I am looking forward to 5th wheel test results. For many reasons, a G-tech is not a valid data source for stopping distance.

I don't follow how anyone can do serious brake development and testing without a 5th wheel or differential GPS. If there are two different rear calipers to test, how can they be compared without a totally accurate measuring system?

 

Better brakes allow you to stay closer to the limit of adhesion.

Its like a long wrench is better than a short one to bust a bolt. When you do break the bolt, you have a finer line.

Its like the real stick racers can bust better 60' with more gear in the back, makes it easier to stay to the limit of adhesion.

Just think about it.

 

just to chime in another oh two on this subject, there is no question that adjusting the brake bias on a C5 will allow for better control under maximum braking, and shorter stopping distances.
imho, brake mods for a street only driven C5 are a waste of time/money. anyone that is pushing the evelope that hard on public roads is insane and needs wayyyy more help than bigger brakes :)
for road course C5's, than brakes are key, and the stock ones, while amazing for a stock street car, are the weak link. in my lowered, corner weighted, brake bias balanced, ducted (4) on track tires FRC, with aggressive race pads (all 4) and the rest (blah blah blah), I decelerate equal to any other car on track, and thats with stock calipers/rotors, which are consumables, and I go thru at a rediculous rate. I'm sure I would've spent no more in total over these last 3 years if I had bit the bullet and gone for the big brake upgrade at the start, but tire size/brand considerations led me to stay with the stock rotors, since I was using GS wheels on track... so that's my "story/storey" :)
there was quite a noticable difference tween b4/after with balancing the bias more to the rear.. very worthwhile for a track car..
there's nuthin like 100% maximum braking as very late as possible in all those spots, many is the time Porsche (& other) drivers have mentioned to me in the pits "man, your car stops as good as mine, for sure..." unsolicited, it's always nice to get the compliments, always make sure I return em..
I do have some fade issues that the other guys don't, but it's pretty rare that that accounts for too much.. I'd rather not have any, but it's a management thang..
one trivia ie, I have great in car video of racing a Viper at Mission, and for 10 minutes he's holding me off, his lead pretty constant, lil variance as we get around traffic, and then he Totally fails to negeoiate the hair pin at the end of the main straight, just toasts his brakes and off he goes, classic, I waved as I went by, he'd gotten it facing towards the track...
also, I've seen that going to bigger back brakes leads into changing the m/c and getting more out of warranty if thats an issue for some street only cars..

shiny side up,
David

 

Hi Guys,

Heat, Traction and Treadware values are the standards the valuation of a tire. Look at the side of your tire and you'll see a set of three values (numbers/letters). To get treadware you have to give up traction and life and so on. A perfect tire will have high and very close ratings in all three values but until technology gets MUCH better we still have to pick and choose what's best for our individual application.

There SOOO MANY factors that affect the TIRE's capabilities it's literally limitless. Once you consider the tires traction properties you have to completely understand the contact patch. How much tread is actually touching the ground while static and how much under forced expansion. A RunCrap doesn't expand on it's contact patch very much due to the stiff sidewall and it's abillity to run without air. If you test a F1 on a car with 35lbs of pressure and then at 25lbs you'de find a dramatic difference in the contact patch and subsquent stopping ability.

Comparing RunCraps to F1-Supercar tires won't work due to #1-the tire properties and #2-the tire size and #3-the contact patch.

Alignment also makes a huge difference. An agressive track alignment usually hurts straight line braking over trail braking (braking through a turn).

I've tested with Autocross Hoosiers that are DESIGNED to have very low treadlife. You would think that these would be awesome for testing braking distances but in some case SO MUCH RUBBER would sluff from the tire that while in ABS there would be hundreds of 12" skid marks but you never heard the tires squeal at all.

IMHO, the only way to do a resonable test is by taking BRAND NEW Z06's and putting aftermarket brakes on some and then doing similar tests that allow a mean to be determined. Some tests lean more in favor of BIG BRAKES like after 30 HARD laps on a track and some need to lean towards stock brakes like panic braking from 30 to 0 mph. Do repeated straight line test and then average the results and consider everything.

But, I'm happy to offer my car for any test.

Regards.

 

FWIW, A close personal friend of mine has the Alcon/Baer package like the one shown above on his LPE TT Coupe and while they're pretty (and pretty expensive, something like $10,000+) my car will stop better than his under any circumstances. He's driven my car and he agrees.

Granted, there are differences like his car is heavier but he also has much larger tires (car's tubbed) buy hey. That's the "brakes". :):):)

Out,

 

I would love to get the set but I think that they would not fit CCW wheels. John told me that he was doing some tests but I don't know what the outcome was.

 

Porsche brakes are also worth checking out. Ultimate Garage sells Movit brakes systems here in the U.S. for the Corvette. The price is pretty good, and best of all, replacement pads and rotors won't kill you. They're "cross-drilled" but it's actually cast into the rotor so it won't crack.

Check out http://www.ultimategarage.com for more info.

Mike :flag

 

Mike Schriber,

For the price they are charging for the Porsche brakes, I think I will stick with Baer's 6 and 4 piston set-ups and I know I will stop faster and get better performance.

Since the prices are so close, this is kind of a no brainer.

Shawn

 

Shawn! How much are replacement front rotors for the Baer system? What about pads?

Thanks!

Mike :flag

 

Mike Schriber,

First off, I am going to install the slotted only rotors so there is no chance of any cracking.

This way, I won't have to worry about replacing the rotors due to hard driving.

If you do crack a rotor which is very difficult on a Baer Extreme plus and Pro plus system, it would cost: $200.00 for a new rotor.

Pads and rotors will be stocked by Baer at all times. Pads will be cheaper than most replacement pads.

Shawn

 

Dilusi,

I know that you are no longer the owner, but can you address the performance of the Stage II brake upgrade for the C5. I believe this is the kit that has the larger two piece rotors in the back and front. How does it perform in regards to overall balance, nose-dive, braking distance. I am not looking for an all out package, just something that performs a notch above stock and good pedal feel at start-up and the occasional trip around the track.

thanks,

john

 

Hey John,

The Stage II kit is basically an upgrade in rotor diameter and quality. The front rotors are 14" and the rears will be 13.3" and both will use your factory caliper and pads of your choice along with a relocation bracket for your calipers. You will have to have 18" wheels to clear the larger overall diameter but the rotor will completely FILL the under wheel barrel.

For this kit I recommend using SS lines and pads of your choice. A pad like PFC 93 front and 90 rear will be fully race capable and are friendly to the rotors.

A combination like this is definitely a STEP over stock as the rotors are much better quality allowing excellent heat dissipation and subsequent life span. You can also mack out the looks with all of the fancy smancy stuff.

The kit has a parking brake and should cause NO problems with ABS, bias or other electronic systems.

You'll get better braking, looks and life.

This kit has been under review by SCCA for use in World Challenge classes allowing ABS where most aftermarket kits require an ABS disable.

Regards,

 

Did you work out anyway to get these to work with CCW's ??????

 

The Stage I and Stage II are actually the same clearance as stock but the Stage II will require 18" wheels. Most CCW's should clear.

Regards,

 

I would be willing to get a set if the CCW wheels were confirmed to clear. :yesnod: