Valve stem seals..............How much?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: fresno ca
Valve stem seals..............How much?
my vette, 99 coupe drinks oil pretty rapidly, 1qt every 2k miles. It never had this problem until after 55k miles, I now have 75k. I put a small ofiface pcv valve on and didnt notice much difference. I had a comp. test done for the rings and they all checked out great at 150. It was suggested that i look into replacing the valve stem seals .
I realize that all vettes drink/burn oil to one extent or another, and I am also in the process of installing a catch can too.
Any idea whats involved in replacing the valve stem seals, and what can I expect to pay??? and im not planing on going to the stealership to have this done.
thanks
I realize that all vettes drink/burn oil to one extent or another, and I am also in the process of installing a catch can too.
Any idea whats involved in replacing the valve stem seals, and what can I expect to pay??? and im not planing on going to the stealership to have this done.
thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,933
Likes: 30
From: San Rafael CA
my vette, 99 coupe drinks oil pretty rapidly, 1qt every 2k miles. It never had this problem until after 55k miles, I now have 75k. I put a small ofiface pcv valve on and didnt notice much difference. I had a comp. test done for the rings and they all checked out great at 150. It was suggested that i look into replacing the valve stem seals .
I realize that all vettes drink/burn oil to one extent or another, and I am also in the process of installing a catch can too.
Any idea whats involved in replacing the valve stem seals, and what can I expect to pay??? and im not planing on going to the stealership to have this done.
thanks
I realize that all vettes drink/burn oil to one extent or another, and I am also in the process of installing a catch can too.
Any idea whats involved in replacing the valve stem seals, and what can I expect to pay??? and im not planing on going to the stealership to have this done.
thanks
That is TOTALLY NORMAL oil consumption ..... unlax ...... GM's "rule of thumb" for an "oil burner" is 1 quart every 1k miles (or worse) for an LSx engine .....
You're fine, just watch your oil levels and you have nothing to worry about.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: fresno ca
75K miles and your using 1 quart every 2k miles ??????
That is TOTALLY NORMAL oil consumption ..... unlax ...... GM's "rule of thumb" for an "oil burner" is 1 quart every 1k miles (or worse) for an LSx engine .....
You're fine, just watch your oil levels and you have nothing to worry about.
That is TOTALLY NORMAL oil consumption ..... unlax ...... GM's "rule of thumb" for an "oil burner" is 1 quart every 1k miles (or worse) for an LSx engine .....
You're fine, just watch your oil levels and you have nothing to worry about.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,933
Likes: 30
From: San Rafael CA
I dont think thats TOTALLY NORMAL, there any may owners who have no missing oil issues, and if there's something i can do to to fix it , I will. thats just not right to use that much oil. Car is a daily driver. while im in there I think I will upgrade to the L6 valley tray pcv system.
... so yeah .... an all aluminum engine with 75k miles ... one quart per 2k miles is not abnormal.
Again ... your engine ... do what you want.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 538
Likes: 0
From: Edmond Ok
Why are you suspecting the Valve seal? I don't have any experience with replacements, but I think with valve seal wear you would start to get a puff of white/blue exhaust at start up.
Others that know comment.
As far as oil consumption was this a step change in haigher consumption rate or has it been gradully getting worse. Any other changes that might point to a root cause?
Good luck regardless.
Others that know comment.
As far as oil consumption was this a step change in haigher consumption rate or has it been gradully getting worse. Any other changes that might point to a root cause?
Good luck regardless.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
With an air compressor, a spark plug adapter and a spring compression tool, it is fairly easy. The only bit of hassle I had was my choice of spring compressors. The one I bought was not the cheapest but it was not the fancy two-spring-at-once version that's kinda expensive. BTW, I used a 1/4" drive 12mm 6 point deep socket for pushing on the new seals by hand instead of buying a $30 seal installer tool. Just make sure the socket is evenly sitting on the seal (all the way around) before giving it a good push. They went into place fine for me with no damage to the seals at all.
HTH
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Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,526
Likes: 18
From: Santa Fe TX
Have you tried using a thicker oil?
with 75k you should be broken in enough to use 10w40 or maybe even 5w50.
With M1 5w30 or 10w30, My oil would be dark and funky looking by 2000 miles on an oil change. It also used about 1/2 - 1 quart.
Since I changed to 5w50 Mobil one, I don't use any oil and it looks "fresher" longer.
Oil temps don't run as hot either.
My valve stems are "new" because I just put a set of 243 heads on. I don't think that was my issue.
with 75k you should be broken in enough to use 10w40 or maybe even 5w50.
With M1 5w30 or 10w30, My oil would be dark and funky looking by 2000 miles on an oil change. It also used about 1/2 - 1 quart.
Since I changed to 5w50 Mobil one, I don't use any oil and it looks "fresher" longer.
Oil temps don't run as hot either.
My valve stems are "new" because I just put a set of 243 heads on. I don't think that was my issue.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: fresno ca
thanks for all the replies.
Im suspecting the valve seals because when I nail it getting on the freeway, Im sending a smoke screen out the pipes.
have not noticed puff at start up, but there is black marks on the floor of the garage under tailpipes.
did a compression test and all checked out fine.
I think I will bump up to thicker oil too.
any other suggestions, im all ears
Im suspecting the valve seals because when I nail it getting on the freeway, Im sending a smoke screen out the pipes.
have not noticed puff at start up, but there is black marks on the floor of the garage under tailpipes.
did a compression test and all checked out fine.
I think I will bump up to thicker oil too.
any other suggestions, im all ears
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
thanks for all the replies.
Im suspecting the valve seals because when I nail it getting on the freeway, Im sending a smoke screen out the pipes.
have not noticed puff at start up, but there is black marks on the floor of the garage under tailpipes.
did a compression test and all checked out fine.
I think I will bump up to thicker oil too.
any other suggestions, im all ears
Im suspecting the valve seals because when I nail it getting on the freeway, Im sending a smoke screen out the pipes.
have not noticed puff at start up, but there is black marks on the floor of the garage under tailpipes.
did a compression test and all checked out fine.
I think I will bump up to thicker oil too.
any other suggestions, im all ears
BTW, what do your plugs look like? One other thought too, have you looked at checked your A/F ratios?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
It can be checked and/or adjusted by a good tuner.Oh, regarding your question "should be".......A/F ratio will vary somewhat depending on several factors, i.e. temps, rpm, engine load, throttle position, open loop/closed loop operation, etc. That's just one reason why a good tuner can be worth their weight in gold in getting your car running at it's best, barring any mechanical problems of ocurse.
HTH
Last edited by LoneStarFRC; Jul 13, 2008 at 07:30 PM. Reason: added info.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 104
From: Des Moines Iowa
One thing you might keep in mind too is the (good) rule-of-thumb about "smoke" i.e. if it shows up under acceleration it's usually rings, but if it shows up under deceleration, it's usually valve guides and/or seals. The amount of manifold vacuum being the obvious difference.
BTW, what do your plugs look like? One other thought too, have you looked at checked your A/F ratios?
BTW, what do your plugs look like? One other thought too, have you looked at checked your A/F ratios?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
When the valve seals got hard and started letting oil, lots of it by in my '88 Dodge mini van, (twice in 230,000 miles), it would smoke blue when warm and idling, and then leave lots of blue smoke when pulling away from a dead stop. Was burning over a qt. to 500 miles, and then I insalled new valve seals, and no more smoking, no more oil burning. Needed new valve seals every 90,000 miles!
) in the valve covers must have been letting a bunch of oil into the combustion chambers during idle (high manifold vacuum). I'll bet that thing REALLY was a "fogger" on extended deceleration. -------------------------------------------------------------------
gfunk: Sounds like you may benefit from a good catch can as well as a Watts filter (PM Dave68 for info) too. Even if they don't stop actual oil "usage", they keep all that stuff from turning the inside of your intake manifold into an oily "swimming pool".
HTH
Should be a max of $225-$300
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
I came across this thread in searching valve seals. I will be replacing my valve springs and rocker arms and from what I read might as well throw in the valve seals at the time.
LonestarFRC, says to use a 12 mm 6 point deep socket to push the seals in. Sounds simple enough but tell me how do you prepare for the installation. Meaning is there an old seal that must be fished out?
Thanks for any help you can offer,
Jay B
LonestarFRC, says to use a 12 mm 6 point deep socket to push the seals in. Sounds simple enough but tell me how do you prepare for the installation. Meaning is there an old seal that must be fished out?
Thanks for any help you can offer,
Jay B
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,350
Likes: 19
From: In a house
Tuner quote
That guy is smoking crack. They are getting desperate these days and still think its ok to rape a customer. To find a good deal on my clutch install I had to go 3 hours out of my way but then again....I liked Pavlock so much that I ended up with a new 402, hardened trans and hardened diff! So he got all my money just for being reasonable unlike some of the local Vette places looking for a rape job without even enough courtesy as to even spit on the hole!
Hahahahahaha to you over priced bitches.
Flame on
Hahahahahaha to you over priced bitches.
Flame on
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
I came across this thread in searching valve seals. I will be replacing my valve springs and rocker arms and from what I read might as well throw in the valve seals at the time.
LonestarFRC, says to use a 12 mm 6 point deep socket to push the seals in. Sounds simple enough but tell me how do you prepare for the installation. Meaning is there an old seal that must be fished out?
Thanks for any help you can offer,
Jay B
LonestarFRC, says to use a 12 mm 6 point deep socket to push the seals in. Sounds simple enough but tell me how do you prepare for the installation. Meaning is there an old seal that must be fished out?
Thanks for any help you can offer,
Jay B