Battery Relocation: How to?????
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 3,452
Likes: 3
From: Spring, TX
Battery Relocation: How to?????
Does anyone have a how to written up for relocating the battery on a C5 to the center compartment in the rear? I am currently having starting problems and have diagnosed the problem as a bad battery cable. I am going to replace them both.
This will also allow me to either put in a dry sump tank or accusump tank in the battery space at a future date.
This will also allow me to either put in a dry sump tank or accusump tank in the battery space at a future date.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 7,370
Likes: 8
From: Slave to the evil empire
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04
I'm not sure if you've seen but Lingenfelter has what looks like a very nice kit for this. A friend of mine wants me to install an LS-7 in his 01 Z06 so I've been shopping around for info. 
http://www.lingenfelter.com/store/l450020197.html
http://www.lingenfelter.com/store/l450020197.html
Racer
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 377
Likes: 2
From: Palm Beach Gardens FL
This seems like a good idea, does the battery go in the middle compartment or on the right side? Figure a battery weighs 40 lbs I wonder if it was removed from the right side front of the car and installed in the middle rear would the weight distribution from left to right be screwed up?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 833
Likes: 2
From: Boca FL
I put a Blue top Optima in the right side hole. Bought arc welding cable from the welding supplier cheap and run it in the rocker to the back and over the rear wheel well and into the compartment; used hi-end stereo battery clamps from the cable to the battery post. Works great, never put in any hold-downs, battery fits tight. Still have the battery up front, running big amps for the stereo.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Be careful using regular welding cable, it's usually only a thin rubber sheath covering the copper strands. It's very apt to crack with heat from the exhaust, road and ambient temperatures. If you chose to use the welding cable, inspect it often to avoid a melt down.
I did the same thing on a modified tri five Chevy, only to find it was already degrading in a years time.
I found a guy on EBAY who sold mil-spec thick silicone sheathed and multiple strand tinned 00 copper cable for a good price. It was expensive per foot price, but so was frame off show quality '57 150 sedan.
Since the tinned strands were thinner and more of them than welding cable, it was very flexible. If it's good enough for the US military, it's good enough for me.
Automotive stereo shops sell similar silicone sheathed battery cable as well.
I did the same thing on a modified tri five Chevy, only to find it was already degrading in a years time.
I found a guy on EBAY who sold mil-spec thick silicone sheathed and multiple strand tinned 00 copper cable for a good price. It was expensive per foot price, but so was frame off show quality '57 150 sedan.
Since the tinned strands were thinner and more of them than welding cable, it was very flexible. If it's good enough for the US military, it's good enough for me.
Automotive stereo shops sell similar silicone sheathed battery cable as well.
Last edited by hotwheels57; Apr 3, 2008 at 06:22 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
I don't know who you're asking the question of...if me, I did it both ways on the same car.
With the original welding cable, I ran both positive and negative wire to the front from the trunk mounted battery.
With the mil-spec wire, I ran just the positive to the front and the ground to a welded on stud in the full length frame. I'm not so sure you could do that with a Corvette (?).
As long as there was sufficient grounds everywhere and the gauge size large enough, there was no difference in electrical performance.
I had redundant grounds on both sides of the car with the same mil-spec wire, plus a battery disconnect switch and red top OPTIMA in the trunk. The gear reduction starter would spin over about 1-2 turns before the 10:1 crate motor would fire.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 833
Likes: 2
From: Boca FL
Be careful using regular welding cable, it's usually only a thin rubber sheath covering the copper strands. It's very apt to crack with heat from the exhaust, road and ambient temperatures. If you chose to use the welding cable, inspect it often to avoid a melt down.
I did the same thing on a modified tri five Chevy, only to find it was already degrading in a years time.
I found a guy on EBAY who sold mil-spec thick silicone sheathed and multiple strand tinned 00 copper cable for a good price. It was expensive per foot price, but so was frame off show quality '57 150 sedan.
Since the tinned strands were thinner and more of them than welding cable, it was very flexible. If it's good enough for the US military, it's good enough for me.
Automotive stereo shops sell similar silicone sheathed battery cable as well.
I did the same thing on a modified tri five Chevy, only to find it was already degrading in a years time.
I found a guy on EBAY who sold mil-spec thick silicone sheathed and multiple strand tinned 00 copper cable for a good price. It was expensive per foot price, but so was frame off show quality '57 150 sedan.
Since the tinned strands were thinner and more of them than welding cable, it was very flexible. If it's good enough for the US military, it's good enough for me.
Automotive stereo shops sell similar silicone sheathed battery cable as well.
Not sure what arc welding cable you used, but the stuff I found is more durable and flexible than any other cable I've seen. Welding cable takes quite a beating through its life with a welder. I'll bet that cable sees more heat and amperage go through it on a daily basis with a welder than the car will ever give it. Since I used two batteries I had the neg bolted to the frame in back with the front staying the same.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Not sure what arc welding cable you used, but the stuff I found is more durable and flexible than any other cable I've seen. Welding cable takes quite a beating through its life with a welder. I'll bet that cable sees more heat and amperage go through it on a daily basis with a welder than the car will ever give it. Since I used two batteries I had the neg bolted to the frame in back with the front staying the same.
I just wanted to warn (whomever) what I discovered in my experience. I know of one other tri five Chevy owner who nearly lost his car due to the degradation of welding cable.
As I said, inspect it regularly would be my suggestion if you elect to use it. I consulted with two "electrical gurus" of the street rod electrical after market industry...Mark Harmon of MAD ELECTRICAL and RON FRANCIS of RON FRANCIS WIRING. Both warned me against using welding cable, but I did it anyway.
It's your car to do with as you please.
