1. Pretty sure on this but just checking... got all 5 bolts to release the torque tube from the bell housing and just wanted to make sure there's not a 6th one up there on the top... felt around and didn't feel or see anything.

2. Does the shifter have to be unbolted? Is it bolted into the frame or into a bracket on the torque tube?

3. Haven't started with the rear end yet... do the brake lines need to be unhooked? What's the easiest route to go about removing the rear?

Got only a few hours to work on it and will finish up tomorrow and hopefully/possibly complete it. Have the X-pipe removed, tunnel plate removed, bottom bellhousing, front torque tube bolts... and now on to the rear

 

Hi RrCoX22 -

Nope - only 5 bolts.

Yes - you must remove the shifter.

The brake lines are held onto the rear suspension cradle by two plastic clips (on each side) that mount in holes with a barbed fastener.

You can pry them up enough to free the brake lines and not break the fastener....but you'll probably break at least one lol.....

There are also a few wiring harness gathers that you just clip open with a screw driver.

I urge you to get a gm service manual or seek out Dope's install how-to write up before you go too far - it will save you some time and effort.

best regards -

mqqn

 

Yes, there are 5 bolts holding the torque tube to the bell housing.

The console needs to be removed, then remove the shifter pinch bolt, then remove the 2 bolts that holds shifter assy to the torque tube (don't remove the 4 bolts that hold the shifter to the base), and remove the shifter.

Disconnect the 2 brake lines at the unions above rear axle. Have a couple of rubber vacuum plugs on hand to cap the brake lines. It is a lot easier than removing the plastic brake line retainers (that usually break). Unbolt the upper A-arms from the frame rail, and remove the flex hose to frame retainer bolts. Then pop the axles out of the differential with a pry bar.

Remove the exhaust pipes, and tie up the muffler pipes to a gas tank heat shield bolt. After removing the driveline closeout panel, disconnect the clutch line by sliding the sleeve with 2 pairs of pliers. Then remove the 2 differential mount to cradle nuts. Now support & jack up the driveline (position the jack just ahead of the trans drain plug). Then you will need another jack (or 2 helpers) to support the rear cradle. Then using hand tools only, remove the 4 nuts & lower the cradle out of the car.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the trans & diff, then lower the jack while prying the torque tube from the bell housing. Make sure to have a helper or two while removing the driveline.

Russ Kemp

 

Be careful and take your time. While I was lowering the rear, it fell off the jack. It broke the brake line clips in the tunnel and the intake was actually touching the cowl. Doesn't look like there was any damage, but there could have been.

 

Use a putty knife to protect the brake lines when lowering from catching on the shifter bracket. I pushed the brake line clips out from the saddle and just left the brake lines in the clip, no breakage. Make sure you unhook the main cable from the torque tube and the transmission.

 

ok the torque tube won't seperate from the bell housing area... i drop the rear end/tranny all the way down and nothing budged... what is on the end of the torque tube that seperate? the slave? what do i have to pry?

 

I just pulled back on the rear subframe and it came apart. Make sure everything including the harness on top of the TT is loose. Also, be sure the Slave cylinder hose is disconnected as well.

 

ya got it out with ease... only pulled it back about 6 inches is that a just let it rest on the bottom bellhousing plate... there's no need at all to pull everything all the way out... i never even touched any brake lines for any harness on the tranny or anywhere else... half of dope's writeup is useless and not needed.

 

How are planning on removing the rear cradle without disconnecting the brake lines?

Russ Kemp

 

Hope you did not break the or crack the firewall in the engine compartment as it is made out of SMC.

 

Dope's write-up is very good. You need to disconnect (pop off) the retainers for the brake lines on the rear cradle and a bunch of electrical connectors.

I've done this a few time now.

 

What do you mean you dropped the rear end all the way down?? You can only drop it down safely to a certain level, which by no accident is the first warning in the service manual....................which you obviously don't have. This has disaster written all over it....................

 

I find it much easier to disconnect the 2 brake lines at the unions above the rear axle, then remove the flex hose retainer bolts.
Then drop the rear cross member with the brake lines still attached to the cross member.

Russ Kemp

 

I'm not sure how you can pull the torque tube back 6" without removing a lot of stuff you haven't removed. Is the engine supported on a jack?

 

Why would you remove the brake lines ?

 

his write up is alright but in no means some of the steps are neccessary at all... never even touched/disconnectd the brake lines at all and they still have plenty of give with the cradle lying on the ground and the car jacked at least 2" in the air

yes the crandle and torque tube are lying on the ground, pretty simple... and ya no service manual here... no disaster here, everything is going perfectly smooth... please don't judge

 

Yeah, perfectly smooth, provided your computer doesn't crash....

 

I disconnect the brake lines at the unions at the bottom of your pic. Then the brake lines stay with the cross member. Plus the retainers aren't disturbed/broken, and the brake lines are totally out of the way.


Russ Kemp

 

huh? can I not be on my computer? ...havin a bad day?

 

So your not planning on replacing the pilot bearing or slave cylinder?