Best model year Z to modify?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,966
Likes: 73
From: Myrtle Beach, SC
Best model year Z to modify?
Which model year Z06 is the best (read: easiest and most cost effective) to modify with go fast (and stop fast) parts. Not looking for ultra high HP but rather 500-550ish RWHP. Things like headers, catback, cold air intake, head/cam, SC and possibly nitrous come to mind, but looking for more than just cost/HP responses if appropriate.
I believe there were changes in the fuel system from 2001-2004 and I know 2004 had changes to the suspension, but my searches on the forum did not give me all the answers I was looking for so I thought I would throw out a general question to all.
The car would be about 50/50 daily driver as I have a truck that I would likely use for commute part of the time and for short trips around town to keep some miles off the Z.
Mods, I wasn't sure if this question was best for FI section or tech so I submitted to both. Please feel free to delete whichever is appropriate.
I believe there were changes in the fuel system from 2001-2004 and I know 2004 had changes to the suspension, but my searches on the forum did not give me all the answers I was looking for so I thought I would throw out a general question to all.
The car would be about 50/50 daily driver as I have a truck that I would likely use for commute part of the time and for short trips around town to keep some miles off the Z.
Mods, I wasn't sure if this question was best for FI section or tech so I submitted to both. Please feel free to delete whichever is appropriate.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,050
Likes: 7
From: Canadian Rockies
I'd stick with an 02+ myself.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,282
Likes: 23
From: MD
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,701
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From: Heath Texas
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
With all that you are looking to replace I would start with a FRC. The only real mods on the list that don't make a Z a Z are suspension and brakes (and a litte weight). The brakes are easy, the only expensive thing left to upgrade on the FRC is suspension.
The answer to your question doesn't have an easy answer. We need more information. What do you want out of your car? Are you ever going to track it? If so, what kind of track?
If you really want a Z, then get the newest year you can afford. No year really has a leg up on the others (well, short legs maybe, but of no consequence). As for the '04, if you are going to add H/C or FI, then you will need bigger injectors anyway (as well as springs, push rods, timing chain, etc.)
So get a FRC if you are changing everything or the newest Z you can afford if it must be a Z.
And fill in your profile
.
Speed
The answer to your question doesn't have an easy answer. We need more information. What do you want out of your car? Are you ever going to track it? If so, what kind of track?
If you really want a Z, then get the newest year you can afford. No year really has a leg up on the others (well, short legs maybe, but of no consequence). As for the '04, if you are going to add H/C or FI, then you will need bigger injectors anyway (as well as springs, push rods, timing chain, etc.)
So get a FRC if you are changing everything or the newest Z you can afford if it must be a Z.
And fill in your profile
.Speed
Last edited by Speeed-Racer; Mar 23, 2008 at 10:02 AM.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
From: Austin TX
Forgot about that, that is true. However excessive doesn't mean it's "BAD" and I think I could afford to top her off with oil once in 3k miles in exchange for a few grand of savings.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 1
From: Chandler AZ
Don't forget the glass is lighter on a Z 06 and not on FRC. I vote for a 2002 or 2003. There was some subtle changes between the two, such as different computer programing and revised lower control arm bushing changes. The old ones would slip out on earlier models over time.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,050
Likes: 7
From: Canadian Rockies
With the difference in price between FRC's and Z06's becoming smaller each month, I'd go with a Z06 myself.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 1
From: Chandler AZ
Very good point. The gears are cut at a different angle for strength in a M12 over the easier to shift MM6
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,701
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From: Heath Texas
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
With that level of hp you will need an aftermarket clutch, but the more aggressively geared rear end would be an advantage (even though it has the same final).
Speed
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 3,452
Likes: 3
From: Spring, TX
Actually the M12 has a lower torque rating than the MN6. The only part of the Z06 driveline that is stronger vs. a standard MN6 equipped car is that the 3.42 Rear diff has shot peened gears.
All cars went to the stronger torque tube construction at the same time.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 481
Likes: 26
From: Edmond Oklahoma
Proof nobody can seem to find the differences anywhere.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
From: edmonton ab
If you are going to do all that why bother using a Z? All the same parts bolt onto a coupe, including the suspension goodies. My current C5 Vert and my previous C5 coupe both had the suspensions upgraded by the previous owners. The best mods are the ones someone else has paid for
Last edited by nuck; Mar 26, 2008 at 03:09 PM.