I have a 99.
How difficult to change the spark plugs one self?

thanks

 

JUST DO IT!!! no substitute for this, a swivel will help out or the snapon plug socket/swvl

 

See replies to your post in C5 General.

 

I just did it for the 1st time this weekend, with no special tools, just have to get creative with extension etc.. and a swirvel will help with the drivers side. took me 1.5 hours that is taking it easy and 2 breaks in between to check up on the kids playing in the yard. It would take 1 hour tops, if you are hustling. It is a tight squeeze in there and not allot of room to move around. The plugs on my cobra were a snap.

 

I just did mine... took me an hour to do them and install new msd wires. #7 plug is easy if you unbolt the air connection from the manifold and push the air line out of the way. I used a universal joint and had no issues.

 

http://www.c5forum.com/diy/sparkplugs.php

 

ON the web site showing what to use to change spark plugs, which looks very detailed and helpful, the person is using a $40 swivel socket. I don't use this type of stuff a lot so have a question.

At the parts stores, AutoZone or DisCount Auto, they have these swivel looking sockets on a "T shape" handle and they are under $10. Do these work?

Thanks

 

Hi vettebob2 -

I have put together a small how to - and I did not use the snap on swivel.

Instead, I bought a $8.00 Harbor Freight bent-handled ratchet.

Here is a link to my write up, please use Internet Explorer to view it....

http://www.iammoon.com/c5tech/c5_plugs.htm

best regards-

mqqn

 

I bought a "wobble" socket and extension for under $10 shipped just for the one plug

 

I used the Autozone swivel ONLY on #7 the plug near the brake booster on the driver's side. A regular 5/8 socket and various extensions will do nicely for all the rest.

Have fun and watch those knuckles BIGHANK

 

Hey don't start plug number 7 with the socket you may cross thread it , get a piece of vacuum line about 3 inch long and stick it on the end of the plug and make sure it starts right or your going to be sorry,
Johnny

 

I just changed the plugs in my 99 FRC when I bought it a few weeks ago, the only plug that is hard is the last one on the driver's side. This is literally an hour job if you are drinking beer at the time. Compared to my 99 Z28, this was CAKE. Just change them, you only need one socket, a few extensions and a 3/8 ratchet, and a swivel. Don't make things harder than they are, change the plugs and the wires and be done with it.

 

Without the heat shields it would have been a breeze. As it was, I took the skin off my arms and my knuckles. Top tip: get a swivel

Three weeks on it doesn't seem so bad

 

No heat shields on the 99, it really is easy. Now you gotta decide on what plugs and wires. That's a whole other search.

 

After the many replies and great web sites to visit and get the whole skinny on what to use and what to disconnect to make it easier I have purchased the 'new' Delco iridium plugs as recommended by GM; I know there are those who prefer NGK or Bosch or etc....... but I just enjoy driving and not kicking it hard to the floor all that often, just once in a while. I am also replacing the wires with the Taylor's Pro version. As several said since I'm going to all this trouble I might as well do everything.

If one trusts the on board computer my 6sp has been getting me 21-22 mpg's in town and close to 30 on the hwy. So who wants a compact? I'm doing OK !! and having fun too.

 

Good Idea. A lot of people running different plugs are also running heads, cams, FI, and do a lot of track time. I replaced mine with the recommended iridium plugs, and some MSD wires. I bought the car with 80,000 on it, and just doing a nice tune up took the car from sounding like a cammed out vette, to sounding like a freaking mouse! I can't complain though, the car idles like it is brand new at 750 rpm, and doesn't stumble anymore. I changed the fuel filter, oil (mobil 1 synthetic), trans fluid (royal purple, and love it), plugs, wires, K&N FIPK, and Magnaflow x-pipe and cat back all within a week. I love the way it sounds now, but I am going to have to at least put a nice cam in it. Soon, I will be starting a thread about what cam to put in a stock headed 99 to give me the best hp, but that will only be after I talk to Formato. Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

 

Great advice in fact I Always use a rubber hose over the plug tip to remove and replace the plug. You can feel where it is and are much less likely to cross thread it when reinstalling the new plug. BIGHANK

 

Thanks to the person who sent me a web site on the procedure and thanks to 'mqqn' for sending me his web site.

The plugs are changed and the wires. Good thing I don't do this for a living. I'd be broke. I'm afraid that #7 proved to be a BEAR and the one by the alternator/generator was not too easy either. PLUS 2 of my plugs were EXTREMELY TIGHT I guess the factory did not put enough anti-seize or because of the cars age - 9 years - they were pretty well locked in. But with a few cuss words and then asking the Lord for help I got them out; I think it was the prayer not the cussing that did it.

I've done the clutch fluid exchange, now the plugs, next the brake fluid flush/change. My son has a 'vacuum' for that purpose so will wait and use what he has instead of the wife pressing pedal and me on the ground opening and closing. At 62 getting up and down has been getting a little harder than it used to be?

Thanks again for the assistance.

 

Hi vettebob2 -

Glad to hear you got it done, and my pleasure providing the web how-to.

Let me know if there is anything that would make that write-up more clear.

best regards -

mqqn (Andy)

 

Just finished swapping out my stock plugs and wires for the GM Red Performance wires and Delco Iridiums.

I take my hat off to all those that can do this swap in one hour!!!

I started on the driver's side and that took me almost 3 hours. Hardest part by far was getting the stock wire boots off the plugs. I could have saved about 20 minutes had I known that the heat shields come off with the boots! Once I got a feel for how they came loose, I just used brute force to get them all off - I was being way too gentle at first. I finally pulled off all the coil packs and AIR flanges - that only took about 10 minutes and made access much easier (on both sides). Passenger side only took me about an hour. Now that I have done it once, I could probably do all 8 in about 2 hours being careful.

I also took the time to clean the valve covers and coil packs, add anti-seize on the plug threads, check the gaps, and put dielectric grease on all 16 boots as well as torque all the plugs to 11-ft/lbs. This Snap-On torque wrench worked great for torquing all 8 plugs with it's 1/4" drive head (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog) - all I did was add a 1/2" x 3/8" adapter between it and my Snap-On swivel Spark Plug socket and there was plenty of room on all 8 plugs - it also really helped to have the torque wrench vibrate and sound a beep when the correct torque was reached, I could then pull the wrench out and read the LCD to double check my torque actually applied - great wrench!!!

All my time was spent getting the old stuff out. Putting in the new plugs and wires was a breeze (including torquing with the above wrench). I have small hands so it was easy for me to start all the plugs back in without any socket. Every single thing I thought would be hard, was easy and vice-versa.

Car runs noticeably smoother and quieter - especially at idle.