Well Bill Curlee (the man) was helping me sort out some electrical woes on my c5. but hes gone MIA the last few days so i was hoping someone else might be able to help... my daytime running lights / front turn signals arent working properly.

THEY DONT COME ON! when the key is in the "on" position they dont light up. when the hazards are on, they still dont come on. Ive already checked all the fuses and they are fine.

Here is the weird part:
-When I turn on my parking lights, the DRLs/turnsignals light up, but still dont function (flash). and they are slightly dimmer than i remember. I took a voltage reading at the socket for the DRL/turn signal and i got - 10.3 V yes NEGATIVE 10.3 volts. im not sure what that means. i double checked my multimeter settings and took voltage at the battery terminals and it was correct. i am showing negative voltage at the TURN SIGNAL sockets when the PARKING LIGHTS are on. i have no idea what this means.... also, if the parking lights are off, there is a voltage reading of zero at the sockets even with the key in the "on" position... PLEASE HELP!!!

im going

P.S. ive already checked my grounds.

 

on another note. im not sure if its related, but sometimes there is a SLIGHT delay when i flip the switch to parking lights for the dash to light up. not like a few seconds or anything. you probably wouldnt notice it if you werent looking for it. but its like *Click* One Missi *ON*

 

bump for help

 

I sent you a PM BUT,,,,,,,your box was FULL! Your right,,,Ive been BUSY ripping my ZO6 down and installing my head, cam, fast 90/90, 40 lb/hr injectors, tunnel plate, etc. I'll be on the forum a LOT less than normal for the next few weeks. Doing a LOT of MODs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Clear out your PM box and when I get home tonight I will send you the PM. I saved the PM write up so it will be a quick click and send!

As for the -Neg voltage,,,,you sure you had the correct meter lead connected to the correct thing. If you measure the POS voltage side with the negative lead, it will show a NEG voltage on the meter.

Have you checked the Ground wire splice packs for proper continuity?

Ill explain all that in the PM.

Bill

 

Pm box space has been cleared!! thanks bill! i look forward to your write up! good luck on the mods

 

Negative voltage not possible unless the battery leads are reversed ( or there's something strange in the Vettes that I'm unaware of). If that were the case, I expect you would need to call the fire department. Your leads must be backwards on your meter or in the sockets. Digital meters don't care about polarity. They just call it like they see it. Are you putting the meter ground lead on a good ground and then probing your sockets? That is the way to prove - or + voltage is truly coming out. The fact is that the light bulbs won't care about - or + voltage anyways. They are not polarized. If you have voltage at the sockets, sounds like you could be missing the ground. You can put your meter in the ground side of the socket and switch to ohms and read your continuity between the socket ground and the chassis ground. If it is missing or high resistance, either find out where it went missing or run a new ground.

 

conventional current flow is postive to negative, you had your leads reversed just changfe your leads and the - will go away,however if you were reading 10.3 -dc the voltage will be the same

 

I checked continuity between the socket and the splice pack, and the socket and the chassis ground behind the passenger headlight. my digital multimeter went from 1--.- (not connected) flashed a few numbers then settled on 0.00 (after connection was made) in both locations and both sockets. however, if i switch to a different prong inside the sockets it shows 0.01 im assuming that the first connections i made were actually the POS side of the socket and not the NEG. can anyone shed some light on what im looking for?

 

in addition: When i set the multimeter to diode test the (->+) i got a reading of 014. I am assuming that since .01 resistance was neither high nor zero i have good continuity between the chassis ground and the sockets. the problem is they only get power when i turn the multifunction switch to parking lights.

 

Codes: I checked my codes again just now and i have the following:

BCM-
B0502-RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0507-LH DRL Relay Circuit
B2482-Backup lamp Relay Circuit

HOWEVER- these are all showing as history and not as current

and my reverse lights work just fine

 

I could really use some help guys.. I get tuned tomorrow and need to get inspected so i can attend the waterside corvettes show..

 

So the DRLs work but not the turn or flasher on both left and right front?

Sounds like a BCM problem. Here is the schematic for you.

 

both DRLs do not illuminate with the key in the ON position. they only get power when the parking lights are on and even then, they are kinda dim, im not sure if they are supposed to be off or just dimmed when parking lights are on.

 

I think you will find the dim DRLs are in fact the park lamp filaments.

So I think you saying you have no turn or DRLs.

Have you done the simple thing and changed the bulbs?

 

with the key on, the BCM sends a ground signal to each of the relays via a lt blue wire and a blue wire. See the diagram above. That ground signal triggers the relays which in turn triggers the lights. You can remove the relays and determine which pins are the coils. You will see some resistance across them as opposed to very low or no resistance across the normally closed contacts ( also look for the pin numbers or a diagram on the side of the relay ) With the key on, one side of the coil will have 12 volts on it coming from the orange wire. The other side will get a - trigger from the BCM. If you're not getting a - pulse, trace it back to the BCM. If you are, see if the relays are throwing voltage out of the normally open position. If they aren't, replace the relays. If they are, then chase the output voltage toward the bulbs or run new wires to them from the relay outputs.