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Help! Torque Tube Install

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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 04:57 PM
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Default Help! Torque Tube Install

I cannot get the torque tube back in. Trying to install rear, tranny and torque tube together. Installing torque tube by itself is out of the question since I installed a DTE brace. I took measurements before I removed everything but still wont go in. I can slide the clutch alignment tool in and out with no problem. Checked the wiring harness above the torque tube and it is not in the way. What are the negatives using longer bolts to pull it together?
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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This has been asked before, but it would probably be hard to find in a search of C5 Tech. I wouldn't even know what to suggest to use for keywords.
You might contact some site supporting vendors who do this work on a regular basis. They've probably experienced it and know some secrets.
I recall that some suggested minute rotation of the splines and the angle seemed to be the key.
Personally, I would not try longer bolts. It's there's something binding, that's a good way to break something. We used to do that with "old school" aluminum Muncie transmissions and many owners broke of the mounting ears.
When we had the issue of the clutch not aligning in older cars, pushing in the clutch pedal would allow for everything to mesh.
I just tried a search in C5 Tech, using keywords "align torque tube". I found several past posts. This one stuck out...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...que+tube+align

Last edited by hotwheels57; Sep 14, 2008 at 06:18 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 07:24 PM
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Had the same trouble. I eventually had to remove teh tranny and install the torque tube by itself. Everything has to line up almost perfectly before it will slide back in. There was just too much weight on the back end with teh tranny and diff attached. You should be able to reinstall the diff brace. Just remove the rear cradle off the diff and you have all kinds of room.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ssmith512
Had the same trouble. I eventually had to remove teh tranny and install the torque tube by itself. Everything has to line up almost perfectly before it will slide back in. There was just too much weight on the back end with teh tranny and diff attached. You should be able to reinstall the diff brace. Just remove the rear cradle off the diff and you have all kinds of room.
Same thing happens to me, had to install the TQ Tube first and then install the Trans/Diff...

Don't use the TQ Tube bolts to "draw the Tq Tube" into postions, you will most likely strip the bell housing bolt hole threads...
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 09:40 PM
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If you have an angle gauge, measure the angle of the engine. You will notice that is is sagging slightly since the torque tube is not installed. Then, as you are installing the torque tube, make sure the torque tube is at the same angle and height as the motor.

Also, make sure you keep the transmission is in neutral.

Once you get it to the point where the throwout bearing is touching the clutch fingers, take a C-clamp to the lower bolt hole. You can pull the two together. Once their close enough, thread in the two side bolts.

HTH..
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 09:49 PM
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I know some people are dont say you should do this but in ALL of my installs, I have done a number of these from motors to trans reinstalls.

I always Just use a longer bolt, I typically do 3 if you can line 3 up if not 2. You can get them at a hardwars store, I actually hang on to mine for future installs, I just put washers and such on them if they are to long.

I use my impact and slowly drive it in. the bolts will "center" the assembly and it works everytime. I have tried and tried to push it into it, expecially at home its near impossible.

the bellhousing is much more forgiving and strong than people give it credit for, I saw it flex alittle but the TT was consistantly pulling into the engine. The key is to get what bolts you can in ther nice and straight and it WILL work.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 69
Same thing happens to me, had to install the TQ Tube first and then install the Trans/Diff...

Don't use the TQ Tube bolts to "draw the Tq Tube" into postions, you will most likely strip the bell housing bolt hole threads...
No offense, but have you ever actually tried this?? Ive done this a total of 7 times, including several times on my own vehicle. I have yet to strip even ONE thread, even after multiple installs on that same vehicle.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 10:49 PM
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Get the angles right and it will slide right in. I would not risk drawing them together.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 10:50 PM
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Finally got it in, had to use 1/2" larger bolts. Lined two bolts and then pulled it together. I was skeptical doing it this way because I was afraid of pushing the pilot bearing towards the engine seal. Guess I will find out soon enough Thanks everyone!
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by vettekidc5
I use my impact and slowly drive it in. the bolts will "center" the assembly and it works everytime. I have tried and tried to push it into it, expecially at home its near impossible.
You know, you may believe you are an expert because this method has worked for you every time but I know a few people that have broken parts trying to force them together. I'm one that has broken lots of stuff with brute force over the years. Brute force needs to be applied carefully. So, there is no way I could ever recommend someone try this because I would never want to be the one responsible for breaking their parts.

Using longer bolts to hold the parts in-line and snugging up longer bolts so that you can release the clutch are valid tools to help install a transmission.

I've recently done my C5. I just did it with just the torque tube and it was pretty easy. I read that the DTE brace can be installed with the torque tube/transmission/rear end bolted to the engine so just do it that way if all else fails.

The one I did before was a 4th gen Firebird. Now, these are really easy because they have a pull clutch. Get it close enough you can get the clutch fork together then just work the clutch while wiggling it around and it pulls itself together.

Peter
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 05:35 AM
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One thing I found was the alignment tool had some slop so I left the pressure plate loose enough to move and then measured from the alignment tool to the inside of the pressure plate fingers until I got the same measurement all the way around. Then I knew it was centered. I also used a laser level during removal to get measurements I could use to re-assemble. Mine slid in with one hand while I used my other hand to rotate the shaft for spline alignment.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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This is the EXACT way you should NOT do it..

A bellhousing is nowhere near forgiving or strong. Its a cast aluminum part with no threaded inserts. If you are even slightly off, you will destroy the threads..

I've got a half dozen bellhousings from customers who have destroyed them doing exactly what you reccomended.
Originally Posted by vettekidc5
I know some people are dont say you should do this but in ALL of my installs, I have done a number of these from motors to trans reinstalls.

I always Just use a longer bolt, I typically do 3 if you can line 3 up if not 2. You can get them at a hardwars store, I actually hang on to mine for future installs, I just put washers and such on them if they are to long.

I use my impact and slowly drive it in. the bolts will "center" the assembly and it works everytime. I have tried and tried to push it into it, expecially at home its near impossible.

the bellhousing is much more forgiving and strong than people give it credit for, I saw it flex alittle but the TT was consistantly pulling into the engine. The key is to get what bolts you can in ther nice and straight and it WILL work.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by American_HP@Total Perf
This is the EXACT way you should NOT do it..

A bellhousing is nowhere near forgiving or strong. Its a cast aluminum part with no threaded inserts. If you are even slightly off, you will destroy the threads..

I've got a half dozen bellhousings from customers who have destroyed them doing exactly what you reccomended.

I guess im the special one decended from the heavens to install c5 corvette transmissions.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by vettekidc5
I guess im the special one decended from the heavens to install c5 corvette transmissions.

If that works for you...I say go for it. When you are advising someone who is struggling with a task, and may not have the equivalent knowledge, expertise, or proper tools, then I think there is an obligation to advise them with an approach that has the least chance for disaster. Everyone does not have the same feel for obstruction, or mechanical resistance, when assembling components. As a result, they may try to force things together..not good.

Sooner or later, your approach will yield an unfavorable result....it's just a matter of time.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by vettekidc5
No offense, but have you ever actually tried this?? Ive done this a total of 7 times, including several times on my own vehicle. I have yet to strip even ONE thread, even after multiple installs on that same vehicle.

No offense taken, but to answer your question, yes I have
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 05:26 PM
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I just got done with this myself, I used a C Clamp to pull it in, once the spline was all alligned.... I did just the torque tube first. Not bad but took my time as to not have any cross threading going on.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by vettekidc5
I guess im the special one decended from the heavens to install c5 corvette transmissions.
YUP, you're special all right
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
YUP, you're special all right

Your the one with the stripped bolt holes, and broken parts NOT ME. ha ha

Its all about ability and approach

Technically, when you install like 3 fasteners and tighten each one slowly in different stages, Your distributeing the load across 3 fasteners not ONE. Tighten them crossed like you would a wheel. If you manage to screw that up, not only are you a putz your cars bellhousing is evidently seriously weak.

It takes good judgement on someones behalf to see whats going on, if you see anything that look suspicious while your doing it, simply stop before you screw up its just that easy. I too often see guys totally over thinking things on this board, even the most simple things, making simple things complicated, just read through various threads and youll begin to see.

Im entirely aware the manuals say dont do this, dont do that, They are also the ones written by some office bound yuppie who doesnt know or care exactly how hard some jobs may be. They make a universal message to totally avoid the issue, even though some people could totally pull it off numerous times with improvised solutions, that were well throught out and executed. Its a matter of not being held responsible.

To anyone actually IN the automotive repair field day in day out, not a corvette forum weekend warrior, will know exactly what im talking about wheather its a corvette or a cobalt. At the end of the day, if your own judgment is within question, then just pay someone to do it because your going to come crying for help or screw something up.

Last edited by vettekidc5; Sep 18, 2008 at 11:09 AM.
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