Hey Guys I just installed a new textraila clutch over the weekend. Along with the new slave cylinder I also installed the remote clutch bleeder. I routed the end of the bleeder up next to the clutch master. As I was looking at it I said to myself "I wonder if my brake pressure bleeder will work on the clutch?"

So I soaked up all the old fluid out of the reservoir and filled up my brake bleeder with GM super dot 4 brake & clutch fluid and installed it over the clutch master cylinder. I pumped it up to 20psi and opened the bleeder. The fluid started coming out and I let the fluid drain into a cup. Started out pretty dark as it pushed out the old fluid. The fluid then kept coming out clearer and clearer. By the time about 6-8 oz came out the fluid was running perfectly clear. I closed off the bleed screw, put the cap back on and tried the clutch. Works perfect.

No more needing 2 people to bleed the clutch. This also flushes all the old fluid out of the system and replaces it with all new. This is a much easier way to change out your clutch fluid then the Ranger method and all the fluid gets changed.

This should also work with the conventional bleeder down at the slave cylinder and turn it into a 1 man job. With the remote bleeder it makes the job a snap with no mess. I bought the pressure bleeder from Summit for $59.00

Just thought some of you guys might wanna try this method.

 

I just tried to bleed mine with remote bleeder in the traditional manner with no luck. Wish I had one of those tools

 

Part numer please...tia

 

yeah! whats the part # ??????????

 

I spoke to Peter at Textralia about bleeding. What he recommend is you open the bleeder, then have someone press the pedal and hold it down while the bleeder is closed off. Then release the pedal. The manual states press the pedal first then open the bleeder. I used Peter's method and it worked well.

Question for the OP, 20psi seems kind of high, any reason you went that high?

 

Guys I used Motive Products Power Bleeder Kit # MVP-0252 and it costs $79.75 from Summit Racing. the kit I bought comes with 3 different adapters. They have kits from $49.95 and up depending on what adapters comes with the kit. Check them out at www.summitracing.com

I used 20 psi as a guess because I thought there might be some kind of check valve in the connector. The fluid came out of the bleeder at a good rate (not too fast or too slow) @ 20 psi. I also used this unit to bleed my brakes after having the ABS unit off the car while installing my supercharger kit. I had read somewhere on the forum that you needed 25psi to properly bleed through the ABS valve. This unit also worked great for the brake system and made brake bleeding a one man job. Great pedal pressure.
It was really nice to have a tool work like it is supposed to.

 

Ive got an LAPD bleeder extension on my slave but I can't get their "speed bleeder" to work correctly. When I attach my pump to the bleeder nipple and open it up all it does is suck air. I have to pull the speed bleeder out of the line and put my vac pump directly over the extension line to flush the fluid...

before anyone asks, I do know how a speed bleeder works, I have them on my brembo calipers and clutch slave on another car. It just doesn't work on the LAPD line for some reason...

 

Must have been a clutch install weekend. I installed a Centerforce 11" Dual Friction, LAPD Remote bleeder(which seems to suck some air around the bleeder), all new hydraulics, F1 Racing Chromoly lite weight flywheel, pilot bearing, and Wilwood 600 fluid.

The bleeder does seem to let some air leak around it but my Harbor Freight version of a Mighty Vac works well.

The flywheel weighs 14.5 lbs which is 10 pounds lighter than stock and just a few pounds heavier than an aluminum and hopefully more dependable.

Only have 25 miles on it so it's too early to tell yet what I think. So far I like it.

Did learn though this is a public forum and when the install guides say "This part is Tricky" they really mean this is a mother ****er.

 

What a moron! I had my g/f push the pedal in for me while I tried to bleed it on Wed. night. The pedal kept going straight to the floor and staying there. Tonight I look and see that I didn't have the rod attached to the pedal.

 

A Help! speed bleeder at the end of my LAPD remote bleeder worked great with the ol' pedal pump method.

 

PFYC has the motive unit for under 60 bucks.

http://www.pfyc.com/pc/GN7013/VTTRAC...e+Bleeder.html

 

Is this unit as simple as it looks? Do you just screw the cap onto your clutch fluid reservoir and pump out all the existing clutch fluid? Can you post the steps you use with this pump?

Thanks in advance.

 

 

I do it this way, but only have them push the pedal down about 1/2"-1", it seems to get the air out more consistently than going all the way to the floor.

 

I just do mine with a bleed bottle attached and i do sort of the same thing. About 1"-2" push at a time as i am standing and watching the fluid level in the resevoir and bottle and make sure the bleeder isn't letting in air.

Bleeding hydraulics is not too hard guys.

1. buy $20 bleed bottle
2. fill with an inch of last years new fluid that is too wet to put into your car
3. hook it up to bleeder and open bleeder JUST ENOUGH to flow fluid with slightly heavy pedal pressure.
4. Pump till your heart is content and close bleeder, don't let the resevoir run dry, don't over tighten it.

I have been bleeding my brakes and clutches that way myself for 5-6 years multiple times a season and have never had an issue.