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7 year old thread but if anyone wants to know where the oil change nut and filter is:
Hey thank you for posting this pic cause it still helps a lot. I no longer want the dealer to do my oil changed and trying to get knowledge and ideas for lifting the car but you pic helped a lot showing how close the drain plug is.
Wow this isn't rocket science. two 2x8 stacked on top of each other one shorter than the other and blocked at the end to keep the car from rolling fwd (Ramps). take 2 2x6x20 boards to jack the car up on the front and back supported by jack stands. Place the stands directly under the front and read cross members inside of the A arm. Getting the car in the air not only makes it easy to change the oil, it's high enough to check everything else under the car. Tranny fluid, rear end, fuel filter, exhaust, starter ground etc. If the car has a leak, that's where you'll find it. It's cheap and easy.
I'm a wrencher for life, but I have to say Vettes make me cringe when it come time to do work. I built a set of 2 x 12" stacked ramps for the front and one for the back and while the front is easy to get up, I had two occasions where I shot the rear ramps out from under the car. I got lucky and nothing was hurt but my blood pressure.
After that experience, I decided to try jacking pucks. I use the 2 x 12" ramps for the front and use the jack pucks under the rear to get the 2 x 12" ramps under the rear tires. This gives me enough room to get a jack under the rear cross member.
All that said, I think I am headed towards a set of race ramps. I want a lift, but my garage just doesn't fit something like that. I would imagine rolling up on the race ramps and using the jacking pucks to lift the rear enough to get the 2 x 12" ramps under the wheels allowing me enough room to lift the rear by the cross member will work for 99% of my maintenance.
...All that said, I think I am headed towards a set of race ramps. I want a lift, but my garage just doesn't fit something like that. I would imagine rolling up on the race ramps and using the jacking pucks to lift the rear enough to get the 2 x 12" ramps under the wheels allowing me enough room to lift the rear by the cross member will work for 99% of my maintenance.
Not that I'm recommending it, due to potential liability issues, but I've been using patio blocks, instead of the typical concrete block, as "seu318" is using, for DECADES. The advantage of the patio blocks, is that they're SOLID. Yeah, if you drop them, they most likely will break, but if you handle them in a reasonable manner, they're pretty inert and stable.