I have a 98 Torch Red Convertable (6 speed manual) with 126000 miles on it. It is my daily driver but also periodically use it as a long trip car as well. I am wondering what non prescribed mainenance (I do all my own) I need to perform at this range of millage so that it does not strand me a long way from home. Now I am a firm believer in "if aint broke don't fix it" so I do not want to go fishing for problems. However, for example, at what point should I expect the hydraulic actuation of the hydraulic clutch to fail? Are there any warning signs that offer a clue? Since the front wheel bearings are sealed, is there a reasonable limit to their life before they start failing? Is there any predictability in function with the electronic fuel injection such as pump life? Do any of the electronic modules exhibit surprising terminal or erratic behavior after 100K miles? If anyone has some thoughts, guidelines, or sources for higher millage failure projections I would sure like to hear them.

 

Water pump and harmonic balancer replacement?

Spark plugs & wires?

Alternator bearings?

 

I too have a 98 6spd and have 123K miles on mine. It was retired from daily driving duty in 2004.

I had to replace the water pump at 98K miles, right after a changing out the dex-cool antifreeze, and replaced all hoses and belts. At 108K my harmonic balancer failed. If you have a pronounced wobble in the balancer and/or the belts squeak badly I would have it looked at closely. When I replaced the balancer I installed a new cam in the car and replaced the following: new timing chain, new oil pump, new valve seals, new valve springs, new spring retainers, new valve locks and new pushrods. I also installed new plug wires as I broke several when I removed them.

So at a minimum I would go ahead and replace the following:
1. Anti-freeze flush
2. New lubricants for the tranny and differential
3. New belts if not changed recently
4. New coolant hoses if not changed recently
5. New spark plug wires
6. Check the axle boots on the rear c/v joints
7. Replace the shocks - you will be amazed at how much that makes a difference in the ride.


You shouldn't have to replace the hydraulic slave on the clutch until you have to replace the clutch. If you have 126K miles on original clutch I am amazed but I would budget having to replace it sooner than later. At that time I would replace the clutch master, slave and pilot bearng. I would get a slave with a remote bleeder as it is much easier to keep clean fluid in the system with one.

I would have the braker rotors mic'd to check thickness and replace if they have become too thin.

I would also check and clean all chassis grounds on the electrical system. I am in need of this service myself as I have a few electrical gremlins plagueing me now.

I would check all the bushings for in the upper and lower control arms, ball joints, sway bars for excessive play and cracking.

I would check also the rubber bushings the transverse springs rest on in the sub frames and see if the spring is contacting the metal supports.

I could go on and on. These cars are now 10yrs old there really is a lot of stuff to wear out.

 

160,xxx miles on my baby, and the one thing I've learned is that the car will tell you when something starts down the failure path.

Bearings (whether wheel or pulley) will get noisy before they start losing their load-bearing ability, handling and ride quality will head south when shocks are going out, etc. Spark plugs will start mis-firing when you need to change them out.

If your brakes operate smoothly, leave the rotors alone. I've been autocrossing with mine since I got the car in '02 and I'm still on the original clutch.

As you already know, regular filter and fluid changes will pay big dividends in longevity. One fluid in particular to be concerned about is brake fluid; it needs to be changed out about every 2 years to keep water-saturated fluid from corroding the interior of the brake system.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

 

I agree with everyone here and their thoughts on the individual areas. I'll add my own two-cents worth for you...if something goes bad or as already noted, gives you a warning, fix it then. Don't wait for something to fail totally that could have been prevented, if you knew there was an issue. Yeah, I'm the one with 307K miles at this moment. I just spent over $1800 on a new differential due to a strange noise. At this instant, I'm contemplating jumping into it and driving it 11 hours from S. Calif. to Albuquerque tomorrow. Even with all these miles, I know I can jump in and go whenever I wish.

 

I've heard that the pushrod rockers pivot on needle bearings; is this a must-change item after so many miles?

 

Yes the rockers do have needle bearings. I've heard of them failing before but think that was in the case of cars on the track and in more extreme conditions. Rockers are easy to change. Mine never failed although I did replace them when I had a lifter failure.