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Clutch Master Cylinder Install

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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 12:52 PM
  #1  
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Default Clutch Master Cylinder Install

I have been having problems with my car shifting gears at times and plan on changing the Clutch Master Cylinder first. I know they get real dirty and changing the fluid doesn't always work. I have and Exedy 2 stage clutch and everything had been working fine until 3 weeks ago. Sometimes it goes into gear without any problem and then at other times wants to grind the gears. Do you have any photos of how to change out the Clutch Master Cylinder. Thanks in advance for any help. Gary.
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Old Jul 21, 2008 | 08:55 AM
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I did a google search and found one on a camaro. Thats as close as I got, and it worked fine for me.

Last edited by d.medic; Jul 21, 2008 at 09:29 AM.
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Old Jul 21, 2008 | 08:12 PM
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d.medic thanks for the reply. I also seen the one on a Camaro and thought it would work but with the kind of people we have on this forum I was sure someone had done it before and taken pictures. Thanks for your reply. Gary.
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 12:17 AM
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I don't envy you. It's not as simple as people would leave you to believe. There just isn't any room to work. And there is a roll pin holding the connector to the master that will test your patients.

For grinding gears and hard shifting I'd try changing your fluid in the tranny to Royal Purple Synchromax. It will help.
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 09:18 AM
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never touched the roll pin??

I've swapped out dozens, usually w/ a new slave and clutch

pull the inner fender, undo the clip on the pedal, undo the qd and twist the mc, just note how the line is routed above/below the ground wire
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Doten
never touched the roll pin??

I've swapped out dozens, usually w/ a new slave and clutch

pull the inner fender, undo the clip on the pedal, undo the qd and twist the mc, just note how the line is routed above/below the ground wire
Maybe pulling the inner fender is where I went wrong. I just opened up the access plate which didn't give much room. The clip on the pedal wasn't fun either now that you mention it, problem being the car was 2 feet up in the air and I'm twisted laying on my back under the dash. One of the clutch pedal assist springs popped off and added to the annoyance.

The roll pin on mine held the line to the end of the master. There is also a cotter key holding the roll pin in place. A little o ring went on the end of the line. I also had problems with the disconnect at the fitting for the slave/master and ended up cutting the slave side of the line because the master didn't come with a new line. They tell you it's a 15 minute job from the posts I've read. It ain't.

Last edited by Camjamsdad; Jul 22, 2008 at 10:57 AM. Reason: Spilling
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 11:06 AM
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It is actually pretty easy, assuming you can seperate the slave cylinder line. That was the most difficult part. If you are able to pull the roll pin that holds the line to the end of the master with it on the car, then that might be easier. I couldn't get mine out for some reason.

Then just pull the clip that holds the rod to the pedal. Grab the master and twist it(I believe counterclockwise) and pull it out.

Here is what neds to be seperated (unless you can get the roll pin out easily):



hmmmm...Apparently that is all the pics I have of the clutch system. Thought I had more to show you.
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Old Jul 24, 2008 | 11:25 AM
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fwiw, every GM master I've installed includes the new hyd line

www.gmpartshouse.com Gene will get you the right one
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