, and the CF DF was balanced I went ahead and just installed it. No vibration.
The only thing I noticed is the RPM's drop off faster between shifts and it revs faster in neutral. Other than that there is nothing noticeable. No acceleration gains that I could feel. The other deciding factor was no down time while I would have had to get the factory wheel surfaced.
To me the $180. I spent was worth it knowing I lost 10 pounds and the wheel is new.
I researched for awhile before making my choices. I stayed away from the aluminums for a couple reasons. First were complaints of the outer starter ring gear coming off. Secondly there are many people right here who couldn't wait to replace the Fidanza wheel. Also complaints of warped wheels, shorter life, etc.
So what to do? The theory of light weight is sound. I opted for a Chromoly light weight wheel that is 10 pounds lighter than stock and just 4 pounds heavier than aluminum. Claimed by the seller and verified by me. Since the wheel was zero balanced, and the CF DF was balanced I went ahead and just installed it. No vibration.
The only thing I noticed is the RPM's drop off faster between shifts and it revs faster in neutral. Other than that there is nothing noticeable. No acceleration gains that I could feel. The other deciding factor was no down time while I would have had to get the factory wheel surfaced.
To me the $180. I spent was worth it knowing I lost 10 pounds and the wheel is new.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: Parma OH
I am leaning towards the DF and the LS1 Fidanza flywheel. I have seen there is a 11" and a 12" clutch. Can I use either one with the flywheel (do you have to mod anything to use the larger one)? I'm thinking 11" is probably fine, as I am not going to go too insane with the car.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg SC
I am leaning towards the DF and the LS1 Fidanza flywheel. I have seen there is a 11" and a 12" clutch. Can I use either one with the flywheel (do you have to mod anything to use the larger one)? I'm thinking 11" is probably fine, as I am not going to go too insane with the car.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg SC
I would say around 5-7 rwhp, but the car revs much quicker so acceleration seems to improve.