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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 10:45 AM
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I was driving my 2003 z06 yesterday and all of a sudden it started running like crap. I pulled the codes and the only new code was p 0300 (Engine misfire). It will restart but it has to be above 2000 rpms and is misfire. It was dark and the car was hot, so I plan on checking the spark plugs and wires. If not that, remove the valve covers. What exactly am I looking for? Any pics? I have heard broken valve springs or rods or lifters? Hopefully this isn't an expensive fix. Can anyone give me advice on what to look for?
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 10:50 AM
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Start simple.. plug wire (s) that may have popped off, connectors to the coil packs, burned wires, cracked plugs. I wouldn't go ripping into the engine until you rule out the topical stuff. Were you racing it or miss a shift?
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 11:03 AM
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no, actually just cruising at 40 mph. I can't recall the last time I've been at 6k rpm
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 11:21 AM
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My '99 threw the same code and acted the same way, 4 valve springs in various stages of breaking. Driving 40 mph and all went to hell at once. Mechanic told me it was probably due to previous over revs and one finally broke. Good luck.
PS, be careful starting it, you might suck a valve.
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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if it happens to be the valve springs, how could I tell if further damage is done. I'm no mechanic, but am able to take off the valve covers and look. Would this be a good time to get a head and cam package from a decent shop because personally most of our local mechanics I would not trust with anything and would probably charge me out the rear.
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 02:40 PM
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ttt
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 08:13 PM
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a simple compression check will show you. Bent valves = low compression.
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 07:57 AM
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I changed my spark plug yesterday. I tried to start it and got the same problem. I opened the valve cover and the valve spring closest to the passenger side had cracked. I took out the pushrod and it was straight. I was able to move the valve up and down through the guide and tied it off where it would not fall in. Do I just need to replace the one valve spring? Help!
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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If one is bad, others are probably close, I'd change them all.
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by kevint21
I changed my spark plug yesterday. I tried to start it and got the same problem. I opened the valve cover and the valve spring closest to the passenger side had cracked. I took out the pushrod and it was straight. I was able to move the valve up and down through the guide and tied it off where it would not fall in. Do I just need to replace the one valve spring? Help!
Good find. Now before you get yourself into trouble by dropping a valve, get an air connection for the cylinder, or employ the TDC method.
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
If one is bad, others are probably close, I'd change them all.

Do it right, or you be here again next week!
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 04:45 PM
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what is tdc? and I was planning on replacing one and driving to have someone take care of the rest and maybe get a cam and heads if my wife would let me. Would this be okay if it were done in the next week or two.
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 04:53 PM
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TDC = Top Dead Center

Which means the piston for that particular cylinder is at the top of it's travel. You put it in this position in this case to catch the valve and keep it from falling into the cylinder.
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 05:35 PM
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thanks,
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 99C5JA1
TDC = Top Dead Center

Which means the piston for that particular cylinder is at the top of it's travel. You put it in this position in this case to catch the valve and keep it from falling into the cylinder.
and fill it with compressed air...
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Todd157k
and fill it with compressed air...
Or rope. I've always held up the valves with a compressor when I've done it, but feeding rope into the cylinder is supposed to work fine.

I've never tried it, but depending on how far the valve drops with the piston at TDC (can't be much) you may be able to compress the spring enough to get the retainer and keepers on there.

Last edited by 99C5JA1; Jul 31, 2008 at 05:01 PM.
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 05:28 PM
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I changed out the valve spring. I borrowed a spring compressor from Autozone for free and used the rope method. The spring was $13 from a local dealership. Everything is running great. Very shortly I want to change out all 16 valve springs. A friend has an A&A Vortech kit that he is taking off of his car in order to sell it. I want to change the valve springs before I purchase it. What should I replace? (Just the springs, or the springs, pushrods, valve spring seals, rocker arms) Any suggestions with an A&A Vortech with the stock z06 cam? Thanks
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 05:56 PM
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Replacing the rest of the springs is a good idea. Since you are keeping the stock cam, the stock valvetrain should be sufficient. I would probably upgrade the valve springs to some nice dual springs for insurance and future mod possibilities. I'd also suggest you install some longtubes along with high flow cats to maximize the A&A setup. Remember although the intake air is pressurized, there is nothing helping the exhaust. And the engine's ability to expel the exhaust gases will ultimately limit it's potential (it can't ingest what it can't expel).
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 06:00 PM
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Thanks, any particular company(valve springs). I already have LG pro longtubes.
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