I'm about to put my car in the shop for no start issues. It starts when it wants to. I'm hoping its as easy as the ignition switch or a starter solenoid. Before the car wouldn't start today it said service tire monitoring system and service vehicle soon. Sometimes it says check abs, service traction. < I believe the check abs and service traction is ecbm related. Wondering if anyone has seen service vehicle soon? And it seems like the car has more no start issues when its hotter (daytime) than at night. And it seems like after sitting over night, in the morning it starts on the first try for the most part. Any ideas or comments?

 

Hi, before you put it in the shop, check the following
1, don't assume the battery is good, test the voltage, it should not be lower than 12.2, that is about half charge, try taking it to autozone, advance, pep boys, they will load test for free. Load test is the only real way to know for sure.
2, check the batt cables for cleanliness and proper tightness, at the batt, the ground, the starter lug, and the underhood fuse block.
If they check out, then you can look to the starter, ig switch, tdr relay and such.
Good Luck

 

Good info. Read and post your DTCs

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

These are the absolute best C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!!

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html


Go to “technical data base” and then to “Corvette ECM Computer Codes”. Then select your year car. Read the instructions and then scroll down to the "READ MORE" window to view the code definitions.\

Here is another very good site:

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

Post the results



BC

 

If these experts ideas don't solve the problem and you're torn between replacing the (known problem) ignition switch or starter ---

After replacing an ignition switch early 2008 (probably a bit early) my 2002 continued having random acts of no-starting. My office had moved to a building with a very hot underground garage -- often above 110 all day. The problem slowly worsened over a 2 year period, often leaving me to bum rides home and 4 times getting towed to dealer only to start fine the next morning. Sometimes it started after I held the key down; in these cases I heard a slow whirrrr with the key held down then it started. (Might not apply if you've been to too many rock concerts; I hear better than most people even at 50, was sonar eligible at 19 and never could abide cassette tapes as a kid in the 70s.) It was a no-start no code intermittent thing the dealer could not diagnose. Major guard got all the grounds cleaned and several parasitic draw tests and 3 new batteries. I was at my wits end. I posted a thread here and Bill Curlee suggested I think of the starter. Got the same advice at corvettemechanic.com. I bought a $4 12 volt LED at Frys. I had the dealer install it since major guard was only just expired and I wanted to keep their ownership of the problem. I showed them the wiring diagram from Bill Curlee's sticky. They ran it across the starter solenoid S-terminal to ground, and put the LED dropping down behind the trim by drivers right knee. They removed the dash trim panel to get a clean install, and now right next to my right knee is my little green "Starter Solenoid Energized Idiot Light." I paid 1 hr dealer labor. I don't feel bad about this because they have lost 10+ hours of unpaid diagnostic failure time. Two days later, the idiot light lit immediately and 5 seconds later -- it started. This idiot light is the only way to QUICKLY choose between a slowly failing starter solenoid or something upstream in the circuit.

The dealer replaced the starter, problem solved. The whirrr was the solenoid slowly, painfully, closing. The happiest ending of all -- I called the 800 # the dealer gave me for GM customer service, suffered through a couple long phone conversations, the dealer documented it was a multi-year problem started while under warranty, that I'd already spent $350 for ignition switch and $115 for the idiot light -- and Major Guard extended the warranty for the $550 starter.

The general ROCKS!

Premature starter failure is a problem with these cars, exacerbated by high-heat envrionments. I now drive my sturdy F150 to the office garage from hell most days of the week.

The old fashioned "starter relay" by the battery has been replaced by the "anti-theft" relay under the dash on the passenger's side, and unfortunately the solenoid is now an integrated part of the starter so it's a unitary replacement (or so I am told). Bill Curlee told me it's rebuildable and next time it goes, that's the route I'll take.

GM could make the diagnosis of this a snap for dealership electricians by flashing the PCM to set a code when it get's the fuel enable signal from the BCM but fails to get RPM after a few second interval... Anyone in Bowling Green listening? Optional TSB?

Unfortunately it's a pain getting the starter out -- manual says you have to drop the cat but people on the forum here have improvised around that. Requires garage, equpment, time.....If I get married again and have a house with a garage instead of this apartment.....

So (have someone) install this idiot light and you will be diagnosed your very next no-start. Either the starter, or something upstream in the circuit. The mod conclusively eliminates everything but the starter from being the cause of the problem. If it's not the starter its an intermittent in the clutch switch, theft relay (cheap) or failing those the BCM or ignition switch ($$). Bill has posted how you can DIY the igntion swith if you're up to it. The BCM, well, you're hosed. You can do it yourself easily but it's a $350 part.

Good luck and PM me if this works,
Eric

 

Eric

Glad that you got it all fixed and come cash back to boot!! The Solenoid on top of the starter was the main part of the issue. Their easy to replace once the starter is out. I had to purchase a deep well long thin 1/4" drive socket to access two of the three screws that secure the solenoid to the starter. Not a big deal. More tools isn't a bad thing.

If your in a bind for cash, and have an intermittent no start issue and have determined that all the wires on the battery and starter are intact, clean and tight, replace that solenoid. Their about $35-$40 at any starter/alternator shop. Beats the hell out of buying a new starter.

Bill

 

I had the nut the holds the Positive cable on the starter back off, and the cable would only make contact on occasion. I had anticpated pulling the starter to replace it, but when I got underneath, I jsut tightened the nut up, and it's been fine since.