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Yet another headlight problem post

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Old May 8, 2008 | 11:40 AM
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Default Yet another headlight problem post

I've been reading up and I'm kind of unsure of my problem now.

I had my right HID go out (ballast I would assume) but the lights still came up and went down fine. While playing with them trying to get it to fire the lights started not going all the way down. From what I read this can be caused by differences in wattage with the HID's. I ended up getting them to go down while I had the brights on. Now even though they are all the way down the car still dings when the doors are open like the lights are on.

Should I be checking fuses and could it be a fuse to cause the power to the right to go out and not the left?

Please help, I'm getting very confused and frustrated with this car...

Last edited by Pepsimayn; May 8, 2008 at 11:50 AM.
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Old May 8, 2008 | 03:52 PM
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The OEM headlight wattage is ~55W. The HID balasts are ~35W. The car senses the presence of the proper load (lightbulb). If it does not sense the correct load, problems happen (i.e. won't turn on, door stay open, etc.). You will need to install a relay harness. The relays present a load similar to the OEM lights and fool the system into thinking the OEM light are present. You should also change the fuse from 10 amp to 20 amp. HTH.

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Old May 8, 2008 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Pepsimayn

Please help, I'm getting very confused and frustrated with this car...
It is not the car, just the oddities with aftermarket HIDs.
If you want HIDs that work just like OEM you will likely need to move up to ACAs.
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Old May 10, 2008 | 05:47 PM
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Well I pulled my HID's off today in favor of the stockers until I can get this figured out. The passenger side bulb is a little milky looking inside one part of the bulb (the bubble looking part). Is this normal and my problems were likely the ballast or is the bulb bad?

Thanks!

Last edited by Pepsimayn; May 11, 2008 at 11:26 AM.
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Old May 11, 2008 | 10:07 PM
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Bumpski...
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