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Major H/C/I Upgrades - Experience Wanted

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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 11:38 AM
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Scroll to the end. Current updates, build process, issues, pictures, video available starting on page 3.

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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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Sounds like it's going to be a killer setup, though having read about dozens of H/C setups, that's the first time I've seen a fuel pump as part of the upgrade.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DT
Sounds like it's going to be a killer setup, though having read about dozens of H/C setups, that's the first time I've seen a fuel pump as part of the upgrade.
Might have missed it, but with new pump and 30# injectors, you'll need a tune right away.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 01:46 PM
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I'm kinda close to your mods. Not all is in sig.

With stock injectors, I was tapped out nearing redline. Thus I needed the SVO 30's, but did not need the fuel pump. I put out 404 rwhp on a mustang dyno right after the mod, and LG told me I was leaving about 25 rwhp on the table. I have done a bit of tuning since with HPTuners, but have not gone back to re-dyno. She runs pretty strong.

Have fun.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 01:57 PM
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I hope you mean LS2 chain, not LS1. The LS2 is a bit more stouter than the LS1.

Turn it over by hand after putting the rockers on, you don't want to find out latter that you have valve clearance issues.

Get the front cover gasket and front oil seal. Maybe the C6 power steering pulley as well. Maybe think of getting the ARP crank bolt.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 04:57 PM
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If you look in my sig, you'll see I have many or similar parts. No need for the fuel pump, unless you already need one. You may want to have the 92mm intake ported and then a tune. You'l have to tune the car when you're done. Also like the above said, get a LS2 chain. It's a little stronger. I also went with Caddie lifters and a set of rockers (yella terra). I forgot whether you had underdrive pulley on the list, but that that will free up a few more ponies. Good luck with your build!!

Jason
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by MattB
I hope you mean LS2 chain, not LS1. The LS2 is a bit more stouter than the LS1.

Turn it over by hand after putting the rockers on, you don't want to find out latter that you have valve clearance issues.

.

I got a new LS1 chain from GM parts direct. This one has lasted me 93k without issue (at least 3,000 miles at WOT!!!) I figured what the hay and just got a duplicate. I'll look into that. I have an "in-law" who is an auto technician and said I should consider a bigger fuel pump. I said "they put real parts in Corvettes"...he's a Mustang nut.

I have read on numerous threads that the YT UL RRs don't have clearance issues on the AFR's. I will soon find out I suppose. This will be an interesting thread to stay posted on around July 4th. I'll have a dyno video on top of street thrashing. I drive my Vette the way it was meant to be; I'm 24 yrs old. Although, my riding partner is in his 60's and his A4 thinks it's a MN6 with the way he drives!!!

Thanks for the tips; I'm taking notes and ready for plenty more.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by spiral04
If you look in my sig, you'll see I have many or similar parts. No need for the fuel pump, unless you already need one. You may want to have the 92mm intake ported and then a tune. You'l have to tune the car when you're done. Also like the above said, get a LS2 chain. It's a little stronger. I also went with Caddie lifters and a set of rockers (yella terra). I forgot whether you had underdrive pulley on the list, but that that will free up a few more ponies. Good luck with your build!!

Jason
I've read about the Cadillac race lifters. They seem ideal if you plan to seen some oval track time (high RPM for extended durations). Call me stupid but; where do the lifters sit in the valve train and what do they do? I have the UD pulley, that sucker was bigger than I thought it would be.

Looking at your sig: How do the Baer +2 rotors look? Do they actually work better or are they just for show? I went to West Coast Corvettes store while I was in CA and picked them up from the shelf. Massive metal plates are what they look like. I'm sure it looks sweet on the ride.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by AFTRBRNR
How do the Baer +2 rotors look? Do they actually work better or are they just for show?
The rotors look sweet and I believe they're actually lighter in weight than stock. I don't think the braking is really better though, more for show. I had bought a cheap set of rotors and they split, love the Baer's for what they are. As for the lifters, I'm retarded althought they sit in a tray. I won't speculate any further on it though.

Jason
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 06:00 PM
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Default Camshaft Idle

I've seen tons of G5X3 camshaft videos. They all seem to be different on each Vette. What Idle are people chosing? I'm thinking of going about 850-900. What's par for a big cam like that?

I can't wait to show bigger dyno numbers than the local pullied Cobra clan on my N/A. When my car had 330/330 it was giving them all they could handle. The new R/T 10 Viper wasn't doing much better either. I'm shooting for as close to 500/450 as possible...they will all have to turn around to go back and pick up their doors when I'm done blowing them off the hinges

The local F-body clan is also spying my ride after an eye witness spotted AFRs sitting in the garage. They are anxious like little kids on X-mas eve! Meanwhile the local Corvette crew are buying their tickets now to go for a ride.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AFTRBRNR
I've read about the Cadillac race lifters. They seem ideal if you plan to seen some oval track time (high RPM for extended durations). Call me stupid but; where do the lifters sit in the valve train and what do they do? I have the UD pulley, that sucker was bigger than I thought it would be.
The lifters ride on the cam shaft. They push up the push rods. There are plastic holders that hold them in place, you will see them as soon as you take the heads off.

The valve clearance issues are more with the duration of the cam and the heads and thinner gasket. Its complicated, and I'm no expert so I can't tell if you might have issues. But, maybe ask on www.ls1tech.com, a lot of good info there. FYI, the rockers will not have much impact on valve clearance either since you stayed at the 1.7 ratio. What happens as I see it is that the valves are open longer, i.e. duration, and the piston is coming up during that time. If the valve is too close and still in its open duration the piston may come into contact with it. Where a shorter duration cam the valve would be closed at that time. Lift on the cam has a lot of impact as well, no pun intended

Also, milled heads and a thinner gasket bring the valves closer to the piston top, so the whole range of motion of the valves is closer to the piston. Which could then put the two on a collision course. If you had a big cam that worked with stock heads and gasket, you could cause big problems milling the heads too much and getting too thin of a head gasket, as now you are changing the timing of the valve duration and the piston motion.

Also, you may want to get a comp cams push rod length checker. Having too long of push rods can keep the valves from seating, and too short will keep them from opening as they should. Its only a $20 tool.

I lost patience on my winter mods and went with a stock head gasket and push rods on my G5X1 cam, didn't have the time to learn how to check the valve clearance. However, I've heard good things about getting the thinner gasket and wish I had the time to do it.

I think you will like the G5X3 cam

The bear rotors have some advantages, but stopping power is in the tires. Dusty pads will also give more initial bite. They do LOOK great
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by AFTRBRNR
I've seen tons of G5X3 camshaft videos. They all seem to be different on each Vette. What Idle are people chosing? I'm thinking of going about 850-900. What's par for a big cam like that?

I can't wait to show bigger dyno numbers than the local pullied Cobra clan on my N/A. When my car had 330/330 it was giving them all they could handle. The new R/T 10 Viper wasn't doing much better either. I'm shooting for as close to 500/450 as possible...they will all have to turn around to go back and pick up their doors when I'm done blowing them off the hinges

The local F-body clan is also spying my ride after an eye witness spotted AFRs sitting in the garage. They are anxious like little kids on X-mas eve! Meanwhile the local Corvette crew are buying their tickets now to go for a ride.



If you really want perma grin, find a HPDE near you.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 07:14 PM
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A few suggestions:

1. Make sure you verify piston to valve clearance, simply turning it over an not having contact is not good enough.
2. You have heads and rockers, buy some checking springs and swap out two springs and do the wipe pattern on the work bench, much easier. See here: Link
3. Did you upgrade to the 8019 valve springs?
4. Replacement LS1 chain is the LS2 chain, you will see the difference when you get it apart. If they are identical, stop and get new chain.
5. Be warned, after you set up the wipe, your pushrods may be too short.
6. Personally, I would swap shims in the oil pump. I believe you have the red shim installed as new with a blue one that came with it. The blue one will provide closer to stock oil pressure.
7. Cleaning the block is going to take time, plan for it. It must be spotless for Cometics.

You have many of the same parts that I have in my workbench. What are you using for a procedure?

Last edited by vettenuts; Jun 17, 2008 at 07:20 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MattB


If you really want perma grin, find a HPDE near you.


Stupid moment...?HPDE?
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
A few suggestions:

1. Make sure you verify piston to valve clearance, simply turning it over an not having contact is not good enough.
2. You have heads and rockers, buy some checking springs and swap out two springs and do the wipe pattern on the work bench, much easier. See here: Link
3. Did you upgrade to the 8019 valve springs?
4. Replacement LS1 chain is the LS2 chain, you will see the difference when you get it apart. If they are identical, stop and get new chain.
5. Be warned, after you set up the wipe, your pushrods may be too short.
6. Personally, I would swap shims in the oil pump. I believe you have the red shim installed as new with a blue one that came with it. The blue one will provide closer to stock oil pressure.
7. Cleaning the block is going to take time, plan for it. It must be spotless for Cometics.

You have many of the same parts that I have in my workbench. What are you using for a procedure?

I don't know what springs are on exactly by part number. They are Comp Cams dual springs that come with LG Motorsports H/C package so I assume they are good.

So you're saying the LS1 chain is garbage for the new setup? Should I assume that this new set up will be a bit more than it can handle?

I'm not doing any of the work myself. I know a very talented mechanic who is also teaches his craft at a local college. He is performing the "surgery" on the motor and has installed all of my drivetrain upgrades already. He can have all of this done in one weekend. <One of those really cool guys that has a garage as big as his house>

The oil pump I purchased claims like 18% more flow than stock. It has a red spring pre-installed to up the PSI by 10 or so. A white spring comes with the kit that will keep it at stock. You think stock PSI would favor this stuff?

I'm no tech buff but I do lots and lots of homework before I slap green down on parts. From what I've seen; this setup should work without issues. I definately agree with you that there is cause for worry with the milled heads and smaller gasket. I'm trying to boost compression for more torque. The H/C package that I purchased from LG comes with springs and rods and they quote that it will work perfectly with stock rollers. That is why I got the stock size YTs (1.7) in hopes that it's the same effect. Am I correct to assume that this will all work? I also got the Cometics from the same guy that sold the H/C kit to me and he was all for it.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 09:31 PM
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See below

Originally Posted by AFTRBRNR
I don't know what springs are on exactly by part number. They are Comp Cams dual springs that come with LG Motorsports H/C package so I assume they are good.

Likely Comp 921's then.

So you're saying the LS1 chain is garbage for the new setup? Should I assume that this new set up will be a bit more than it can handle?

No, the original LS1 chain can no longer be purchased unless the dealer had one laying on the shelf. It was superseded by the LS2 chain a few years ago. My suggestion was to compare the two just to make sure you have the newer chain. It will be obvious.


I'm not doing any of the work myself. I know a very talented mechanic who is also teaches his craft at a local college. He is performing the "surgery" on the motor and has installed all of my drivetrain upgrades already. He can have all of this done in one weekend. <One of those really cool guys that has a garage as big as his house>

The oil pump I purchased claims like 18% more flow than stock. It has a red spring pre-installed to up the PSI by 10 or so. A white spring comes with the kit that will keep it at stock. You think stock PSI would favor this stuff?

The LSx motors tends to put a lot of oil up in the valve cover area, higher volume/pressure will put more up there.

I'm no tech buff but I do lots and lots of homework before I slap green down on parts. From what I've seen; this setup should work without issues. I definately agree with you that there is cause for worry with the milled heads and smaller gasket. I'm trying to boost compression for more torque. The H/C package that I purchased from LG comes with springs and rods and they quote that it will work perfectly with stock rollers. That is why I got the stock size YTs (1.7) in hopes that it's the same effect. Am I correct to assume that this will all work? I also got the Cometics from the same guy that sold the H/C kit to me and he was all for it.

Your two biggest question marks in my mind are the PTV may be below minimums and setting your wipe will likely result in longer pushrods. I think he will find that the correct wipe pattern will necessitate a shim, which in turn will lengthen pushrod by about 160% of the shim thickness.

These are not "Oh crap I screwed up things", but rather assembly details to be aware of going in. Not sure it can be done in one weekend, especially if the rockers need to be shimmed which they likely will. Did you read my link, Tony provides some input in the later posts on rocker setup with AFR heads.

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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 09:56 PM
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vettenuts-

Outstanding write up on the valvetrain. I can now say that I understand what all that stuff does now. I'll make mention of this to my "associate" and see if this is what he planned to do. Sounds like it could take a couple of hours to do both sides correctly. I just hope I got hooked up with the right size push rods because they don't grow on trees. Here's to you

PS. Do my comp cams springs make the grade for this application? My end goal is to bump my rev limiter to 7,000RPM.

I have PCV upgrades with a catch can and an oil breather filter. Still stock PSI for oil pump? I noticed an increase in oil PSI when I switched my gear ratio to 3.73. Is that normal? Since then, the car drinks oil at an incredible pace. About 2 quarts per 800 miles.

That's why I'm putting every oil saving mod I can find in this thing. I can't wait to see what the inside of my LS6 manifold looks like; I'm guessing ***** Wonka's Chocolate Factory.
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To Major H/C/I Upgrades - Experience Wanted

Old Jun 17, 2008 | 11:42 PM
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i have just about everything you mentioned done. we didnt need a fuel pump but ours did just go out and needed replacement.

our idle is at 1000 and still sounds good. and you will have a street legal rocket ship, and a loud one.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by big red vette
i have just about everything you mentioned done. we didnt need a fuel pump but ours did just go out and needed replacement.

our idle is at 1000 and still sounds good. and you will have a street legal rocket ship, and a loud one.

Loud is definately what I'm looking for. Not the F-body loud which is usually obnoxious. I want crisp, refined distinctness that Vettes have.

How are the street manners on your set up with the A4? I hear it's all in the tune...speaking of which, I wonder why your numbers aren't at least 30 higher than what they are.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 01:13 AM
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imho you are throwing away a lot of money if you don't replace your lifters. I had a G5X-3 cam but now it's a lamp!!
http://www.pbase.com/callaway/parts

I was only running 404 rwhp at the time. Several lifters were chewed up and one broke all together. I feel the Z06 lifters are okay at best, I'm using morel racing lifters in my new engine. The caddy racing lifters should serve you fine especially if you are bumping the limiter to 7,000rpm
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