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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 12:57 AM
  #41  
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From: Edmond Ok
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Originally Posted by MotleyDrew
Just using pure water and a 15psi cap will boil way before 250F. Mine boiled at 206 degrees will about 85% water and 15% coolant ! I do not recommend this to anyone...I had forgot to change my fluids out after a pressure test. 50/50 is the only way to go !

Water boils at 212 F at sea level. Yours must be under a vacuum. To find the boiling point of water at 15 PSIG, which is stock cap, you look in the steam tables, and find it at 250F. If you put a 18 PSIG cap on it the boiling point will be higher. A quick scan of the posts I only saw one or two that came close to boiling condition. I would add enough antifreeze to protect you for the conditions you are in. You need the anticorrosion antifoam packages that also come with the antifreeze.

Good luck to the original post.
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 02:18 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 00Corvette
So without compressed air...should I use a garden hose or will it take higher pressure to blast the stuff out?
Thanks,
Donnie
If you can get a straight shot at the radiator & condenser a good stream of water will take most of it out. But, be careful even with a garden hose because if you spay too hard and at a side angle it's possible that you could bend fins over. High pressure compressed air is even more dangerous if not done carefully. Once fins are bent over they are a mess to get straightened back out.
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 04:26 PM
  #43  
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Thanks so much man. That's what I was thinking, I've gone out and checked it out and mine definitely has a ton of little weeds and stuff stuck in tons of the fins...so I gotta get it cleaned out...I'll just try the hose first.
Thanks again,
DZ
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 05:12 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by BlackZ06
OK, we'll continue your education ......

Look at the front of the engine ..... you will see several hoses in that area of the engine. There are two large diameter hoses ... one is clearly visible as it goes from the top of the water pump assembly to the right top side of the radiator (the radiator is that finned item just in front of the two cooling fans forward of the engine). The other hose is on the other (left) side and connects the bottom lower corner of the radiator to the lower side of the engine.

Coolant circulates from the bottom of the engine to the top of the engine. When the thermostat is closed (cold engine) the coolant circulates from bottom to top and back to the bottom via the water pump.

Once the coolant is hot enough (usually about 185-190 degrees with a stock thermostat) the thermostat opens aand coolant flows from the top of the engine, via that large upper hose, into the radiator. It then circulates "down" through the radiator, and now cooled enters the bottom of the engine to flow back to the top.

To test for proper coolant flow ....

Start the engine COLD. Set your A/C to OFF .... then watch the temperature gauge, and as you see the temperature approach 200 degrees go and CAREFULLY feel that upper hose. You are feeling to see if it is getting hot (or is hot). After a couple more minutes that upper hose should DEFINATELY be hot. If it is not, it indicates that coolant is not circulating properly. The culprits would be either a stuck thermostat, or a failing water pump impeller.

CAUTION - the two cooling fans can start at any time once the engine is up to temperature. Keep fingers, clothing, etc. clear of the fans at all times.

Class dismissed ....
So I tried to do as you said... but there's a lot of a couple of hoses that looked right but they didn't seem as thick as I would have thought they should be. There was one thick hose on the left side that was quite hot but also a couple other slightly thinner hoses that were cold. Wish I could know more exactly but I think that the hose that you were referring to was cold but in any case, the car is now at the dealer (thank God extended warranty) and they'll let me know for sure tomorrow...
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 12:13 PM
  #45  
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Hi, does anyone know if the fan temps can be lowered by the dealer and how? I have my car at the dealer, they are putting in a new thermostat and the service manager agreed that Vettes run hotter than he'd like. He owns a couple Vettes himself. He was saying that he would look into putting in a lower thermostat but he thought that only an aftermarket shop could lower the fan temps. He said that he would look into lowering the temps at which the fans come on if I could find out how... Anybody know?
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 02:15 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by gomerjack
Hi, does anyone know if the fan temps can be lowered by the dealer and how? I have my car at the dealer, they are putting in a new thermostat and the service manager agreed that Vettes run hotter than he'd like. He owns a couple Vettes himself. He was saying that he would look into putting in a lower thermostat but he thought that only an aftermarket shop could lower the fan temps. He said that he would look into lowering the temps at which the fans come on if I could find out how... Anybody know?
I don't believe the Tech2 can re-program the fan temperatures .... that's not a function GM would expect to be altered. You need 3rd party software like HPTuners to do it (I don't think EFILive can do it either) .....

It really is unnecessary .... the stock fan temps were thought out pretty carefully by GM Powertrain .... the LSx family of engines are designed to run hotter than a 1960's small block. Get with the times .... this ain't your father's Oldsmobile.

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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 04:11 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by BlackZ06
I don't believe the Tech2 can re-program the fan temperatures .... that's not a function GM would expect to be altered. You need 3rd party software like HPTuners to do it (I don't think EFILive can do it either) .....

It really is unnecessary .... the stock fan temps were thought out pretty carefully by GM Powertrain .... the LSx family of engines are designed to run hotter than a 1960's small block. Get with the times .... this ain't your father's Oldsmobile.

I'm sure you're right but the service manager said that it wouldn't hurt to have the engine run a little cooler - as long as the everything was up to a certain operating temp... He said that a 180/185 thermostat would probably be fine.
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 04:28 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by BlackZ06
I don't believe the Tech2 can re-program the fan temperatures .... that's not a function GM would expect to be altered. You need 3rd party software like HPTuners to do it (I don't think EFILive can do it either) .....


EFILive can do it also!
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 04:44 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by gomerjack
I'm sure you're right but the service manager said that it wouldn't hurt to have the engine run a little cooler - as long as the everything was up to a certain operating temp... He said that a 180/185 thermostat would probably be fine.
A Service Mnager who doesn't know if a Tech2 can change fan settings, and a Servicee Manager who doesn't understand that a 180 thermo buys you nothing ..... yeah ... I'd listen to that guy.

This issue has been beat to death but .....

Your stock thermostat starts opening at 188 degrees, and is at maximum open at 206 degrees.

A "lower" thermostat does not make the engine run "cooler" ... if you put a 50 degree thermostat in there, do you think the coolant is going to be at 50 degrees if you are sitting idling the engine for 10 minutes ?????? No, ultimately it is airflow through the radiator (fans when you are idling) that determines the coolant temperature.

As I said earlier, GM Powertrain did not pick the fan temperatures out of a hat ...... I'd recommend you leave them alone ..... read your Owner's Manual on "Engine Overheat Protection Mode" and you'll understand that the engine isn't HOT until it reaches about265 degrees, and GM has designed a system that will get you to a service location with NO COOLANT in the engine.

UNLAX

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