Over heating C5
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Over heating C5
Recently installed a new Stage II D1SC procharger kit on my C5 due to some over heating issues I was having with the original Stage I kit and have not seen a difference in temperature change.
Car is running around 228 degrees in 65 degree weather and can't think of what will happen when it hits 80 degrees or more.
Car produces 592 RWHP, changed out to a 160 degree thermostat, Dewitt 4 core aluminum radiator. I do have SLP headers that are coated. Also reinstalled the dual fans which was part of the advantage of going from the Stage I kit to the Stage II.
Anyone have any idea of steps I could take to change get my car to run any cooler?
Thanks
Car is running around 228 degrees in 65 degree weather and can't think of what will happen when it hits 80 degrees or more.
Car produces 592 RWHP, changed out to a 160 degree thermostat, Dewitt 4 core aluminum radiator. I do have SLP headers that are coated. Also reinstalled the dual fans which was part of the advantage of going from the Stage I kit to the Stage II.
Anyone have any idea of steps I could take to change get my car to run any cooler?
Thanks
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 87
Likes: 1
coolant overheating solved
Recently installed a new Stage II D1SC procharger kit on my C5 due to some over heating issues I was having with the original Stage I kit and have not seen a difference in temperature change.
Car is running around 228 degrees in 65 degree weather and can't think of what will happen when it hits 80 degrees or more.
Car produces 592 RWHP, changed out to a 160 degree thermostat, Dewitt 4 core aluminum radiator. I do have SLP headers that are coated. Also reinstalled the dual fans which was part of the advantage of going from the Stage I kit to the Stage II.
Anyone have any idea of steps I could take to change get my car to run any cooler?
Thanks
Car is running around 228 degrees in 65 degree weather and can't think of what will happen when it hits 80 degrees or more.
Car produces 592 RWHP, changed out to a 160 degree thermostat, Dewitt 4 core aluminum radiator. I do have SLP headers that are coated. Also reinstalled the dual fans which was part of the advantage of going from the Stage I kit to the Stage II.
Anyone have any idea of steps I could take to change get my car to run any cooler?
Thanks
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 78
From: Forney Texas
This is me thinking out loud. Things that cause over heating are fueling, timing, blown head gaskets, air pockets in the engine, mis-reading coolant temp sensor, trash in front of the radiator, the deflector missing below the car which creates a high pressure front area and a low pressure rear area on the radiator, cracked block or heads, water pump not flowing properly, thermostat not opening properly, fan wiring reversed causing fans to blow and not suck air through, collapsed radiator hose or any other restriction in the system, defective radiator cap.
Check all of the easy things first.
Check all of the easy things first.
Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06; May 18, 2008 at 12:53 PM. Reason: adding items
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 78
From: Forney Texas
Also, does it do this on the highway or do the temps begin to recover on the highway? Does it do it at idle or does it begin to recover at idle? When does it get hot? Does it ever recover from it with the engine running?
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Guy, thanks for your reply on the overheating issues. I picked the car up yesterday and here are the things that have been done.
Reprogrammed the fans to come on earlier, put the stock deflector (brush guard) back on the car to direct air up into the radiator, checked the fluid to water ratio 60/40, new 160 stat, checked wiring as mentioned above (good), no collapsed hoses, flow of fluid in the overflow, new radiator cap (just in case bad cap), removed foglight bezels as mentioned above.
By doing all of this, I was able to get the temp to go from 226 degrees at 75mph to 216 degrees. But (it was 63 degrees outside last night) no reason it should be in the 200's if you ask me. Problem still not fixed. I also checked and no white smoke out the exhaust or radiator fluid in the oil, (hopefully eliminating headgasket issues) please confirm if this may or may not be an issue still. Transmission fluid is staying around 242 which is should be good.
Reprogrammed the fans to come on earlier, put the stock deflector (brush guard) back on the car to direct air up into the radiator, checked the fluid to water ratio 60/40, new 160 stat, checked wiring as mentioned above (good), no collapsed hoses, flow of fluid in the overflow, new radiator cap (just in case bad cap), removed foglight bezels as mentioned above.
By doing all of this, I was able to get the temp to go from 226 degrees at 75mph to 216 degrees. But (it was 63 degrees outside last night) no reason it should be in the 200's if you ask me. Problem still not fixed. I also checked and no white smoke out the exhaust or radiator fluid in the oil, (hopefully eliminating headgasket issues) please confirm if this may or may not be an issue still. Transmission fluid is staying around 242 which is should be good.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 78
From: Forney Texas
I pm'd Speedygonz72 to see if he found the problem. Here is his reply.
Bret, thanks for your e-mail, I did figure out what caused the issue, it ended up being the wiring on the dual fan setup of all things. one was wired correct and the other was backwards causing the heat to be circulated non-stop in the engine bay.
Bret, thanks for your e-mail, I did figure out what caused the issue, it ended up being the wiring on the dual fan setup of all things. one was wired correct and the other was backwards causing the heat to be circulated non-stop in the engine bay.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 28
From: Wa
This is me thinking out loud. Things that cause over heating are fueling, timing, blown head gaskets, air pockets in the engine, mis-reading coolant temp sensor, trash in front of the radiator, the deflector missing below the car which creates a high pressure front area and a low pressure rear area on the radiator, cracked block or heads, water pump not flowing properly, thermostat not opening properly, fan wiring reversed causing fans to blow and not suck air through, collapsed radiator hose or any other restriction in the system, defective radiator cap.
Check all of the easy things first.
Check all of the easy things first.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
This is me thinking out loud. Things that cause over heating are fueling, timing, blown head gaskets, air pockets in the engine, mis-reading coolant temp sensor, trash in front of the radiator, the deflector missing below the car which creates a high pressure front area and a low pressure rear area on the radiator, cracked block or heads, water pump not flowing properly, thermostat not opening properly, fan wiring reversed causing fans to blow and not suck air through, collapsed radiator hose or any other restriction in the system, defective radiator cap.
Check all of the easy things first.
Check all of the easy things first.
my first thoughts are to clean the radiators, add water wetter, seal up the radiator schauld with black duct tape. Air not flowing properly though the radiator will cause major heat increases.
Next an extractor hood to get that heat out.
Good Luck
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 87
Likes: 1
Keep in mind that the 3" tube connecting the intercoolers is blocking most of the area at the bottom which is where the air is supposed to come in. Of all the changes i made, the spal fans made the biggest difference. See my other post above re other changes i made.
