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I am in the middle of my head cam swap and i am installing the new ASP underdrive pulley. It needs to go about another inch before it will line up for the belts and i am slowly turning the motor over now everytime i try to tighten the bolt more. I can "click" my torque wrench at 200 210lbs/ft. Any suggestions????
I am in the middle of my head cam swap and i am installing the new ASP underdrive pulley. It needs to go about another inch before it will line up for the belts and i am slowly turning the motor over now everytime i try to tighten the bolt more. I can "click" my torque wrench at 200 210lbs/ft. Any suggestions????
Dude, I hope I am reading your post entirely wrong, but it sounds like you are installing the new balancer with a bolt. I hope this is not the case. If so, you are setting yourself up for a world of hurt. There is soo much information available on the correct way to install a balancer within this forum, and in the service manual.
He is probably following LS1howto, I with they would either fix that part of the web site instructions, warn someone of the consequences or just take the site down. I can't count how many guys have screwed up their crankshafts following that web site.
Don't use a bolt, get the bolt out of there and either rent or make a tool.
DO NOT USE A BOLT. Take it from me... I broke a bolt off in the end of the crank. I then tried drilling it and using an EZ out... and the EZ out broke off in the end of the crank. The engine had to then be taken out of the car and taken to a place that does EDM... Electronic Discharge Machining. I cannot tell you how much of a pain in the *** that was, however it was very expensive and cost me alot of downtime. Get the proper tool. I also recommend throwing the balancer in the oven at 225 degrees for about a half an hour before you try putting it on, use gloves, and with the proper tool that puppy will slip right on. And no, 225 degrees will NOT harm the balancer in any way.
I just installed one on my car. I used the old bolt to mount it and I locked it down with the new bolt and some red locktite. Been fine ever since.
To get it on without turning the engine I put mine in 5th gear since my SS is a 6spd. For an auto, I hear you'd need to remove the starter and put a big screwdriver in the flywheel to keep it from turning.
I just did mine...I used a longer bolt to pull it on enough. Then I used the old bolt to put it on all the way and the new bolt for final torque... 240 ...that was crazy..I thought my car was gonna come off the stands...
I just installed one on my car. I used the old bolt to mount it and I locked it down with the new bolt and some red locktite. Been fine ever since..
Consider yourself lucky that you didn't incur the nightmare that many others have incurred!
Originally Posted by 7camaro7
To get it on without turning the engine I put mine in 5th gear since my SS is a 6spd. For an auto, I hear you'd need to remove the starter and put a big screwdriver in the flywheel to keep it from turning
When properly installing it, you will need to lock up the engine. I did what 7camaro7 did except I put it in 4th or 5th and put on the e-brake. For an auto, you may be able to get enough resistance by using a compressor and a compression gauge, remove the spark plug, remove the schrader valve on the compression gauge and connect the compressor to it. I have a Snap-On compression gauge that allows me to directly connect my quick release hose chuck to the compression gauge and that is what you will need.
If you can't find some long thread and you have access to a MIG welder, you can do what I did. I bought 2 long bolts, cut the heads off, ground bevels in each end, clamped them in a piece of angle iron to keep them concentric and welded them together. I ground the welds smooth and used that for my balancer installer. I have used it 3 times and it works perfect every time.
Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06; May 1, 2008 at 08:31 AM.
Consider yourself lucky that you didn't incur the nightmare that many others have incurred!
When properly installing it, you will need to lock up the engine. I did what 7camaro7 did except I put it in 4th or 5th and put on the e-brake. For an auto, you may be able to get enough resistance by using a compressor and a compression gauge, remove the spark plug, remove the schrader valve on the compression gauge and connect the compressor to it. I have a Snap-On compression gauge that allows me to directly connect my quick release hose chuck to the compression gauge and that is what you will need.
If you can't find some long thread and you have access to a MIG welder, you can do what I did. I bought 2 long bolts, cut the heads off, ground bevels in each end, clamped them in a piece of angle iron to keep them concentric and welded them together. I ground the welds smooth and used that for my balancer installer. I have used it 3 times and it works perfect every time.
lol yea, I had the hand brake on too. I remember a tool that would've probably worked for you. I don't remember the name of it, but what it does is loosen up bolts that are stripped. You put it on the stripped bolt or headless bolt and you take a hammer and hit it. The way it's built is when you hold the tool and you hit it, it twists inside to break the bolt loose the loosening way. I don't know the name of it but it looks like a screw driver without the shaft(only a handle and the little attachment at the end).