I got my car back for a week after getting a new cam, fast 90/90 and other misc parts installed. Got it tuned SD as the 85mm MAF I bought on here was dead on arrival. Yea $125 wasted lovely.

Well onto whats happening. I drove the car for a week and its ran great, im breaking in the new built diff and tranny so I haven't really gotten on it hard except for a quick 1st gear burst. Everything seemed great....Now onto yesterday, I got called into work as they were having problems, yadda no need to get into that. Go outside car cranks up and runs like a dream on the way to work. It sits about 4 hours while Im there and finally its time to go. Try to start the car and it tries to crank and sputters out. Do it again same result, hell try once more bc Im ready to go home and nothing just turns over and over with no spark to fire it up.

Then it displays reduced engine power. Pull the codes and I get these P0102, P0108 C, P1514 H C, C1278 H and some other ones that I didn't write down, not sure if it keeps old codes stored until they are cleared out or not though. So Im thinking maybe its flooded, and let it sit for about 4 hours and I get a ride home. Come back later and try to start it and nothing and finally the battery dies. So I get a truck to jump it and its tries to fire but keeps just choking out. Finally I get it started as right when its trying to choke out I put the clutch and it fires, throw it a couple revs and take it down the street. Im thinking sweet just a little glitch and it worked itself out. Well nope, I pull back up and the car dies again and now it wont crank again. Let it sit all night and go back and try to fire it up and nothing, just turns over and over.

I realize you are asleep now reading this, especially if you made it this far. Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be the cause and what part might have failed?

Thanks and any insight would be appreciated.
Matt

 

I'll be watching,I'm having the same problem after a cam install,got some other codes on mine though.I have to clear my dic everytime I start my car to drive it,did you clear yours? Its easy,just hold option button down and press the fuel button 4 times,that gets you in there and you can clear your codes.

 

Here is a very informative thread on reduced engine power:


Hopefully this will provide some direction. I can understand your frusatation with the problem.

 

I will head back later and clear the codes and see which new ones pop up. I read a few others issues but none seem to be like mine.

 

who tuned the car? shouldnt be setting a p0102 in speed density

 

From experience, I can tell you what P1514 is all about.

It's has to do with the amount of air that the MAF is reading in relation to throttle position. It's a sanity check for the drive by wire on the Corvette. If the MAF sees more air going across than it thinks it should be seeing for a given throttle position, it thinks that the throttle could be hung and puts the engine into reduced power mode.

P0102 is a MAF error. It the car was tuned for speed density, then this code is being set because the MAF has been set to fail.

If you do your own tuning, you can adjust the table that causes the P1514 error, and you can disable the MIL light and reporting of P0102.

P0108 is a MAP sensor error that makes me think that MAP sensor didn't get plugged back in well when the intake was put back in place, or it came loose after driving.

C1278 tells you that traction control has been temporarily disabled by the PCM. I think this is pretty common when engine goes into reduced power mode.

If you do your own tuning, you can adjust this out. If not, take it back to your tuner.

On the table for P1514, it's not a good idea to max out that table as it's a fail-safe to check for a hung throttle blade.

Hope this helps.

 

I will be contacting the builder/tuner tomorrow. I was guessing the car was SD tuned but they might have replaced the MAF and didn't tell me or charge me. I will find out for sure tomorrow but thanks a ton for your post!

 

So I get into work this morning and of course the first thing I try is to get the car started. Well I check the codes and write them all down.

P0102H, P0108C, P1514HC, and U1000H was all of them. So I clear them all out and try to start the car. It turns over and over and nothing. Then I try again and it turns over and then tries to fire but sputters out and has no response to the gas when Im trying to give it a little to fire up. Then try again and same thing. Finally the battery dies as it had enough trying to crank over the last couple days.

WTH could be the problem here. After I tried to start it after clearing the codes, nothing came back up when I tried to view the codes. Im lost!

 

for the morning crowd, could this be a fuse or relay issue? Im at work now but I can't really toy with the car on company time. Im awaiting the shop that did the swap and build to contact me still as well which should be shortly.

 

just an idea, whenever i have a problem, i go do a quick check over to make sure everything is plugged in, might have to yank the fuel rail covers to see more stuff...just a thought.

 

shop looked over a couple things and still no cause, they said it could be some security issue with the ecu or something to that nature. Hopefully they have more time tomorrow to look it over and get this figured out.

 

bump any ideas on what else to check?

 

just a shot but what about the crank sensor or cam sensor?

 

The only time I have seen those exact codes all together was because the MAF was plugged in, but not connected to the throttle body. It would throw the codes, then go into reduced power and die, it would not start again once it died. Clear the codes and it would do it again. A MAF needing replaced would do the exact same thing

 

Matt are you positve your getting fire at every plug? Did you install a new oil pump with all these mods? It does sound like a trigger problem. I would first look into the tune though. Using HPtuners? Shoot me the file. Throw a maf back on temporaraly. Also confirm all your grounds are good after a head swap I have seen them not put back snug and cause weird problems and they didnt show up untill weeks after.

 

You are caught between a rock and a hard place with this one .... you changed a bunch of components at once ..... cam .... intake manifold .... and "other misc parts installed" (that really helps diagnose the problem) .... AND ..... you imply the car was "tuned" because you think it is running a Speed/Density tune now.

You have non-OEM parts and a non-OEM "tune" ..... the only guys that might figure this one out are the guys who "tuned" the car. Without knowing what they did to your PCM, and without knowing what parts they installed .... IMPOSSIBLE to "guess" what your problem is.

Good luck

 

The car was tuned and built by an LS1tech sponsor, it wasn't thrown together by myself and buddies in the garage. The codes I pulled were history codes but I didn't know what the H stood for in the code until after I looked them up, which confused me and made me question the tune the car received. The car was not tuned with the MAF.

The car ran flawless for a week after I got it back from the shop, it just happened out of the blue. The car actually ran better than it did with the old PRC, MS3 setup that was tuned by Jeremy Formato.

232/238 cam
new valvetrain
New HG's
yella terra RR's
Fast 90
90mm billet TB
UDP
ported oil pump
double roller chain

thats all that was installed motor wise along with a built trans and diff. The car is at the shop now of the builder and tuner and they have yet to figure it out. They went over the wiring and everything checked out ok but Im not sure what all they tested/checked.

Not sure if this helps or not, but I did my best to clarify a little better.

Matt

 

I shot you a pm buddy, yes a tsp ported oil pump was installed with the rest of the mods listed in the post above this one.

 

So what are the new codes? The 1514 needs to be addressed in the C6101 ETC Predicted airflow table. It needs to be raised by 40%. The 102 should be in the codes along with 101 and 103 unless they were completely deleted from your enabler table which could cause problems. But the lamp should be turned off for them. There is also closed loop SD and open loop SD. They are tuned slightly differently and one could be interfearing with the other. It may only take a reflash to correct this problem. The MAP sensor may also be partially to blame here. Try reseating it. I would say you are dead rich but if the SD tune was done correctly then that shouldn't be a problem unless the MAF was never tuned and it is some how kicking in right now. It could also be as simple as a wire being disconnected or a loose ground that came off. If your shop can't figure it out, bring it on down and I can take a look at it and your tune to see what's up. I have had alot of cars in my garage with no problems like this. Check your spark plugs as well. See if any of them are fowled. That will tell us if it is a fuel or spark problem. Good luck, and keep us posted.

p.s. I am going to put my money on the MAP sensor. That is where I would start.

Brett

 

Thank God Brett did all my work and can tune like a champ also. Listen to what he has to say, he has worked out more issues with my car than I can count on fingers and toes

Blu you need to quit messing around with that shop that seems to blow you off and let Brett deal with that car. He will square you away and will MAKE SURE that your install/ tune/ etc is right.

Guess reputable, big, high cost shops are not always better than a house garage when the guy doing the work really knows his $hit.

Cajun