It's not difficult, just need to wire in a small valued resistor and put the switch in your cockpit, probably hidden in the ash tray. I would take some pictures of mine, but I don't have my car here and it isn't much to see anyway.

99 C5 M6

It's not difficult, just need to wire in a small valued resistor and put the switch in your cockpit, probably hidden in the ash tray. I would take some pictures of mine, but I don't have my car here and it isn't much to see anyway.

99 C5 M6
akw408, do you take the IAT out of the circuit and install the 750ohm resistor between the black and brown wires, or do you "add" the value of the resistor to the existing circuit? another words, is the resistor in series with the IAT circuit, or separate as to take its place when you want to take timing out? the Cartek Tip is not very clear on this. i have a 2001 with the 5 wire MAF. 2 of the wires are for the IAT. all i need to know is how to place the resistor in the circuit. also, is it worth only ~3 degrees? that's not a whole lot. i'm looking to remove about 8-10 degrees for my 200 shot.


[Modified by rwj383, 12:54 AM 12/10/2001]

Would it not be the same to change the output frequency from the MAF ?

If you have a MAF-translator it should be easy to change the setting to fool the PCM that more air is coming in than it realy is when running nitrous. This would cause the PCM to inject more fuel and you would get rid of the lean KR condition. Am I right/wrong ?? :confused:

Would it not be the same to change the output frequency from the MAF ?
If you have a MAF-translator it should be easy to change the setting to fool the PCM that more air is coming in than it realy is when running nitrous. This would cause the PCM to inject more fuel and you would get rid of the lean KR condition. Am I right/wrong ??

It's not difficult, just need to wire in a small valued resistor and put the switch in your cockpit, probably hidden in the ash tray. I would take some pictures of mine, but I don't have my car here and it isn't much to see anyway.

99 C5 M6
akw408, do you take the IAT out of the circuit and install the 750ohm resistor between the black and brown wires, or do you "add" the value of the resistor to the existing circuit? another words, is the resistor in series with the IAT circuit, or separate as to take its place when you want to take timing out? the Cartek Tip is not very clear on this. i have a 2001 with the 5 wire MAF. 2 of the wires are for the IAT. all i need to know is how to place the resistor in the circuit. also, is it worth only ~3 degrees? that's not a whole lot. i'm looking to remove about 8-10 degrees for my 200 shot.


[Modified by rwj383, 12:54 AM 12/10/2001]

I wired the resistor in parallel to the IAT, definately not in series since that would not reduce the resistance across the total circuit. I have a 99, so the IAT is actually a separate entity from the MAF. But yes, basically I shunted a resistor and a switch to the two wires going to the IAT. If you had a double pole switch, you could actually switch off the IAT completely, but I didn't see it as necessary. As for the amount of timing it took off, I admit I never really checked. I do know that after switching in a 900ohm resistor, the temperature read by the IAT was over 110 degrees F.

C5Noir, did that description help a little bit? If not, I can draw a picture of this, kind of lazy right now and I'm not the greatest paintbrush user. When I get to the office, I can use a schematic capture tool to draw a little better diagram, but it is actually so simple you will laugh.

99 C5 M6

so, less resistance=higher temps?? if so, and if you get 110F with the 900ohm resistor, then Cartek's suggestion of a 750ohm resistor would pull even more timing out.

so, less resistance=higher temps?? if so, and if you get 110F with the 900ohm resistor, then Cartek's suggestion of a 750ohm resistor would pull even more timing out.

Yes, that's right. If you take out the IAT sensor and hook it up to a ohm meter (or any digital multimeter), you can breath on it and see the resistance drop. I didn't have any 750 ohm resistors available, so I just used a 2.2kohm and 1.5kohm in parallel. After some more experimenting, we should find out how much timing gets pulled out at each temperature range and tune from there. When I get my car back, I'll take a closer look at the timing when I switch on the resistor. If 900 ohms isn't enough timing, I'll try wiring in another resistor in parallel, probably take me 2 minutes. I'm just not sure if more timing will be pulled with less resistance. Another thing you need to note is that the PCM will lean the car out a bit because it thinks the temperature is 110 degrees.

99 C5 M6