Wimpy A/C, But pressure high?

With R134 systems, there is a low and high pressure switches that will cut off the compressor to save it. I don't know anything about the high and low pressure sides other than the obvious; one is suction and one is pressure and there should be a distinct difference. If the compressor starts coming apart internally, it will plug the orifice and cause the issues as well. I did end up replacing the compressor on mine at 260K miles or so when the clutch pulley bearing started making noise. At the time, it still worked just fine as far as cooling capability.
With R134 systems, there is a low and high pressure switches that will cut off the compressor to save it. I don't know anything about the high and low pressure sides other than the obvious; one is suction and one is pressure and there should be a distinct difference. If the compressor starts coming apart internally, it will plug the orifice and cause the issues as well. I did end up replacing the compressor on mine at 260K miles or so when the clutch pulley bearing started making noise. At the time, it still worked just fine as far as cooling capability.
Where you are a misunderstanding the process a bit is saying that a plugged orifice can cause the issues the op claimed,(high low side pressures and wimpy ac performance). A plugged orifice will do the opposite, it will inhibit the flow of refrigerant, causing the suction,(low), side to have lower pressures because the compressor is still creating suction, but no refrigerant is able to come through, and can go so far as to creat a vacuum condition on the low side and a very low reading on the pressure(high) side. This would also cause the low pressure switch to trip,(30psi), and shut down the compressor to protect it from self destruction from lack of lubrication which is carried through the system by the refrigerant. In the NON Cycling system as on the vette, there is only one safety switch which serves the dual role as both low and high pressure monitoring. There is also a High Pressure blow off valve on the compressor to further protect the system should the High pressure switch fail.
So to summerize,
1,You are absolutely right about the need for a clean condenser.
And the other possibilities are
2, overcharging, which the op has rulled out.
3, Air and wrong chemicals in the system, also ruled out.
4, Broken , but not clogged orifice tube, I personally have not seen that happen yet, but it is a remote possibility.
5, High speed fans not actuating with the AC on, which at some point on a really hot day would trip the High Pressure switch to cycle off the compressor.
6,Bent or broken valves in the compressor.
Unless I've forgotten something the above are pretty much the only reasons for the op's symptoms
Luck To All.
Last edited by bestvettever; Jul 21, 2008 at 02:00 PM.

The "wand" was something which is run by an air compressor I presume. Correct?
Mike






Theres a 3/4" void between the condensor and the radiator! Ive seen grass growing in that GAP!
Clean your condensor & radiator and see if that helps. Thats the FIRST step..
BC
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