Pulling M6 Trans without removing Torque Tube?
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From: ATLANTA GA
Pulling M6 Trans without removing Torque Tube?
I know it CAN be done, but im asking is it worth it?
I have to have my freshly rebuilt manual sent back out for an issue, I dont need to replace the clutch or anything..
Would I fight it more than removing the whole unit? Im working totally by myself on the floor And it was hard working the 2 jacks and pullng the whole Assy to the engine.
in theory it would seem not too bad but im just nervous the shift linkage will be a hastle to fight that back in there?
I have to have my freshly rebuilt manual sent back out for an issue, I dont need to replace the clutch or anything..
Would I fight it more than removing the whole unit? Im working totally by myself on the floor And it was hard working the 2 jacks and pullng the whole Assy to the engine.
in theory it would seem not too bad but im just nervous the shift linkage will be a hastle to fight that back in there?
Last edited by vettekidc5; Aug 2, 2008 at 01:19 AM.
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From: Wichita KS
Yes you can but you will still (obviously) need to unbolt the cradle and lower it a but till you can remove the trans/diff from the TT. Good luck, its not all that hard but I would not do it by myself.
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From: ATLANTA GA
lol Ive already had to do this 2 weeks ago, and i have to redo it ! So im sure im confident I can accomplish it..
If i remove it this way I can avoid pulling the long tubes, fooling with that damn slave line and the overall weight of pushing it back under the car while its under jackstands.
If i remove it this way I can avoid pulling the long tubes, fooling with that damn slave line and the overall weight of pushing it back under the car while its under jackstands.
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From: ATLANTA GA
an update to this thread.. It is possible, I just did it.
I removed the exhaust and the tunnel plate, dissassembled the rear suspension componets, and unbolted the diff- I slid it away from the trans as a unit then removed the M6 seperately.
I removed the exhaust and the tunnel plate, dissassembled the rear suspension componets, and unbolted the diff- I slid it away from the trans as a unit then removed the M6 seperately.
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From: South Western Ontario
I did mine that way. Honestly, the torque tube is A LOT easier to get into the clutch without the transmission hanging on it. and the tranny goes into the torque tube really easily.
Peter
Peter
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From: ATLANTA GA
yeah, this seems to be the best meathod for working on the ground.. i used a motorcycle jack for everything and a floor jack to support the torque tube to keep the engine from bending all the way into the firewall.
It seems easier by removing the whole unit but all that weight makes it a struggle. In a shop with a big trans jack, a SMOOTH floor this is a different case. my driveway isnt entirely smooth, and its sloped some.
I found that wiggleing each unit like the last poster said would make the parts remove and install easier.
So a few extra minutes on tear down allowed me to avoid pulling my long tubes and hasleing with getting the TT into the engine. The trans side is much easier to work with. I will be able to install everything my self in 3 parts. I wont have to bleed the clutch, or remove that damn quick connect which isnt exactly "quick" at all to remove either thank god
When I reassemble, im gonna take the 2 nuts off the mount for the diff, install the trans, then the diff, then lift the cradle back under it. Each componet is easy to work with, It seems like more steps but youll find your self moving faster because youll be able to "wiggle" each part untill they slide in, Unlike fighting the whole assembly
It seems easier by removing the whole unit but all that weight makes it a struggle. In a shop with a big trans jack, a SMOOTH floor this is a different case. my driveway isnt entirely smooth, and its sloped some.
I found that wiggleing each unit like the last poster said would make the parts remove and install easier.
So a few extra minutes on tear down allowed me to avoid pulling my long tubes and hasleing with getting the TT into the engine. The trans side is much easier to work with. I will be able to install everything my self in 3 parts. I wont have to bleed the clutch, or remove that damn quick connect which isnt exactly "quick" at all to remove either thank god
When I reassemble, im gonna take the 2 nuts off the mount for the diff, install the trans, then the diff, then lift the cradle back under it. Each componet is easy to work with, It seems like more steps but youll find your self moving faster because youll be able to "wiggle" each part untill they slide in, Unlike fighting the whole assembly
Last edited by vettekidc5; Aug 5, 2008 at 08:32 PM.
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From: In the pit, trying to love someone.
I was able to drop mine with the torque tube and didn't have to touch the headers, I think the only time you need to move the headers out of the way is to get that bottom access panel off if you are changing out the clutch.
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From: ATLANTA GA
I have texas speed longtubes, which are very similar in design to LG streets, but last time I had to pull the passenger one to get the end of the torque tube to drop through the tunnel, the end is flared out where it meets the bellhousing, youll notice the tunnel widens just before the engine.
The headers were blocking the wider part, and I had the car up as high as i could safely do it and i didnt have enough tilt to get it out otherwise.
The headers were blocking the wider part, and I had the car up as high as i could safely do it and i didnt have enough tilt to get it out otherwise.
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Peter
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From: In the pit, trying to love someone.
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From: ATLANTA GA
No you leave the shifter box installed. I took the single torx screw out of it where it connects to the box, and unhooked the linkage off it. and pulled the linkage only.
The box is till on the torque tube.
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From: South Western Ontario
You have to eventually pull the shifter box to re-install unless you get someone to help align the shifter rod as you push the tranny into place. Easiest is to just shove the rod up above the torque tube and then put the shifter on the end after it is installed.
Peter
Peter
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From: ATLANTA GA
ill keep that in mind.. Mine was came right off and the linkage just moved to the side of the TT against the body, it had enough "give" in it with it pushed all the way back to flex out and onto to the ball knuckle shat on the box..
when i reinstall if it doesnt work Ill move the box out of the way for a quick fix.
when i reinstall if it doesnt work Ill move the box out of the way for a quick fix.
