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AMW Catch Can O-Ring

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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 09:25 AM
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Default AMW Catch Can O-Ring

Anyone have a source on a replacement o-ring for an AMW catch-can? This is for the large (approx 2 3/4") thin o-ring between the body and the cap.
Thanks

Last edited by LoneStarFRC; Jul 26, 2008 at 06:38 PM. Reason: typo; ack!
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 06:39 PM
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Beuller?

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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 01:20 AM
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TTT
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 02:36 AM
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Hey, Robert,

How are yuh? An o-ring can be a bit tricky to measure as far as its inside diameter. O-ring manufacturers make an o-ring measuring tool that looks like an upside-down cone. You first check a series of slots at the bottom of the reverse cone to see what the o-ring's cross section is. Then you drop the o-ring over the cone point. The line to which the o-ring lines up designates the size of the o-ring, based upon its cross sectional diameter.

I could probably nail its size using my calipers, but I'd have to have the o-ring. If you can somehow measure its thickness and I.D. I can tell you what its size is. You might be able to pick one up through mcmaster.com or a local o-ring distributor. We'd have to guess at its hardness (most are 70 Shore A).

Dave
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 03:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave68
Hey, Robert,

How are yuh? An o-ring can be a bit tricky to measure as far as its inside diameter. O-ring manufacturers make an o-ring measuring tool that looks like an upside-down cone. You first check a series of slots at the bottom of the reverse cone to see what the o-ring's cross section is. Then you drop the o-ring over the cone point. The line to which the o-ring lines up designates the size of the o-ring, based upon its cross sectional diameter.

I could probably nail its size using my calipers, but I'd have to have the o-ring. If you can somehow measure its thickness and I.D. I can tell you what its size is. You might be able to pick one up through mcmaster.com or a local o-ring distributor. We'd have to guess at its hardness (most are 70 Shore A).

Dave
I agree Dave. The o-ring is lost so I didn't have it to measure. I took the measurements on the can and looked at the selection that McMaster has. Even though you have to buy whatever pkg qty they have, it's probably not much more than what I would have to pay for 1 w/shipping, etc from AMW or a one of their retailers, plus now I'll have a few spares.
Looks like a round Buna-N 60mm x 54mm x 3mm. You're right on the Shore durometer too. Stk # 9262K307 will fill up the groove with approx 1.5 compression.
Thanks
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 05:04 AM
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Default Make your own ...........

I make my own diameter O rings in the shop from different thickness / diameter 'rubber' material , like rubber hose reels. You can do the same , just find the correct thickness/ diameter material that is larger than you need . Cut to size and superglue it. Particulary in a non pressure application .
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 07:03 PM
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I've done that before, too, Dave; it takes a bit of practice, but it can work.

Robert, for vacuum pressure applications, a "face" o-ring's inside diameter should hug the I.D. of the groove. Thus, the I.D. and cross section are the two important dimensions. Of course, the o-ring must have a cross-sectional diameter that is larger than the groove depth.

Dave
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave68
An o-ring can be a bit tricky to measure as far as its inside diameter. O-ring manufacturers make an o-ring measuring tool that looks like an upside-down cone. You first check a series of slots at the bottom of the reverse cone to see what the o-ring's cross section is. Then you drop the o-ring over the cone point. The line to which the o-ring lines up designates the size of the o-ring, based upon its cross sectional diameter.
A buddy of mine at work demonstrating a questionable alternate use for an O-ring sizing cone.

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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave68
I've done that before, too, Dave; it takes a bit of practice, but it can work.

Robert, for vacuum pressure applications, a "face" o-ring's inside diameter should hug the I.D. of the groove. Thus, the I.D. and cross section are the two important dimensions. Of course, the o-ring must have a cross-sectional diameter that is larger than the groove depth.

Dave
That's what I was going for. With my digital caliper, I measured the ID "wall" of the groove at exactly 54mm. The groove it sits in measures 2.9mm wide by 2.29mm deep. Hopefully I'll be pretty close with the 3mm choice as the groove depth leaves approx .71mm sticking out above the groove for "compressibility" when the cap gets screwed on. Of course I'm limited somewhat by the available choices of sizes too, and this was as close as I could come up with.
One thing's for sure, if it works out OK I'll have more spares than I'll ever need.
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Patches
A buddy of mine at work demonstrating a questionable alternate use for an O-ring sizing cone.

Good color match for his shirt too.
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Patches
A buddy of mine at work demonstrating a questionable alternate use for an O-ring sizing cone.

Saaaaay, isn't that what we old timers used to call a "Dunce Cap"?

By the way, the o-ring may very well be metric, because the dimesions you measured don't really match up with an inch-sized o-ring. The closest one I could find is a 2-138, but at .103-inch cross-sectional diameter, there's not much "crush" in the groove (only .013"), which is barely adequate.

Last edited by Dave68; Jul 27, 2008 at 11:59 PM.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave68
Saaaaay, isn't that what we old timers used to call a "Dunce Cap"?

By the way, the o-ring may very well be metric, because the dimesions you measured don't really match up with an inch-sized o-ring. The closest one I could find is a 2-138, but at .103-inch cross-sectional diameter, there's not much "crush" in the groove (only .013"), which is barely adequate.
Good news Dave. The o-rings I ordered came in today and they fit the AMW catch-can great. Just a tad bit thicker in cross-section that the originals, but it still compresses fine when you tighten the cap assembly down snug. The precision machine work on the AMWs still continues to amaze me.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:58 PM
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....but not better than Watts' machine work, right?

Seriously, it's good to hear that they work!

Dave
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 01:18 AM
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I know I'm late to this thread but did you ever consider contacting AMW, either to get another o-ring or get the specs?
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by thisMSGgood4me
I know I'm late to this thread but did you ever consider contacting AMW, either to get another o-ring or get the specs?
I touched on that in post #5. The time/cost/handling charge or postage, etc for one o-ring probably wouldn't be too much different than just getting a pack from McMaster. Plus now I have some spares and can maybe help out a fellow forum member in the future that needs one for an AMW can.
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave68
....but not better than Watts' machine work, right?

Seriously, it's good to hear that they work!

Dave
You know, I can honestly say you're right about the quality of the machine work, etc on your aluminum canisters Dave.

First rate.
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dieseldave56
I make my own diameter O rings in the shop from different thickness / diameter 'rubber' material , like rubber hose reels. You can do the same , just find the correct thickness/ diameter material that is larger than you need . Cut to size and superglue it. Particulary in a non pressure application .
If you do this, I've found that it works best if you cut the ends at an angle too, so they're not like a butt joint, but kind of like a mitered joint. More surface area also for the glue to work.

Just a suggestion because it's always worked for me.

Good Luck!
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 03:35 PM
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Good point, although it's always good to remember that cynoacrylates (super glues) are best under pure tension. They don't do so well when subjected to peeling stresses.

Dave
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