OK, the SWPS is located at the base of the steering column inside the vehicle (see pictures in previously mentioned thread). There is a connector with 4 wires attached to it.

Disconnect the connector from the SWPS.

There are 4 wires ...... LIGHT GREEN is Signal Side A and LIGHT BLUE is Signal Side B. The GREY is a 5 volt reference signal (power source) and the ORANGE/BLACK is the "ground" wire.

First thing to do is test between the GREY and ORANGE/BLACK wires (pins 1 and 2) at the connecter, and make sure you have a steady 5 volt power supply. Watch it for a minute or more ... if the power being "supplied" to the SWPS is fluctuating then the power is the problem .... not the SWPS.

Once you feel that the power supplied is good, we'll have to do a bit of "wiring" .......

CAREFULLY connect two wires between the connector that is unplugged and the SWPS. We want to provide power to the SWPS. So we need to connect the GREY and ORANGE/BLACK wires to their respective pins on the SWPS. GREY is Pin1 and O/B is Pin 2.

Now we take our DMM leads and place one lead in Pin position 5 on the SWPS and the other lead to pin5 od the connector. We should see a steady voltage of somewhere between 0 and 5 volts. As we move the steering wheel we should see that voltage either rise or drop SMOOTHLY as the wheel turns. Also, with the wheel unmoving, the voltage should stay steady for several minutes .... if it is jumping around .... the SWPS is the problem. Once we've completed that test, we need to test Pin 6 the same way, looking for the same issues .... a fluctuating voltage while the wheel stays steady being bad, or a non-linear change in voltage as you move the wheel.

OK, class dismissed .....

Hope the above makes sense ......



Heere's what we're looking for. Take your

 

Well the testing and the SWPS replacement procedure seems pretty straightforward. (no worse than the right HVAC actuator). A relaxed afternoon should do it (plus a couple of beers).

Do you think the swps will test faulty before it starts to throw codes?

Thanks Stephen. You da man!

 

The problem is this ... if the SWPS "fails" the test ... then all is easy ... just replace it. The problem is if it "passes" ... is it because the problem is intermittent and you just didn't happen to catch it when it was issuing bad data ... or is it another problem ... like a bad yaw sensor ????

To be fair to mechanics, intermittent problems, especially electrical ones, can be a PITA to pin down. Patience is a virtue when it comes to finding them ..... sometimes to the point where you just have to let the problem go from "happens sometimes" to "it will happen within the next X minutes" or even to the point of "it has failed".

If you're up for it, the test of the SWPS won't hurt it in any way, so other than time, there is no "cost" to the test. The good news is there is a chance (especially as you said earlier that the AH message was appearing "frequently") you can pinpoint the problem. If nothing else, I'd say the test is worth a six-pack on a lazy afternoon .....

 

You know for a $50 part and a couple of hours labor, maybe I'll just replace the swps, in as much as the testing may be inconclusive.

I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

Scott

 

Well I finally got a DTC code:

RTD U1000h

Guess that means I lost com with the F55 shock system momentarily. Would that give me my active handling problems?

 

well it finally gave me a SWPS error, replaced it and all is well.

Thanks again guys!

 

I have a 2001 6 Speed Convertible. New Tires 6 months ago. Low pressure indicator indicated wrong tire low. Probably crossed up at tire store during install. Warming Up Indicator ocassionally on in Slippery Steep Parking Garage. Today I replaced disc pads on all 4 and turned rotors. After that Traction Control Activates on slightest acceleration. I would appreciate any ideas on this one.

 

What pressure are you running on your tires????? Did you re-program your tire pressure sensors?? Recommended!!!!!!!!!

Read and post ALL your DTCs..

Do you see any messages in the DIC when you crank , start, run and drive the car??

BC

 

You will probably need to start a new thread as this one most likely will be locked.(2008 OP Date)

 

Hi Bill,

I run 34 psi in tires. When I had tires replaced over 6 months ago they did nor replace sensors nor reprogram to the best of my knowledge. I have not had any issues until yesterday after my friend and I replaced fornt and rear pads and turned rotors. Now when I accelerate Traction Control Activates. I took the car to Corvettes West in Sarasota Florida and Keith ran Codes and found nothing. When I Turn Key in "On" position or crank everthing is normal. Keith suggested that perhaps I need to "Gravity Bleed" the brakes. He said problem could have resulted from compressing pistons. Everything I am reading points to the Wheel Speed Sensors in the Hubs or the Wheel Speed Sensor Connectors. Does that make sense to you? I never had ann issue before the Brake Job. I have owned my 2001 Vert for 4.5 years and this is puzzling??? Thanks for your help.
Tim

 

Tim

When you see the MESSAGES pop up,,, IMMEDIATELY read the DTCs "WITHOUT TURNING THE IGNITION OFF". Just press reset until all the messages are gone and then read the DTCs. I read mine all the time while driving down the road. Just don't become distracted and wreck! You can pull over to the side and read them is it makes it easier.

See if you have any DTCs using that procedure.. My guess is that you will.

You are using the Built in DIC DTC reader ,,CORRECT?????



Bill

 

Bill,

Thanks for your reply. just to make sure I am clear, while Driving when Traction System Acitive Appears hit Reset Button to read messages?
Thanks
Tim

 

NOPE!! The RESET button "CLEARS" the DIC messages so you can pull up the DTCs. Once there cleared,,, you can then read the DTCs. Just DO NOT turn the ignition OFF before you read the DTCs...

Heres the procedure that Im talking about:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

Bill,
Thanks again. The only code that is showing up is a A6 SCM B2605 H
That tells me Front Seat Verticle Position Sensor History. I have been driving the car this morning and not getting any other codes specifcally anthing to do with 28TCS. Yesterday I did switch left rear rim and tire to right rear and vice versa because of low pressure reading was reading wrong tire. Tires are symetrical not directional so I think i am O.K. there. It seems very coincidental trhat this is happing after brake Job. Since I am not getting any codes related to TCS I am thinking I must have done something wtih the Wheel Speed Sensor or Connections that is causing the Traction Control to Activate. Your thoughts? Also thanks for the Good Advise on the Service Manual, I will buy one.

 

I was experencing a very simuler problem. Problem was diag as a problem in the steering wheel sensor. Replaced and now no problems for over six weeks.

 

Well,,, Are you POSITIVE that you don't have the front wheels on the rear and rear on the front???????

If not,, YEP,, you could very well have a Steering Wheel Position Sensor problem.

Hows your alignment. Is the steering wheel dead nuts centered when you driving straight down a level flat straight surface??? If not,, that can cause the same issues.

BC

 

Hello Jackie Ray,
Was your problem with the Traction Control System Activating when depressing Accelerator? Did you have any Codes saing it was your Steering Wheel Sensor?

Thamnks,
Tim

 

[QUOTE=Bill Curlee;1579199604]Well,,, Are you POSITIVE that you don't have the front wheels on the rear and rear on the front???????

If not,, YEP,, you could very well have a Steering Wheel Position Sensor problem.

Hows your alignment. Is the steering wheel dead nuts centered when you driving straight down a level flat straight surface??? If not,, that can cause the same issues.

BC
Hello again Bill. I am positive as front and rears are different sizes. Steering Wheel is "Dead Nuts" a on level flat service. I just jacked her up and checked wheel speed sensor connnectors on all 4 and they connected. I didn't take them apart though. Kind of Weird. Still No Codes.

 

Yes that was a part of the problem.
Good luck.

 

I can't get that link to work. Help?