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Cammed C5 stalling at idle

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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 10:06 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Pro Street
I am running a TSP 224/224 581/581 114 and I tuned it with HPTuners.Tell your tuner he needs to adjust the Base Runnig Airflow table.It has to parts to adjust P/N and in gear. If he needs to look at my table and how to adjust it PM me. My car idles about like stock!
yes but you have a 114 and he has a 112,so you will have better idle no matter what.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 10:12 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by turboed
yes but you have a 114 and he has a 112,so you will have better idle no matter what.
I know that it will have more lump to it but we can make it idle with out stalling! Mine has lump to it also and it never stalls!
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 11:47 AM
  #23  
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As mentioned above increase the airflow in the Desired Airflow in Gear table to fix the problem. Adding a couple degrees of timing at idle will help as well. You may need to lean out the lower rpm range of the VE table, but you need some datalogs to see if it's running rich. Either way, that's a small cam that doesn't require extensive tuning, so a couple tweaks should fix it.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 01:23 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by iced98lx
MTI Atlanta? I can't believe they would drill a TB anymore....
NOTE: That was NOT MTI Racing in Atlanta that did that.

Back in old days, drilling a hole was common. It is NOT necessary anymore due to the vast availability of good tuning software.

A good tuner should be spending several hours with the car to give the engine precisely what it needs. Revisit the tuning and you'll find better results.

Please call us if you have any questions.

Last edited by MTI RACING; Aug 26, 2008 at 01:46 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 02:53 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by MTI RACING
NOTE: That was NOT MTI Racing in Atlanta that did that.

Back in old days, drilling a hole was common. It is NOT necessary anymore due to the vast availability of good tuning software.

A good tuner should be spending several hours with the car to give the engine precisely what it needs. Revisit the tuning and you'll find better results.

Please call us if you have any questions.


A good tune takes time, WOT is easy, drive-ability is the hard part.

A 224 cam is a small cam, and pretty easy to tune. If it is tuned correctly that thing should idle and drive like stock
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 07:37 PM
  #26  
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Once again, thanks for the replies. I have no experience with this situation so i am seeking info.

Thanks,

TIm
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 07:52 PM
  #27  
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ha drillin holes.. someone mentioned that after seeing homer simpson drill "speed holes" in the hood.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 01:18 AM
  #28  
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Car has been tuned in haha. No more stalling. Pretty happy with the 224 R cam. Car feels much stronger.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 09:53 AM
  #29  
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I have the exact same cam from Thunder Racing for my MN6, and it idles pretty well. When I run the A/C, sometimes it idle hunts when dropping from 2,000rpm's as I come to a stop.

I remember when reading thousands of threads in researching what cam I wanted to go with that the .224/.224 on a 112 can present idle issues for A4's. I think if you research here and over on LS1tech.com, you'll see that most A4's go with the 114LSA, and I imagine the ones that do the 112 go with a bigger stall. As vettenuts said, the stall is probably the issue. He's right 98% of the time.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 10:01 AM
  #30  
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Can anyone give me a negative of drilling a small hole in the TB blade? Reason I ask is when I installed my MTI X1 cam I drilled a small hole and the car drove like stock with a STOCK tune. Never stalled, never idled high, idled at 800rpm actually. I filled the hole before my dyno tune though so it's not there now, but now my car idles closer to 950(I asked for it to be around 800 if possible) and my tuner said the reverse split cams won't idle that low without stalling???
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 11:09 AM
  #31  
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I had a similar problem after getting my cam installed. the issue didn't show up because I only had issues when it was hot. I had the cam installed in wintertime and the car drove perfectly until the weather got hot. Then problems showed up all the time. even in spring when it was in the 80's with about 1000% humidity the car would stall when I come to a stop (6 speed) sometimes it would stall again immediately after restarting. then it would get back into a good mood and I'd have slow idle but no stalling. My tuner did a great job with it, took it out on the road in addition to the dyno and it runs very well now.

also keep in mind that there could be other causes for your stalling. I had another car with an automatic once which would drive perfectly then suddenly stall without any warning. it would start right back up again and run fine. it took replacing the fuel filter, new plugs, and a few bottles of fuel system cleaner to get the problem flushed out but it drives flawlessly now. its always possible that you had a minor problem like that and the cam change just exacerbated the problem resulting in some stalling issues.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 11:40 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 97C5owner
Can this problem be corrected with a simple tune now??? How long has this software been available??
Yes, EFI Live and HP Tuners have the ability to do this. Been around 2 years now I think. There alot more tables available to the tuner now than before. Of course, the tuner needs to be well knowledgable on how to use the software. Its not just point and click.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 03:42 PM
  #33  
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My problems was a stalling on hot starts. Idle is commanded to 690 rpm. Had some tuning done with EFI live (I don't know jack about tuning but thats what he is using) and no longer have the problem. we ran the car till it was hotter than h*ll and never stalled on restart. The cam would probably work better with a higher stall but right now I'm happy with it as is. Much stronger at WOT.
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