Why do I have cold air blowing on the passensger side and warm on the driver side?

 

Actuator is stuck on the driver side. Clear your codes, pull fuse#27, wait 30 seconds, re-insert it and turn the key on. If they don't index, you may need to replace it.

 

If the fuse #27 reset does not fix it, before you dig into your dash, you need to accurately check your 134a level. The first sign of a low charge is the drivers side getting warm. Plasticfan has the goods on checking your 134a.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ghlight=ac+101

 

mine is doing the same thing drivers side then pass side i do lose freon 1 can a year would that be the same thing

 

Hi, I agree with streak, more times than not the op's problem is caused by an improper refrigerant charge, usually due to a leak, possibly very small, that may take years, or larger that may leak out in days, weeks etc.

Dodd- yes the advice pertains to you also

Blownbluez06, the proper wait time for the fuse 27 recal is NO LESS THAN 60 SECONDS--See Below.
Luck to ALL
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Re-Calibrating Actuators
Use the following steps to perform the calibration update:

Turn OFF the ignition.
Remove the battery positive voltage circuit fuse of the HVAC Control Module. Fuse #27

Important
The module memory will not clear if the battery positive voltage circuit fuse is installed in less than 60 seconds.


Wait 60 seconds.
Install the fuse.

 

I unfortunately had to replace the drivers side actuator.......

 

I have seen both: Low charge and actuator problem. I have also fixed both.

Easy way to tell which one is the problem: Start the car and turn your AC to max. (Set it to 60 degrees on the drivers side and coldest setting on the passenger side if you have a dual-zone A/C system.)

After you feel the temps on the passenger side get cool, take a temperature measurement. (You can get a temperature probe cheap at the auto parts store.) If you have a decent charge, you should see a low temperature cold deck. (55 degrees, maybe?!?!) If it's closer to 65-70 then you MAY have a low charge.

Reason: The passenger side receives the cooling first due to the evaporator and duct work position. If the heat load is high enough and the charge is low, you won't have enough cooling capacity to remove all of the heat from the vehicle.

So now we check for a bad actuator: Above your right foot under the dash is the Bose stereo module. Remove it. (2 screws and one electrical plug.) Flip on to your back and look up under the dash, towards the center console. There is a tube about the size of your thumb running from the firewall towards the dash. Move it out of the way and look at the side of the dash, about where the radio is located.

There you will see the actuator. It is held in place by two screws. You can see where it connects to the hot/cold deck damper, and if you look closely you can see indicating marks that show the range of motion for the actuator.

Now with the car running and AC on max, turn the drivers side temperature to full hot. You should be able to see the actuator rotate to full hot deck. Wait a minute, then rotate the temperature control to full cold. You should see the actuator rotate back the other direction. (Total sweep is maybe 50-70 degrees?) If you get NO motion, or if you hear clicking in the actuator, then it is probably bad and needs to be replaced.

You can also remove the actuator from the dash and test it while hanging from the wiring harness.

I will bet you that your car is just low on charge. A simple check with a set of gauges will tell you a lot.

Good luck.

Mark