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well,not really a problem,but my volts readings on DIC and the fuse box inside the car were about 0.6-0.7 V lower than at the battery.When driving for a while it would go to 12.9V.After checking and cleaning all connections I realized that the battery supplies the underhood fuse box and FROM THERE another cable goes to the IPC fuses inside.So,that short line from battery to underhood box carries the full load of the car (both fuse boxes).I moved the cable supplieing the IPC from the underhood box directly to the battery...and bingo...done
Post up pics, I bet this would solve LOTS of our problems! Now the question is, are you bypassing any fuses by doing this? If so, I see a 700+amp potential problem!
Post up pics, I bet this would solve LOTS of our problems! Now the question is, are you bypassing any fuses by doing this? If so, I see a 700+amp potential problem!
no fuses are bypassed (I have master in el. eng...lol)
but,seriously,if you consider that when it's hot,the resistance goes up big time and the whole electric load of the car goes through ONE wire from the battery to the UEC and than distributed further....no wonder we have a voltage drops everywere but especially on components that are supplied from the IPC...