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How hot is too hot?

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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 06:46 PM
  #21  
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I have an iron block which retains more heat and the stock cooling system with reprogrammed fans. It runs 199 at all times except in stop and go traffic when it gets to 203 temporarily.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 11:57 PM
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Hmmm... I saw 256 for a minute today... too hot? While on the freeway was at about 243...
It was about 80-85 degrees out...
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 12:30 AM
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You better check for debris in front of the radiator.... That's too hot for 80 deg ambients, IMO.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by gomerjack
Hmmm... I saw 256 for a minute today... too hot? While on the freeway was at about 243...
It was about 80-85 degrees out...
Wayyyy to hot especially for freeway driving. Mine gets around 234F around town and drops to 225F when the fan kicks on. Then it is about 190F on the freeway this and this is with 100 degree temps outside.

Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
You better check for debris in front of the radiator.... That's too hot for 80 deg ambients, IMO.
+1 and also check your thermostat it may be going out. Those where my temps before mine took a crap.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 01:25 AM
  #25  
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Thanks guys I posted a thread on this but yeah, coolant is full, fans are working but temps keep going up. Pops said that the thermostat might be the problem... no debris in front of the radiator... and my scrape guard is on and directed air to the radiator...

If your thermostat is going down does that mean that your car is really overheating or does it just think that its overheating?
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 01:38 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by gomerjack
Thanks guys I posted a thread on this but yeah, coolant is full, fans are working but temps keep going up. Pops said that the thermostat might be the problem... no debris in front of the radiator... and my scrape guard is on and directed air to the radiator...

If your thermostat is going down does that mean that your car is really overheating or does it just think that its overheating?
Oh, it's really overheating. The coolant can't cycle through the radiator, since the route is obstructed. Engine is 256*, rad is way cooler. Not a happy combination
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 01:49 AM
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If your coolant hose is cool to the touch or you don't feel flow I bet it's the thermostat. Go out and check the hose while the car is running and report back. If not then I would venture to say waterpump which is a easy replace. Start with the basics first and then go from there.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 02:01 AM
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Thanks guys, I will check tomorrow... hopefully my extended warranty will cover any necessary repairs... and now I'll do a search but are there any negatives to putting in a 180 thermostat if the thermostat is indeed what needs to be replaced? What is on the car stock?
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 02:09 AM
  #29  
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Tommorow? Take your lazy butt outside or in the garage and check take 2 minutes. Stock is 196 I beleieve the 180 won't do much unless you get your fans programmed. It will still reach it's normal operating temps and work fine though if that's what your asking. Thermostat is very easy to switch out no need to take it in for warranty work.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gomerjack
Thanks guys I posted a thread on this but yeah, coolant is full, fans are working but temps keep going up. Pops said that the thermostat might be the problem... no debris in front of the radiator... and my scrape guard is on and directed air to the radiator...

If your thermostat is going down does that mean that your car is really overheating or does it just think that its overheating?
Take the car in for service .... you're clueless ......

1) The "scrape guard" is an air dam ......

2) the thermostat is NOT what reports engine temperature .... that is the "Engine Coolant Temperature" (ECT) sensor.

3) The thermostat is a mechanical device that determines when coolant should circulate to the radiator. When the thermostat is closed coolant flows only inside the engine ... when it is open coolant circulates through the engine and then through the radiator

4) 180 degree thermostats are a waste of money .... if you need a new thermostat install a stock thermostat.

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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:53 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
You need to go see a tuner and get your fans re-programmed. Your temps are acceptable, but you better make sure you have a proper mix of Dexcool and distilled water and a good cap to keep your boiling point elevated. You may also want to remove the cap off the radiator and condenser and blow the garbage out. You'll be surprised at how much comes out. I programmed my fans to come on at 180 and 190 with a 160° thermostat. Also check the front of the condenser and make sure you don't have any obstructions such as a grocery store baggy. Make sure you also still have the air dam under the car. It is a critical component to forcing air through the radiator.
My tuner installed a 170° T-stat and set my fans to come on earlier when he tuned my car after installing LT's and a Vararam.. My temps are usually around 170-185°
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 12:51 PM
  #32  
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I've had oil temps consistently in the 280's+ and coolant up in the 240's+ for extended periods of time on track with no issues at all.

Keep driving that thing until you get temp warnings, then pull over (if stuck in traffic) or give it some easy cool down driving (if on track).
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 12:00 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
Tommorow? Take your lazy butt outside or in the garage and check take 2 minutes. Stock is 196 I beleieve the 180 won't do much unless you get your fans programmed. It will still reach it's normal operating temps and work fine though if that's what your asking. Thermostat is very easy to switch out no need to take it in for warranty work.
Sure just describe to me which one the coolant hose is.
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 12:29 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BlackZ06
Take the car in for service .... you're clueless ......

1) The "scrape guard" is an air dam ......

2) the thermostat is NOT what reports engine temperature .... that is the "Engine Coolant Temperature" (ECT) sensor.

3) The thermostat is a mechanical device that determines when coolant should circulate to the radiator. When the thermostat is closed coolant flows only inside the engine ... when it is open coolant circulates through the engine and then through the radiator

4) 180 degree thermostats are a waste of money .... if you need a new thermostat install a stock thermostat.

Hahahaha... yeah my engineer/techie friends would agree with the clueless part. I haven't yet learned how to fix cars. I just love driving them.

PS... I have learned a few things on this forum...



I'll learn how to fix cars when I retire!
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 04:26 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by gomerjack
Sure just describe to me which one the coolant hose is.
I'll be honest with you, to many shots of patron tonight to answser but there is only 2 hoses. So try the one by the thermostat and if not try the other one that is the upper coming fron the top of the driver side radiator hose.
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 07:26 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by djengr
This is true. The 50/50 mix will raise the boiling point to 265 F with a 15 psi cap. Just using pure water with a 15 psi cap the boiling point is 250 F. With a 30% coolant and 70% water the boiling and a 15 psi cap is 260 F.

Good luck
Just using pure water and a 15psi cap will boil way before 250F. Mine boiled at 206 degrees will about 85% water and 15% coolant ! I do not recommend this to anyone...I had forgot to change my fluids out after a pressure test. 50/50 is the only way to go !
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 09:14 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by gomerjack
Sure just describe to me which one the coolant hose is.
OK, we'll continue your education ......

Look at the front of the engine ..... you will see several hoses in that area of the engine. There are two large diameter hoses ... one is clearly visible as it goes from the top of the water pump assembly to the right top side of the radiator (the radiator is that finned item just in front of the two cooling fans forward of the engine). The other hose is on the other (left) side and connects the bottom lower corner of the radiator to the lower side of the engine.

Coolant circulates from the bottom of the engine to the top of the engine. When the thermostat is closed (cold engine) the coolant circulates from bottom to top and back to the bottom via the water pump.

Once the coolant is hot enough (usually about 185-190 degrees with a stock thermostat) the thermostat opens aand coolant flows from the top of the engine, via that large upper hose, into the radiator. It then circulates "down" through the radiator, and now cooled enters the bottom of the engine to flow back to the top.

To test for proper coolant flow ....

Start the engine COLD. Set your A/C to OFF .... then watch the temperature gauge, and as you see the temperature approach 200 degrees go and CAREFULLY feel that upper hose. You are feeling to see if it is getting hot (or is hot). After a couple more minutes that upper hose should DEFINATELY be hot. If it is not, it indicates that coolant is not circulating properly. The culprits would be either a stuck thermostat, or a failing water pump impeller.

CAUTION - the two cooling fans can start at any time once the engine is up to temperature. Keep fingers, clothing, etc. clear of the fans at all times.

Class dismissed ....

Last edited by BlackZ06; Jul 10, 2008 at 09:19 AM.
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 10:02 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
I run 225-234 in stop and go traffic and that is normal. On the highway about 192 and this is with stock thermo and fan temps.
My numbers are the same as yours
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 11:39 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by BlackZ06
OK, we'll continue your education ......

Look at the front of the engine ..... you will see several hoses in that area of the engine. There are two large diameter hoses ... one is clearly visible as it goes from the top of the water pump assembly to the right top side of the radiator (the radiator is that finned item just in front of the two cooling fans forward of the engine). The other hose is on the other (left) side and connects the bottom lower corner of the radiator to the lower side of the engine.

Coolant circulates from the bottom of the engine to the top of the engine. When the thermostat is closed (cold engine) the coolant circulates from bottom to top and back to the bottom via the water pump.

Once the coolant is hot enough (usually about 185-190 degrees with a stock thermostat) the thermostat opens aand coolant flows from the top of the engine, via that large upper hose, into the radiator. It then circulates "down" through the radiator, and now cooled enters the bottom of the engine to flow back to the top.

To test for proper coolant flow ....

Start the engine COLD. Set your A/C to OFF .... then watch the temperature gauge, and as you see the temperature approach 200 degrees go and CAREFULLY feel that upper hose. You are feeling to see if it is getting hot (or is hot). After a couple more minutes that upper hose should DEFINATELY be hot. If it is not, it indicates that coolant is not circulating properly. The culprits would be either a stuck thermostat, or a failing water pump impeller.

CAUTION - the two cooling fans can start at any time once the engine is up to temperature. Keep fingers, clothing, etc. clear of the fans at all times.

Class dismissed ....
Awesome! Ok, I will check tomorrow and update. Thank you
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 11:59 PM
  #40  
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Are you guys cleaning the condenser/radiator out with high pressure water sprayers or just a garden hose?
I don't want to mess anything up but all this time my car has been running a little hot but I never really thought that everyone meant "IN" the fins of the pieces...I was more thinking grocery bag blockage is what it took to make a difference...
So without compressed air...should I use a garden hose or will it take higher pressure to blast the stuff out?
Thanks,
Donnie
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