ATI Balancer Removal
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,565
Likes: 111
ATI Balancer Removal
Hey Guys,
When I purchased my 99 FRC, it already had an ATI balancer/8-rib pulley setup. I've got to remove it to service the cam bolts. Any tips on how to remove the balancer and what tool to use? I'm assuming the pulley needs to come off first by removing the Torx-head bolts?
Thanks. --Neil
When I purchased my 99 FRC, it already had an ATI balancer/8-rib pulley setup. I've got to remove it to service the cam bolts. Any tips on how to remove the balancer and what tool to use? I'm assuming the pulley needs to come off first by removing the Torx-head bolts?
Thanks. --Neil
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
ATI is a multi-piece balancer. First, remove the balancer body from the hub. Then you need a three bolt puller (large steering wheel puller) to get the tube off. The third piece is the A/C pulley. I haven't pulled mine yet, but that is how I plan to do it. Don't use a 3-jaw puller, you will damage the damper. Here are the installation instructions so you can see how it is installed. I would also discuss with ATI prior to removal.
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,518
Likes: 7
From: Valencia CA
I dont believe you have to remove the dampner section from the hub (at least I didnt without any trouble)....all you need to do is remove the correct three torx head tapered bolts that thread into the front of the hub directly and use those three positions for your flat pigeon toed style puller (what you would use to pull any conventional dampner with threaded holes in the front of it for just that reason). The threads are 3/8 X 16 so you will need three bolts with that thread pitch (super common....they usually have a 9/16 hex head on them). If I get a chance I will take a pic of the dampner I just pulled off my 383 and post it here with the bolts you need to remove backed out of the dampner so you know what's what.
Check in later sometime for that pic....
Tony
Check in later sometime for that pic....
Tony
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,565
Likes: 111
I'm still waiting to receive my T40 'Plus' Torx bit (different from a standard T40 and impossible to find locally), so I haven't done this yet.
Can anyone confirm by this picture which 3 bolt holes to install the puller on? Is it the 3 non-countersunk holes (with no bolts in the pic)?
Can anyone confirm by this picture which 3 bolt holes to install the puller on? Is it the 3 non-countersunk holes (with no bolts in the pic)?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Looking at the photo, the three holes with no bolts in them look like they will work, which I think are the A/C pulley holes. The three with arrows would pull on the outer shell of the damper and likely damage the damper from what I can see in the photo. You need three threaded holes in the hub of the pulley. The assembly is in three pieces. The pieces are hub, damper and A/C pulley. The A/C pulley attaches from the rear and the damper from the front. You need to gain access to three threaded hole equally spaced on the hub itself.
Hope this makes sense.
Hope this makes sense.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,565
Likes: 111
Looking at the photo, the three holes with no bolts in them look like they will work, which I think are the A/C pulley holes. The three with arrows would pull on the outer shell of the damper and likely damage the damper from what I can see in the photo. You need three threaded holes in the hub of the pulley. The assembly is in three pieces. The pieces are hub, damper and A/C pulley. The A/C pulley attaches from the rear and the damper from the front. You need to gain access to three threaded hole equally spaced on the hub itself.
Hope this makes sense.
Hope this makes sense.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Here is a picture of my installation with the damper off of the hub, hopefully it will help. You can see the A/C pulley loosely attached on the back of the hub and if you look closely the threaded holes in the hub itself. The damper is then a very close fit over the top of the hub, mounted from the front.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,565
Likes: 111
The needed tools finally arrived and I was able to remove the balancer this evening without too much hassle. As Tony described, there is no need to pull the balancer off the hub. You only need to remove 3 bolts. With the 'offset hole' at 12 o'clock, you need to remove the bolts located at 1 o'clock, 5 o'clock, and 9 o'clock. These bolts have a T50 Torx head and are approx. 1.25" long. If you remove the bolt and it's 2.25" long, those are the ones holding the AC pulley on and you shouldn't pull on those. I used a balancer remover/installer from Summit Racing (appears identical to the tool offered by ATI) along with ATI's LS1 adaptor shaft. See pics below.
Thanks for the help guys.
Thanks for the help guys.
