I'm getting ready to install the new GM bolts. When using locktite will it make a difference if I use high strength (300 degrees) or the high temp (400 degrees)? I ask because I bought the high strength, due to not looking at the bottle. I'll be using my service manual, sharpie method and ls1howto for the bolting sequence.

 

What loctite, there is none required on head bolts.

 

DO NOT USE LOCTITE ON HEAD BOLTS!!!

The following comes from the GM service manual.


Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
# Tighten the cylinder head bolts.
Tighten

1. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
2. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using the J 36660-A .
3. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) to 90 degrees and the M11 cylinder head bolts (9 and 10) to 50 degrees a final pass in sequence to using the J 36660-A .
4. Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 30 N·m (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward, tightening all of the bolts.

 

It's a good thing I asked before doing this. I'll forget the locktite and put her back together. I can't wait until I get a tune next. Thanks for the heads-up guys.

 

Make sure you remove all burrs and razor scrape block and head surfaces. Then clean with lacquer thinner.

 

using new head bolts is always a good idea , though not always necessary ,all the advice posted is correct & on the money. always follow service manual instructions but if unavailable there are some general rules that apply first, it is advisable to chase all threaded holes W/a tap second,check head and deck of block W/ a straight edge and feeler gauge ( I think 3 thou or less is acceptable)also use straight edge to check threaded holes are not pulling out of block if they are a slight chamfer w/a rosebud ( preferred) or drill bit,third, most require a little engine oil unless going into water then a suitable sealer(usually silicone)NEVER put sealer in a blind hole it can crack the block(years ago honda or toyota found this out the hard way). if you can't borrow a straight edge they're about $50 check head bolts for burrs best to replace any w/burrs bo not use die to clean threads on head bolts remove burrs w/ thread restorer(looks liks a square file) avail. most well stocked auto parts store
ps apretty useful tool.if bolting sequence is unknown start in center and work your way outward in an ever widening circle. Bolting on a set of heads is pretty easy as long as you check everything and clean everything, everything attaches to it and you want to do it only once. I hope you find this helpful ..... just my .$02

 

If you have used GM headbolts - they are not to be reused. ARP headbolts can be reused.

 

the beauty of arp's

 

You are exactly correct. The OP has posted another thread regarding this problem.... apparently his bolts are moving after torquing.

 

Not true. Stock head bolts should not be reused, and the torque sequence is not a circular pattern (it used to be 30 years ago on a SB Chevy)....

time to get caught up on the new technology bro......

 

I personally went with ARP head studs and am very thankful I did as I had to pull the heads due to a head gasket issue initially.

However, I went back and checked the service manual on this procedure because I, too, was sure Loctite should not be used and I never have as it seems it would throw off the torque values. But - before the quoted portion of the procedure above, it mentions cleaning the remnants of thread locking material from the head bolt holes before installing the new ones so either that is an error in the SM or Loctite is used in the factory.

 

new head bolts a good idea ,( I use new head bolts on all my hi perf. builds, not ARP they are a top quality part but they have them made for them I use pioneer with no probs. & much less $$) though not ALWAYS necessary in this case necessary.quote"always follow SERVICE MANUAL INSTRUCTIONS" IS MY ADVICE .The general rules still apply if head bolt sequence is unknown and the car HAS to be finished WHAT DO YOU DO?

 

Has to be finished? In other words, there's not enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

The information is available, so readily, it's inexcusable to not have it at the ready before you start the task. Like I said, the old school circular torque pattern was a no brainer for old SB Chevys(lord knows I've done my share), but it does not apply anymore to LSX engines.

Finally, I've always worked in a profession that did not allow me the luxury of guessing, so having the correct information, is just part of the job to me.

 

I thought the stock bolts came with a nylon patch or similar, not loctite. Something like at this site:
http://www.accuratescrew.com/Optiona...-Features.aspx

Its the redish/pinkish patch on the bolts. And, it kind of beads up and is still a little sticky when removing the bolts. But does come off pretty easy.

Lots of reading available on head bolts, go to ARPs web site and browse around. Some interesting info there, but nothing on the nylon patch.
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/Tech.html

 

I remember that reddish locking material on mine when I did heads/cam in 2002. Here's the quote from the SM:

"Clean the engine block head bolt holes (if required). Thread repair tool J 42385-107 may be used to clean the threads of the old threadlocking material."

 

This is a post about using locktite on head bolts, so we're talking with an indiviual who most likely is not a seasoned mechanic but hey, no problem we're here to help. given his most likely experience level some accepted procedures were covered (checking deck ,head F/ straightness ,chasing threads ect.) I most certainly agree that undertaking a task in this day and age with all the mediums we have at our disposal, information readily available everywhere,you should be ready.But there are still times when repairs MUST be finished regardless of information specific to the particular vehicle.to infer that my advice was irrelevant is just not true ,or that I encouraged him to just wing it then do it over is a distortion of my advice most engines produced today have a tightening sequence in a circular manner from center outward the exception to the rule is the new s.b. chev (LS) as I stated those were general rules aand they are all sound advice . I also told him to aalwys follow service manual instructions.I don't know what profession you're iin but every one there is always the little unknown theres always some educated guess .Oppenheimer thought when the first A bomb detonated that the chain reaction wouldn't stop and the earth would blow up lucky for us he was wrong.

 

I will have to look up that tool. I just purchased a set of ARP thread chasers to clean the threads without removing aluminum and am wondering if the tool called out by GM is a tap or a thread chaser.

My response to the OP (1st response) was based on his asking the question (or how I interpreted it) as to whether additional Loctite should be added to the head bolts.

 

You cannot re-use torque to yield fasterners (stock bolts) EVER. They are engineered to stretch. After being stretched, and then having load taken off them, they have lost their elasticity. They should not EVER, EVER, EVER be re-used.

ARP are not TTY fastners, and can be re-used.

Always follow the factory torque specs and procedure for tightening fastners. using the old Gen I SBC method designed for a 5 bolt head on a 4 bolt GenIII head is asking for a host of issues.

Also never use anything like oil, threadlocker, or anything which might skew the torque reading as it will affect your readings on the bolt without ensuring you have a spec for that modifier to the torque value. If you look at ARP's recommendation going from their bolt lube to oil it change ~10 lb/ft