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Replacing Air Valve for Code 1416

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Old Jul 14, 2008 | 07:19 AM
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Default Replacing Air Valve for Code 1416

I am failing emissions because the 1416 code gets set and I can't make it through all the readiness checks without it coming back on. I have tried the wd40/pb blaster and it the valve still sticks. I have found some good articles about this problem and have read that it is possible to change the valve without removing the intake. For the people that have changed this without taking off the intake, do you have any tips on how to make this easier? For instance best wrench to use to squeeze behind there, etc.
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Old Jul 14, 2008 | 08:49 AM
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You will need to find a wrench that is FLAT, meaning that it doesnt have the customary tilt at the box end. You can also try to slide an open end wrench over the bolt. If I remember correctly, its a 15mm bolt. You do NOT need to remove the bolt. Just LOOSEN it. The bracket for the AIR Check valve is sloted so it will slide up and be free!

It can be done! I recommend that you use an inspection mirror to scope out where the bolt is and maybe use it to guide your wrench in to the correct area. I have picts of the assembly at home (at work) and will post them later if I remember.

BC
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Old Jul 14, 2008 | 09:01 AM
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Hi corvettedoug,
I realize that this reply doesn't answer your question about removing the bank 2 check valve with the intake in place, but I just wanted to let you know what I used to cure the same problem on my 01 last year.

I used GM Top Engine Cleaner #1050002, with good results, to clean the deposits on the check valves. GM parts has it.

Disconnect the A.I.R. pump output lines at the tee connector, (under the washer fluid tank) and pour in a few ounces of the cleaner into both check valve hoses. Then use compressed air to blow the liquid cleaner into the check valves. Let it soak overnight before you run the engine.

Try this first. Good luck.
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Old Jul 14, 2008 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by corvettedoug
I am failing emissions because the 1416 code gets set and I can't make it through all the readiness checks without it coming back on. I have tried the wd40/pb blaster and it the valve still sticks. I have found some good articles about this problem and have read that it is possible to change the valve without removing the intake. For the people that have changed this without taking off the intake, do you have any tips on how to make this easier? For instance best wrench to use to squeeze behind there, etc.
WD40 and blaster will free it, but if it's gunked up, they may not get rid of the gunk.

Try Some carb cleaner + compressed air, then after a few min, wd40 to lubricate. The carb cleaner will eat off the gunk.
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
You will need to find a wrench that is FLAT, meaning that it doesnt have the customary tilt at the box end. You can also try to slide an open end wrench over the bolt. If I remember correctly, its a 15mm bolt. You do NOT need to remove the bolt. Just LOOSEN it. The bracket for the AIR Check valve is sloted so it will slide up and be free!

It can be done! I recommend that you use an inspection mirror to scope out where the bolt is and maybe use it to guide your wrench in to the correct area. I have picts of the assembly at home (at work) and will post them later if I remember.

BC
Thanks for the advice on not removing the whole bolt. That just saved me alot of frusteration trying to get it back on. I have already tried WD40 and PB Blaster on two separate occasisions. Since I have to fix it and retest by next Friday, I will just change the valve.
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 09:57 PM
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I snaked a 16 inch (maybe a little longer) length of 1/4 inch clear tube down the pipe as far as it would go. I think it was pretty close to the valve if not right on it. Then I shot some carb cleaner down the tube. That gets the cleaner right on the valve. I put some tape around the top of the hose where the cleaner wand went in to prevent backsplash. It cleared it up the valve. No more codes for months.
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by corvettedoug
Thanks for the advice on not removing the whole bolt. That just saved me alot of frusteration trying to get it back on. I have already tried WD40 and PB Blaster on two separate occasisions. Since I have to fix it and retest by next Friday, I will just change the valve.
Replacing it at this point is the only real viable option. BTW, may as well do yourself a favor and be SURE to apply some anti-seize to the threads when attaching the new checkvalve(s). Ya just never know when you may have to go after it/them again in the future.
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Old Jul 19, 2008 | 04:49 PM
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So I gave up on trying to change the valve without removing the intake. I couldn't hardly get my hand back behind the engine. I went ahead and removed the intake since I needed to replace my oil pressure sensor anyway. Does anyone have any reccomendations on what type of wrench or socket to use on the bracket that holds the valve to the back? It has been tough to slide anything I have back there.
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Old Jul 19, 2008 | 07:47 PM
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Unfortunately there is no silver bullet on this one, just takes a lot of patience and a few skinned knuckles.
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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 08:15 PM
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From: Roswell GA
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I got the bolt for the air check valve loose. I used a 13mm short well socket with a 1/4 universal and 5-6 inch extension. I bent it into an L and went to the left of the bracket and looped it around. Hope this saves time for the next person.
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