Major Electrical Shutdown when key turned, HELP!





I strongly recommend completely removing the battery and go have it load tested to make sure it can can handle starting loads. When you get it back home, install it and correctly torque the battery terminals down to 11 FT/Lbs of TQ. That way the cable terminals are making good contact with the battery terminals. If you can move the battery cable terminal by hand,,,it's way too loose.
A bad connection between the battery terminal and battery cables will cause that exact problem.
BC
However your battery has been going bad over time, and not accepting a charge. Now it doesn't meet the minimum charge to start your car.
It is also possible that it is not the battery, but you can't (Shouldn't is probably a better word) really move on to the next step of electrical diagnostic without knowing you have a battery that is 100% good.
How old is your battery? Where I come from in Arizona, it is so dang hot we have to change out batteries every two years. If you don't feel like taking yours out and going to Autozone/Checker Auto Parts/Krager for a free battery check, do you have another car with a similar battery you can swap TEMPORARILY?





Well,,,they charged me an hours worth of labor and told me to get another RED TOP
Boy was I pissed.The battery is a mysterious black box. You cant open it up and examine the internal parts. (well you can,,,ONCE and its really messy
) Unless you have it properly tested using the correct test equipment (load tester and recovery rate tested) the battery is always going to be under suspect.
Now that Ive said that, once you tell us that you have had the battery correctly tested, I will tell you that you need to check the POS and neg battery cables for correct tightness and condition. You need to follow them down to the starter and engine block and the POS cables to the fuse junction boxes and make sure the connections are clean and tight.
The weird noises that you were hearing were relay/s being unhappy due to very low voltages. They make a humming and sometimes squealing noise when they cant make adequate coil closing contact. That condition is NOT conducive to long relay life.
There are conditions that cause the bolts that secure the battery cables not to be able to apply the proper contact on the battery. See if you can wiggle either battery cable by hand. if you can, thats the issue. They MUST be properly torqued to 11 ft/lbs (1997-2003 C5) to make proper contact.
BC
Last edited by nytoy; May 7, 2008 at 05:02 PM.
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RonJ ...
Almost exact same scenario playing out with me right now.
Pulled into the driveway. Shut down to move another car. Came back out and it tried to turn over, then, nothing. Just the clicking relays.
The battery is on the charger right now. I'll be taking it in shortly.
I'll let you know how it goes.
Rob
I don't have a voltmeter to check.
It's just sitting out in the driveway looking pathetic.
I'll get it checked and replaced (probably) tomorrow.
I'll actually be happy if it's just the battery.











