Daytime running light problem ALREADY SEARCHED
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: yorktown virginia
Daytime running light problem ALREADY SEARCHED
WELL ive been delving through tons and tons of electrical threads and similar situations and im thoroughly frustrated now.. My DRLs and front turn signals dont work.
If i hit the hazard switch, it clicks on, but only the rear lights work
I dont have any blown fuses
My ground up front aft of the passenger side headlight has been cleaned and dielectric greased.
the battery is a new battery
OTHER NOTES:
On cold start i see typically 13.5 V on the DIC when shes warm i only get 12.5 to 13 V. ive never seen any voltage higher than that other than when i had to replace the alternator and at that time i saw 15.8 V. anyways..
The whole time ive owned this car the DRLs have never worked properly other than after a rainstorm. i just replaced the turn signal housings because they were both melted from heat and were letting moisture in.
The sockets for the DRLS/turn signals were badly corroded so I used brake parts cleaner AND electric parts cleaner and now it doesnt look corroded/rusted but looks like there are calcium deposits on them.
anyway im pulling my hair out... my state inspection expired last month and i dont feel like getting a 90 dollar ticket because of stupid electical gremlins.. blahhhh... anyone in the va area wanna lend a hand??
If i hit the hazard switch, it clicks on, but only the rear lights work
I dont have any blown fuses
My ground up front aft of the passenger side headlight has been cleaned and dielectric greased.
the battery is a new battery
OTHER NOTES:
On cold start i see typically 13.5 V on the DIC when shes warm i only get 12.5 to 13 V. ive never seen any voltage higher than that other than when i had to replace the alternator and at that time i saw 15.8 V. anyways..
The whole time ive owned this car the DRLs have never worked properly other than after a rainstorm. i just replaced the turn signal housings because they were both melted from heat and were letting moisture in.
The sockets for the DRLS/turn signals were badly corroded so I used brake parts cleaner AND electric parts cleaner and now it doesnt look corroded/rusted but looks like there are calcium deposits on them.
anyway im pulling my hair out... my state inspection expired last month and i dont feel like getting a 90 dollar ticket because of stupid electical gremlins.. blahhhh... anyone in the va area wanna lend a hand??
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,869
Likes: 252
From: Hillsboro OR
Well, first wet your fingers... j/k 
Do your back-up lights work? If not, check fuse 2 in the fuse box under the hood. It controls the power to the DRL's and the back-up lights. You can also visually inspect the ground splice packs SP100 and SP102. Beyond this you will need a voltmeter or test light.
Cheers
Do your back-up lights work? If not, check fuse 2 in the fuse box under the hood. It controls the power to the DRL's and the back-up lights. You can also visually inspect the ground splice packs SP100 and SP102. Beyond this you will need a voltmeter or test light.
Cheers
