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Was crusing on highway felt the car start to miss fire really bad .....got luck and made it to the exit now the Car turns over, but wont start only way i can get it to fire is if i hold the gas pedal half way to the floor.....it starts and runs like crap as long as i play with the throttle then backfires and dies....it seem the only code i get is p0108.....any advice
Check to make sure your intake didn't come loose after the MAF?
Check to make sure you have fuel pressure
-schrader valve on fuel rail - looks like valve stem)
Check to make sure you have spark
-pull each wire and lay it close, watch for arc
or
-extreme bad *** method: grab that wire and hold on for the "bite"
Check Compression / Check timing chain. If timing is off, it might fire back through the intake (remove intake hose and watch for flames).
seems i have no spark at at least 4 coils....what would cause it....need to check fuel pressure.....car starts then dies....smells really strong of fuel so im thinking its a spark issue
Theres a ground wire on the BACK of the drivers side head. Its ground for the coils and injectors. There are TWO wires terminated into ONE ground eyelet. Make sure that ground is in good shape and tight.
There is also a place at the rear of the manifold where the engine wiring harness bends around a metal bracket. Check that area for cuts and damaged wiring.
checked fuel pressure and it looks fine at 52 at key on and 60psi when she runs...checked spark and i have none on any of the coils used a tool to check for spark.....
so far the car cranks .... sometimes it sounds like it wants to fire...1 out of 10 times it will fire and run like junk for 5 seconds then die....then back to no spark....any ideas on where to go next....crank sensor???cam sensor???I also pulled all the plug to check for any signs of damage and they all look fine and also unplugged maf with same results
Bill you were spot on...was poking around engine bay with my test light ...first started testing ground on passenger side ...tested the coilpack screws,valvecovers,heads,all kinds of stuff all were ok for ground...then i started on the drivers side ....checked the head ground was good....check valve cover NO GROUND....checked coil pack frame ...again NO GROUND.....check altenator bracket ground was ok....wedged a piece of metel between bracket and valve cover ...checked grounds again and they are know okay....car started right away.thanks alot....now i just have to figure out how and what happen considering the car ran fine for 10days....did something come loose???Also can i just ground the coil pack bracket to a new ground with a nice wire???what else is attached to g107??....
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Theres a ground wire on the BACK of the drivers side head. Its ground for the coils and injectors. There are TWO wires terminated into ONE ground eyelet. Make sure that ground is in good shape and tight.
There is also a place at the rear of the manifold where the engine wiring harness bends around a metal bracket. Check that area for cuts and damaged wiring.
spoke to soon.....the car now starts every time but will only run for 5 sec and when die....still doesnt run smooth and if i paly with the pedal it will continue to run....and i do get alot of unburned gas out the back....think im going to check each coil again
Pull that ground eyelet OFF the head and CAREFULLY examine the CRIMP that secures the wires to the eyelet. I bet that its compromised.
If I were you,,, I would solder the wires to the eyelet! Thats the FIRST thing that I would check. If grounding the coil to the block fixed the issue,,,the connection at the head ground point is not making good contact.
remove the coil connector and measure from the GROUND wire inside the connector to the block . Wiggle the head ground connection wires to see it the resistance reading changes and work from there. Theres a break or high resistance connection some where along that wire and eyelet.
Yep, sounds like the ground issue since you bypassed the regular ground with your test and it worked for a while. Trace the regular ground wire and you will find the source of your problem
added a couple more ground to the coil packs...worked better for a while car ran for 45sec and then just died again...problem seemed to be getting better then all of a sudden back to a no spark condition....
CAR FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was g107 bolt got my mechanic to come over and broke down the problem to him and he looked at these posts ..... he stuck his little hands behind the driver head found the bolt and guess what....it was totally loose.....someone didnt use locktight and forgot to torque it down....anyways hand torqued it and the car fired up and ran great.....only thing id like to know is should i remove the extra grounds i have on both coil pack frames or i really cant go wrong with them...could someone tell me if their drivwer side valve cover is grounded cause without my extra ground wires mine is not grounded....anybody know what size that bolt is..going to try and torque it without removing the intake
thanks all
CAR FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was g107 bolt got my mechanic to come over and broke down the problem to him and he looked at these posts ..... he stuck his little hands behind the driver head found the bolt and guess what....it was totally loose.....someone didnt use locktight and forgot to torque it down....anyways hand torqued it and the car fired up and ran great.....only thing id like to know is should i remove the extra grounds i have on both coil pack frames or i really cant go wrong with them...could someone tell me if their drivwer side valve cover is grounded cause without my extra ground wires mine is not grounded....anybody know what size that bolt is..going to try and torque it without removing the intake
thanks all
If you read it to battery ground,,,,you will see that it isnt a PROPER ground!:thumbs. There will be more resistance than it should be. Good grounds will read 0-2 ohms. Closer to zero is better! So, if G-107 is made up correctly, remove all added grounds and SLEEP PEACEFULLY!