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A-4 Removal/Installation

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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 09:12 AM
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Default A-4 Removal/Installation

My (automatic) transmission is starting to go and I thought I could save a few bucks by dropping it myself along with the rear and taking it to a local shop for re-work. Wanted to do this myself also to get a feel for how this all works too.

I did a search but came up with nothing about what is involved. (my search skills aren't the best, i know already) so if you know of any informative links, please let me know.

I plan on doing the removal at my son-in-laws house where I have access to his lift and trans jack etc.
Any help/how-tos would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels
My (automatic) transmission is starting to go and I thought I could save a few bucks by dropping it myself along with the rear and taking it to a local shop for re-work. Wanted to do this myself also to get a feel for how this all works too.

I did a search but came up with nothing about what is involved. (my search skills aren't the best, i know already) so if you know of any informative links, please let me know.

I plan on doing the removal at my son-in-laws house where I have access to his lift and trans jack etc.
Any help/how-tos would be greatly appreciated.
First off I would suggest getting the GM shop manuals from someone like Gene at www.gmpartshouse.com. They are very good and cover everything.

Next, if you don't have one get at least a cheap digital camera. Take photos of all the routing of the wiring harness/connections and brake lines before you take them apart. It will help on re-assembly

Its not too bad of a job really. I don't have anything bookmarked, but search on clutch installs and diff/gear swaps. The A4 is pretty much the same except where it attaches to the flywheel. There you need a 10mm (I think) hex head (like an allen key) to unbolt the drive line from the flywheel and its done through a port in the bell housing.

Basically, first take off the exhaust mid pipe, then the tunnel plate. Then you drop the rear cradle, undoing the suspension (shocks, upper a-arm) and the bolts to the frame. You drop it a few inches to get access to all the bolts to undo the torque tube from either the bell housing or trans. I go with the bell housing end because its setup to come apart that way. Before disconnecting you need to stabilize the bearings in the torque tube with some bolts. This is another A4 only thing. Also, the over the axel and mufflers will come down with the rear cradle. You have to unhook the trans wiring harness from trans and differential as you drop the trans. And you have to be careful with the brake lines.

Good luck!
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 01:17 PM
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http://www.c5frc.com/DIY/ClutchInstall/index.htm

http://mikemercury.home.att.net/342.htm

http://www.cajundude.com/c5techhome.htm
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 02:02 PM
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Thanks!
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 02:59 PM
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Do a search for threads by Patches. He did a whole rear end swap, converter install and other stuff with some great pictures in a thread.

Or just pm him and he could probably be a big help.
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 03:11 PM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1561006519

Here is the link.
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by EStreeter
Wow! Thanks Patches

I remember reading this thread when he was doing it...I need to convince my kid to let me stop occasionally to snap a picture of the progress of the brake lines etc. He's like a bull in a china closet when doing these things and his train of thought is not snaping pictures but going full out with the wrench turning

Thinking about re-doing gears while its out. Probably go from 342s to 390s. Would I be smart in going with other then the Yank SS3200 Stall I have in there now if my intentions with the car are street and some track time?
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by EStreeter
Do a search for threads by Patches. He did a whole rear end swap, converter install and other stuff with some great pictures in a thread.

Or just pm him and he could probably be a big help.

Patches (and others) have done an awesome write-up. One thing you might keep in mind is that you do NOT need to drop the entire torque tube (Patches mentions this in his how-to as well). I recently swapped my converter and rearend. Did it all myself in my garage with the car on jack stands. It was quite straight forward. If you have a lift and some help it shouldn't take you any longer than 6-7 hours total. It was fun. Enjoy!
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels
Wow! Thanks Patches

I remember reading this thread when he was doing it...I need to convince my kid to let me stop occasionally to snap a picture of the progress of the brake lines etc. He's like a bull in a china closet when doing these things and his train of thought is not snaping pictures but going full out with the wrench turning

Thinking about re-doing gears while its out. Probably go from 342s to 390s. Would I be smart in going with other then the Yank SS3200 Stall I have in there now if my intentions with the car are street and some track time?

I'm running 342s and the SS3600. I kind of wish I went with the SS4000 and 3.73s. I have plans to install a SC soon so I'll stay with the 3600...with the added torque of the SC it should slip to 4k anyway.
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 05:29 PM
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Just did mine.Piece of cake.I have a hoist which makes a big difference.Use the front driveshaft bolts and a wrench to turn the torque converter to get at each of the 3 bolts.
Good luck.
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 396375
Just did mine.Piece of cake.I have a hoist which makes a big difference.Use the front driveshaft bolts and a wrench to turn the torque converter to get at each of the 3 bolts.
Good luck.
How do you like it? Notice any differences?
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH
How do you like it? Notice any differences?
I'm still waiting for converter,driveshaft,brace and rear Jay.Will let you know.
Thanks.
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