Engine break in tips
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Medford Or
Engine break in tips
Hey guys, I am going to be starting the new motor in a few days, and I was curious if you all had any tips as to the best way to break the engine.....it is supercharged and so I wasnt sure if I should keep the boost/load off the engine for a while by breaking the car in just running it, or should I drive it.....help.-Dustin
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 104
From: Des Moines Iowa
Not sure why break in would be any different. Unless someone who should know says otherwise, I'd suggest no heavy loads / WOT for 1st 500 miles. What does your engine builder say?
Might want to check with the FI boys / forum.
Might want to check with the FI boys / forum.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
Built motors are usually 'looser' in tolerance than oem motors. I've learned that what needs to happen during break-in is for the rings to seal. you only have about the 1st 25 miles or so after initial start before the cylinder wall hone wears to the point it will no longer lap the rings. The way the rings get sealed is by putting cylinder pressure behind them and it forces the rings into contact with the cylinder walls. If it's a built motor I would first start it and verify the AFR, then idle to operating temp. Then check it all over for leaks. Then if good, drive it like you stole it for the first 50 miles, then change the oil, drive it like you stole it for another 150 miles, change the oil, and be good to go, UNLESS your engine builder specifically tells you to 'baby' it. If he does, there must be a good reason to. Here is a link that supports kicking the snot out of it from the get-go. How to break-in a new motor. Also a lot of guys recommend at least the initial 2 oil fills be Rotella T or some other high detergent high ZDDP oil. That's how I did it. And the motor feels very strong.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 8,145
Likes: 1
From: Bradenton FLORIDA
Built motors are usually 'looser' in tolerance than oem motors. I've learned that what needs to happen during break-in is for the rings to seal. you only have about the 1st 25 miles or so after initial start before the cylinder wall hone wears to the point it will no longer lap the rings. The way the rings get sealed is by putting cylinder pressure behind them and it forces the rings into contact with the cylinder walls. If it's a built motor I would first start it and verify the AFR, then idle to operating temp. Then check it all over for leaks. Then if good, drive it like you stole it for the first 50 miles, then change the oil, drive it like you stole it for another 150 miles, change the oil, and be good to go, UNLESS your engine builder specifically tells you to 'baby' it. If he does, there must be a good reason to. Here is a link that supports kicking the snot out of it from the get-go. How to break-in a new motor. Also a lot of guys recommend at least the initial 2 oil fills be Rotella T or some other high detergent high ZDDP oil. That's how I did it. And the motor feels very strong.
Couldn't have said it better myself.
