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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 08:58 PM
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Default CAM install time.

Hey guys. Im looking at doing a cam install now instead od the SC. I was wondering how long should it take to have the CAM installed. I am just trying to figure about how much money it will cost for the install. I am looking at the England Green kit. Thanks Also is there a good head that you guys recommend for his whiplash cam. For those who are running this cam how is it? Do you recommend it. THANKS AGAIN.
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 09:07 PM
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i just had mine installed in my zo6 and it is great
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 10:08 PM
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How much did it cost for the install?
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 11:37 PM
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Shop told me it calls for about 20hrs $$$$$$$
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 08:19 AM
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20hrs??? That's nuts! I did my first C5 cam install in less time than that and it included springs and crappy spring replacement tools. I'm in the wrong business!
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 09:30 AM
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Mine Would Have Taken About 8 Hours. That Included Beer Time But I Had To Wait A Day To Get My Valve Seals.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
20hrs??? That's nuts! I did my first C5 cam install in less time than that and it included springs and crappy spring replacement tools. I'm in the wrong business!
I am consdering a DIY cam swap. My experience so far is just installing LT headers and brakes/rotors on my Z06. I really enjoy learning and working on the car, however, would you discourage someone like me to tackle such a project? It is not my daily driver so I can take as long as I need in my garage. I also have HP Tuners and a wideband 02 installed for the necessary tuning. I would not consider myself a "Spaz" with a wrench.

Thanks for any insight.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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^^^^

Go fer it
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 11:29 AM
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It took me way more than 8 hours to do mine. I did the heads, and FAST at the same time, though. I did the install on jackstands, during the winter, and had to kick my wife's car out in the cold for a couple of weeks, because of parts scattered about our tiny two car garage.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by zeevette
It took me way more than 8 hours to do mine. I did the heads, and FAST at the same time, though. I did the install on jackstands, during the winter, and had to kick my wife's car out in the cold for a couple of weeks, because of parts scattered about our tiny two car garage.
Would you do it again?
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by falcon5619
I am consdering a DIY cam swap. My experience so far is just installing LT headers and brakes/rotors on my Z06. I really enjoy learning and working on the car, however, would you discourage someone like me to tackle such a project? It is not my daily driver so I can take as long as I need in my garage. I also have HP Tuners and a wideband 02 installed for the necessary tuning. I would not consider myself a "Spaz" with a wrench.

Thanks for any insight.
I would do it again in a heartbeat. It's not difficult at all. Just time consuming. I actually enjoy working on my toy. Just stay clean and organized.
Here's your instructions! Now get to work!

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 01:06 PM
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Do you really need to pull the heads to change the CAM and springs?

Never mind I see why you have to pull the heads now...

Last edited by SargeZ06; Jun 27, 2008 at 01:08 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 01:13 PM
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Yeah, these cars you don't even have to pull the intake.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 71CanAm
Do you really need to pull the heads to change the CAM and springs?
No, you don't.

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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 01:25 PM
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Aren't the push rods resting on the CAM.

Just pull the push rods?

Last edited by SargeZ06; Jun 27, 2008 at 01:30 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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the pushrods rest in the lifters. in that writeup he went on to do a head swap. if you are not doing that, disregard that part
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 71CanAm
Aren't the rollers under resting on the CAM
Yes, the lifters ride on the cam.

But, they are located and retained in plastic trays, which (when new), grip the lifters quite tightly. Once the rocker arms, pushrods and timing chain are removed, spinning the cam several times will usually push all the lifters up, and the trays will hold them up, allowing the cam to be slid out, and the new cam slid in.

As a security measure, most people slide long wood dowels or metal rods through access holes at the front of the block, which will prevent a lifter from dropping out and into the oil pan (there's a noise you don't want to hear )

An alternative method, some people choose to use 16 pen-style magnets in the pushrod holes in the heads to hold the lifters up in their trays, but that's kind of a tedious way to do it.

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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
Yes, the lifters ride on the cam.

But, they are located and retained in plastic trays, which (when new), grip the lifters quite tightly. Once the rocker arms, pushrods and timing chain are removed, spinning the cam several times will usually push all the lifters up, and the trays will hold them up, allowing the cam to be slid out, and the new cam slid in.

As a security measure, most people slide long wood dowels or metal rods through access holes at the front of the block, which will prevent a lifter from dropping out and into the oil pan (there's a noise you don't want to hear )

An alternative method, some people choose to use 16 pen-style magnets in the pushrod holes in the heads to hold the lifters up in their trays, but that's kind of a tedious way to do it.


Is this the tool you referring to?

http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog/summaries/s108.jpg

They want a $100 for these metal rods. I figure they would be gold plated or something. Anyone have the dimensions on the these for the budget minded?

Thanks.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 01:52 PM
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And spinning the CAM as you install it will take of the lifters correct?

Okay just saw Y2Kvert4me's post. Got it.

Last edited by SargeZ06; Jun 27, 2008 at 01:55 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 71CanAm
And spinning the CAM as you install it will take of the lifters correct?
The lifters will and have to be up and out of the way when the cam swap occurs. The cam bearing bosses are larger than the cam lobes, so if a lifter wasn't completely up, you'd never be able to remove or install the cam. Spinning the cam prior to removal is what will push the lifters up into their trays. Once they are all up, slide cam out, slide cam in, and do it quickly if you are not using the rods, as a lifter could drop out at any time.

5/16" dia wooden dowels about 18" long from Home Depot will serve the same function as those metal rods.
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