Hello everyone. I'm obviously new to this forum, so here is where I'm at:
I'm looking to build a C5 drift car. I have laundry list of items needed, and a longer list of items wanted. But most importantly, I need to understand the suspension of the C5 vette. I'm looking to purchase a 99-00 hardtop model, but thats not the point.

So do any of you vette heads have any recommendations for a suspension setup? This is what I've looked at:
Polyurethane bushings/sleeve kit
PFADT Camber kit
GM Metal end links
Hotchkis swaybar kit
PFADT Coilover kit

I believe the hardtop dosn't come with the F45 so I don't need simulators, right?

Mainly, i'm aware of how to setup the suspension (stiff springs, with high rebound and low-mid bound), but I havn't had the experience with the car to realy tell whether these are the right parts. I've been driving a nissan for the past 1.5 years (350z) and I'm familiar with any japanese autoparts producers. But now that I'm moving to domestic, I'm in foreign soil and don't know companies such as PFADT and LG. All and any help will be appreciated, so please share your opinion.

How do PFADT coilovers compare to LG coilovers?

Thanks in advance.

 

Call Pfadt and LG and ask them what they recommend for a drift setup with their shocks.

Or just give this gy a call.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKQK92fKa-E

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htVspQIvNV4

 

I was actually more concerned about how their coilovers will hold up. I've tried searching for Pfadt reliability and reviews on this forum for unbias reviews, but keep coming up with for sale ads. Also, what about the other parts. I'm mostly looking at unbias opinions and recommendations from the pros.

 

If you are planning on doing something as stressful as drifting it would be best to call up the vendor and speak with them.

They will best be able to tell youthe most appropriate, supported and approved use fo rtheir product - plus if yo uare seirous about it they will be able to offer options and variations to there stock components that may hep you be more competitive.

On a forum you will never unbiased opinions - I run Pfadts on my car, so I will have positive things to say about them - a person running LG or Motons or Penskes will favour their setup.

You dont get much more "pro" than the guys who make and sell their own stuff.. considering both Pfadt and LG build and use their own products for winning races, they may be a good place to start.

 

Drift cars are set up with tons of understeer. That way when you are hanging the tail out the car remains stable. You want the biggest front bar that you can get and also maybe want to remove the rear bar. Then get some harder tires that will take the punishment and that is a good starting point. It is going to be a miserable car to drive fast, but you will be able to hang the tail out with confidence that it won't really come around...

 

I thought you wanted oversteer ... but then what do I know ... drifting never made sense to me anyway ....

I'd start with the stock suspension .... don't start spending money until you understand what needs changing. The stock FRC/Corvette suspension has a slight understeer, but that can be easily overcome with use of your right foot on the throttle ..... the car as shipped from the factory is pretty well balanced.

I suspect tires will be your biggest "problem" .... most tires made for the Corvette are made to maximize grip ... and notice the rear tires are, in stock setup, wider than the fronts ..... I suspect you will find that changing wheel/tire sizes will get you more gains than screwing with the suspension to start.

Most Corvette suspension vendors concentrate on IMPROVING grip .... you're looking to do something totally different .... I suspect you're on your own when it comes to figuring out a suspension set-up that will work as you want it to.

 

Not sure there are many Vettes that are used for drifting. Sort of spoils the intent of the car which is to go around corners fast without sliding. If you watched the Forza challenge a while ago you saw a an LG setup C6 whoop butt in every event but drifting. The drifting cars and/or drivers didn't even come close in the other events.

Bill

 

For most your purposes the Pfadts having some compression/rebound adjustments may be what you need to sort out the suspension dynamics for drifting. You also may want to actually go with a real 2-way or 3-way coilover.

I'd also see about adjustable sway bars, as you may need to play with those settings as well.

All in all though, most of us here don't have much experience with drifting here so you'll have to talk to the manufactures themselves.

I would think that you're going to some coolers for the peripherals, like the oil, differential, steering fluid etc.

 

Thanks for the information guys.
1. I just wanted to go over the suspension portion with you guys. Power, cooling, fluids are all fairly strait forward and there is soooooo much information available because everyone is looking at those things with a vette. I don't need to start a thread on that.
2. I know how to setup the coilover, as I said. I'm more concerned with reliability and how often the suspension is known to fail under high stress. Most importantly, I want to find out some other manufactures that produce great suspension parts. Seeing as I'm new to domestic, I'd hate to find myself getting ripped off.
3. As for the coilover, any adjustable coilover is fine for drifting. It dosn't need to be specifically for drift or grip. All you need is a high spring rate, with a low bound and a high rebound. The tire stays in contact with the ground as long as possible, and seeing as the roll bars keep the body from moving, all controll (and direction changes) are in control of the driver, and not momentum. Once you remove the rear bar, you inhibit much greater stress on the chassis, and also create uneven contact with the rear tires and the concrete.
4. Tires are not a problem. I can pay 150 a piece for Z rated sumito tires. They are crap, but they provide decent control and are fairly cheap to come by. Also, they are Z rated, which means they are much, much, much less likely to pop when they hit the wire. The structual integraty of the tire is much greater than the other rating (just FYI).

Again guys, thanks. I'll make sure to post up pics one I get the car, and post up the list to meet your approval. But that's all in due time.