2fat2fly

My car is a 2003 Z06.
I got the dreaded column locked up on me one day when I wanted to take the cruise missile for a drive.I got a new battery as I just got the car out of winter storage and the old one was slightly low on charge and I needed a new one for another car so I got the new one for the Z and put the old one in the other car.This didn't unlock it.I've read the stickies and bought the clb from Corvettes of Houston.I installed the CLB exactly per the instructions.Column is now unlocked but I have the service column lock message and fuel cuts out at 2 MPH.I thought it might be in the ignition switch so after I removed and disassembled it I cleaned the connectors as a precaution since I was in the dash already.Still no dice.She dies at 2MPH.
I do clearly have a repair harness installed from the recall mod being done to the car about 2 years ago.I saw the wires were White, Purple, Green, Black on the side of the harness going into the body harness.Clearly as per the sticky I must do something about this.
I have also pulled all the bcm fuses recommended and even disconnected the batery a couple times while troubleshooting the issue.I have also cleared all codes from the computer.No BCM codes are showing up now.
The sticky states:
Q How can I tell if I’ve had the recall mod?
A1 If you have an A4 car, can you turn your steering wheel freely while the ignition key is removed? If so, you probably DO have the recall mod.
A2 For all cars, you can inspect your wiring by removing your knee bolster under the driver's side. Inspect your column lock harness. If the four wires in your ECL harness are Orange, Purple, Green, Black on both sides of the connector, then you DO NOT have the recall mod installed. If you have White, Purple, Green, Black on either side of the connector, then you DO have the recall mod.

Q Why is there sometimes a conflict between the recall mod and my CLB?
A For MN6 and M12 cars, the recall mod added a second relay (different from the Harness K which is the GM version of the CLB) between your BCM and your ECL in series with the orange (LOCK) wire. This is to safeguard against a spurious glitch from ever locking your ECL while you are driving (clearly GM is paranoid now). The problem is that this second relay is causing a timing glitch, which resets your CLB immediately after it switches states. The reason it works with your stock ECL is because your ECL motor (being mechanical and slow compared to solid-state logic), is immune to these timing glitches whereas the latching relay inside your CLB sees these glitches and reacts to them.

Q For MN6/M12 cars what can I do if this situation occurs?
A Go into your passenger footwell. Remove your BCM and locate the recall mod relay, remove it and add a jumper wire between the white wire (pin 30) and the orange wire (pin 87). Note that there are two orange wires, so make sure you get the right one!


I don't have the wiring diagram to tell the pin numbers.I want to bypass the faulty circuit as stated in the sticky.Could someone please post the diagram of the wires or a couple pictures showing the correct wires to jumper?I'd greatly appreciate the help.If you've read this far and discovered you can't help well thanks anyway for your time.

2fat2fly

If I'm wrong about anything in the previous post please don't hesitate to speak up.I believe my train of thought to be accurate but I'm only human and we all make mistakes every once in a awhile.

timemender

I’m not sure if the following link will help you or not. It shows the K-harness. It states that it pertains to 97 & 98 A4’s as it references removal of the lock plate so that the lock pin has nothing to engage. They did this on most 97 to 2000 A4’s, maybe on the second or third recall. 2001 and up U.S. A4’s didn’t have the column lock installed from the factory.

To me it seems that you simply have a sync error between the BCM and the CLB. Maybe the following link can help you re-sync. (Or confuse you even more) Good luck and please post your solution.

http://pages.infinit.net/vette747/ColumnLock

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Have you tried pulling fuses 25 & 29 if fuse 25 alone didn't work? See below

Found this in my files copied from the Internet. Supposedly you don’t have to wait a full “10 minutes” with each fuse pull, but it can’t hurt.

Reset Fuel Cutoff Issue

Symptom - Pull Key wait 10 seconds and/or Fuel Cuts off after 2 seconds when trying to move the car.
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.

2) Press the "RESET" button to turn off any warning messages

3) Press and hold "OPTIONS"

4) While holding "OPTIONS", press "FUEL" four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an "Automatic Mode" which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. If none are present in a given module, you will see "No More Codes" on the display.

To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press "E/M". If you want to erase codes in a given module, press "RESET".

To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold "RESET" until it displays "NO CODES". Press "OPTIONS" to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.

Key back off, remove fuse #25 and wait 10 minutes before re-installing it.

Install the fuse, bring key back to On and all messages should be cleared as well as the fuel cut-off. If you still have problems repeat the above except this time remove fuses #25 and #29 for 10 minutes. Repeat again and it should be good to go.

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P.S. – I really don’t know 100% what I’m talking about, as I am NOT an expert regarding this issue. I’m just trying to help you stumble upon a solution.

From what I understand the third recall also calls for the removal of the lock plate on the manual shift cars – keeping the fuel cut off however to satisfy government anti-theft requirements. (Probably most 6 speeds like your car, never got the third recall implemented)

One thing that I’ve read about the issue is that you should install the CLB before you get the “Service Column Lock”, or a trip to the dealer is required to unlock the column. Seems that you managed to get the column unlocked?

The weak battery most likely caused this issue in the first place (again, from what I’ve read in the past). If you’re sure that the column lock is functioning OK (and you’ve disconnected it) maybe hook it back up, then reinstall the CLB after the column unlocks and the BCM sees that it is unlocked.

One last thing – it seems that HP Tuners software can be used to reprogram the fuel cutoff speed up from 2-MPH to say 200-MPH, which will solve that issue once and for all.

2fat2fly

I pulled fuses #25 and #29 and did the whole wait ten minutes deal ( I actually waited about 20 minutes).Put them back in and still the same stuff.I can start the car and it'll run fine.I get the messages to "service column lock" and occasionally I'll get the "pull key and wait for Hell to freeze over "message.My drive way is on a slight incline so I put the car in neutral and let it coast downhill.At 2 MPH the car dies.My column is not locked and as I stated earlier I do have the CLB installed.Looking at the ecl harness there is no K harness relay that I can see.I even pulled the bcm up tho see if anything (a k harness) was under or around it as some posts in the previously mentioned sticky claim there will be.There's no extra anything there as far as I can tell.I guess I'm at the point where there is no extra anything (even though the wires that conected to my ecl are the colors that claim there is a new harness installed).I followed the wires until they disappear into the main under dash harness and the only connection plug is the one at the base of the steering column.
As stated before,my car is a 2003 Z06.I'm assuming I need to have someone with HPTuners software remove the column lock programming since this is all my car is supposed to have.
I did go back and check the codes again on the DIC.I got these Two codes-B2592H and B2587H.B2587 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A).B2592 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B) .Both were H codes.So I assume they were what started this odessy.

Any thoughts on this?
Bueller?

...Bueller?

....Ferris Bueller?...

Anyone?

rmcjfrank

Remove the K harness...mine just did the same on an 01. I did and it fixed the problem today!!! It was a really stressful situation, and the dealer was no help...after research I found a suggestion to remove the K harness, so I did and it works perfect now! Basically I have a faulty harness (just sh*& after two years of being in the car).

Basically, take off the lower dash panel, and look for the connector where you put your CLB in...then look further up and to the left...you will see another plug with same color wires. Disconnect it, and plug the CLB into the original harness connection. Make sure you pull fuse 25 to reset the computer.

PM me if you have any questions.

2fat2fly

Unfortunately this is a no go.Please see your pm.The wires go straight into the main harness with no other connections.
Thanks for your help.
Mike

pops98

I recently had a simalar problem, but I have a 98 a4. Turns out fuse 23 was blown and when I replaced the fuse, I removed the k harness and installed the CLB from Corvettes of Houston.
I am not sure if your Z-06 has the same recall fix mine had. I thought through my reading that there was another relay installed somehwere in the pass footwell, don't hold my feet to the flame on that though.
Contact cscoked in the tech section. He may be able to help you

Good Luck
Pops98

rmcjfrank

Check your PM, if it will help, call and I can walk you through what I did.

2fat2fly

Bump

Teddy98Z28M6

Luckily my driveway is not that steep as the problem happened to me recently and GM did my recall back in 2006. I partly fixed my issue with HPTuner, so at least my fuel doesn't cut off over 2 mph now.

I'm still trying to figure out which relay underneath the passenger footwell. I have 2 relays just above the BCM. I have ordered the CLB for my Z06 but don't know if it will fix this issue since you are saying you have the CLB. That leaves this relay from what I have read. I also have a white wire on the female connector end, then all 4 wires go into the big bulk of wires under the dash.

This whole column lock problem is crazy with the C5's. It makes me not want to buy GM for my next vehicle. I have always owned GM believe it or not.

ZeeOSix

Certainly is. I don't know why GM couldn't get the last recall attempt right. Makes me glad I never went in for the recall and just put a CLB in before it was ever touched by the dealer for the recall(s).

2fat2fly

When I have an update I'll post it for you guys.

2fat2fly

Spent the last hour with a fluke meter chasing wires and checking different things.We don't have it fixed YET but we will!Tonight's adventure was to mainly chase a baseline on things to be able to look at some diagrams a very helpful forum member sent me.When I get my cruising missile back on the road I'll give the details on what was found to be the problem.

Teddy98Z28M6

I get my CLB soon and hoping that will fix my issue, or I'm back to the drawing board. Can you send me the diagrams when you get a chance? Thanks!

kettemr

I had the same problem after my battery ran down (I left the key on overnight) and a few months after having the dealer install the K-Harness on the recall. I flatbedded it back ti the dealer on AAA's dime and the dealer called GM who told them to remove the K-Harness that they installed for the recall in then fisrt place. No problems since then.

2fat2fly

As soon as I get mine figured out I'll be more than happy to share all my info.I don't want to post anything just yet as I don't have the complete picture of what is exactly going on with mine.I don't have the K harness installed,at least not where it is supposed to be.I've been chasing many different things and for some reason the poles on the relay above my BCM are reading the opposite of what they should for when the key is on or off.Is there another relay somewhere?I don't know yet.That's why I sought the help of others.I am progressing thru this minefield that is the CLB issue but it's taking a little while.As I said before,I will share anything I find on this.

2fat2fly

I finally figured it out.I asked Cscokd
for help and he obliged with a whole slew of diagrams and pictures on the CLB and ECL systems.He even spent more than an hour on the phone with me last night while I crawled around under the dash on both sides of my car testing relays and chasing wires.when we were done last night my car still wasn't operating properly but I had hope.
Cscokd wanted to look at the factory wiring diagrams more and we were going to get together again later this week and work on it again.He had asked me to check some ground wires for resistance and email the Ohm readings to him.I did that and while I was at my computer I started to look back over the wire diagrams more carefully to see exactly how the system operated as a whole to try and figure out why some of my readings on the fluke meter were screwy last night.This is when I realized my mistake.Last night I jumpered across pins 87 and 30 on the relay by the BCM just like I was told to but this didn't work like it's supposed to.While I looked at the wiring diagrams this evening I realized I didn't actually take the relay out of the system when I jumpered it.I put the jumper wire in from the backside of the connector.I should have unhooked the relay from the connector first.I didn't because I thought I was bypassing the relay by doing the jumper wire.This doesn't remove the relay from the system.It just makes you ask "What the Hell is going on?!" when the system doesn't work.The lesson learned here is REMOVE THE RELAY THEN CONNECT THE JUMPER .After I did that everything worked as advertised.:o
Now my cars works properly and I'm retarded kid that doesn't know he's retarded,happy!
One other point here for anyone doing this mod.If you put the clb in I noticed that you still need to wait 10 seconds after turning the key off before turning it back on or you'll get the "Remove key and wait" message.I don't know for sure which one is generating the timing delay here(CLB or BCM) but you need to give it the time it would normally take with the column installed for the BCM to stay in synch with the CLB to avoid the messages on the DIC.

Again let me personally thank Cscokd for all the assistance.Without your help I would still be chasing my tail looking for a solution.I do still plan to have the 2 mph shutoff speed raised by a shop with HP tuners software,but now I'll do it when I'm having the car tuned for performance and not as a band aid fix for this conglomeration of a CLB nightmare.

Cscokd

Always a pleasure to help our forum brothers and sisters. Glad you nailed it tonight. Now you'll be a happy camper once again.

ZeeOSix

So I take it this relay by the BCM was failed and was causing the problem? What is that relay for?

Teddy98Z28M6

Awesome, that was really cool of Cscokd to spend his time helping you out.

So I concluded that the relay went bad, and now you have taken it out of the picture. My CLB should be here any day now, but I don't think it will fix my issue with the column lock and take key out, wait 10 secs.

Can someone post a picture of this relay? TIA