Side View mirrors
:crazy:
1. temporarily compressed the tension spring.
2. cross-drilled a hole near the top of the mounting post.
3. used a cotter pin or similar through the cross-drilled hole to serve as the mirror anchor.
In a big hurry a couple of years ago I used 2X tape and remain amazed by the adhesion, not pretty [from a concept perspective] but rather effective.
mirror housing into the lower section of the housing. It works fine and isn't noticable.
Regards,
Mike
98 Convert, Torch Red
You can now see the retainer clip, that has popped off on my mirror, and spring. There is no chance of putting the spring and clip back in place unless you remove the whole assembly from the door and have some type of spring compressor similar to a valve spring compressor. That spring is similar in strength to a valve spring and in my case has pushed so hard on the retainer clip that the little tabs on the clip have sheared off the aluminum in front of them until the clip was pushed off the end of the shaft.
My solution was to hold the housing in place and drill through the mirror housing and through the base, providing a place to insert a stainless screw to hold it solid. Install a small hose clamp around the electrical cable to be clamped on top of the shaft. Some pieces of double sided tape in the pivot point between the base, that bolts to the door, and the mirror housing also helps prevent any movement. This procedure eliminates the pivoting action, but you don’t have to buy a new mirror either. Place the mirror housing back on the shaft and press it down against the tape, slide the clamp onto the end of the shaft that protrudes inside the housing. Press the clamp down tight against the housing and tighten, then insert & tighten the screw in the hole you drilled. Leave the spring and clip on the wire, there is plenty of room for them.
Then reassemble the mirror. Look over the back of the mirror to see the five pivot points that you have to snap back together. The center pivot and top and left side adjustment pivots will the ones you need to line up first. Just spread your hand out over the surface of the mirror and snap it back together.
If you snap the pivot points back together one by one, you will have two crunch sounds, these are the ones with the silver wire retainers on the end. They are threaded and attached to the electric motor for adjusting the mirror. Along with the two crunch sounds, you should get the "big" snap when the center pivot goes back into place. You'll need to have one hand on the mirror and the other hand on the outside (front) of the housing and press together. You basically get the big snap and the two crunches all together in one terrible sound. That will probably leave the two small position stabilizers, one on the bottom and one on the inside next to the door. Rotate the mirror towards the door until it starts to "snap" and won't go any farther, then push forward on the inside portion of the mirror (next the door) and you should get a small "pop" when that stabilizer goes into place. Rotate it down and do the same thing for the bottom stabilizer.
If you get the center pivot and the two crunch sound connections together, it will work just fine, but it may not be quite as solid as it will be with all five connections made.
If all else fails, stop by when if you're in the neighborhood and we can snap everything back into place.




Bill
Hey Electric Blue, sorry to hear about your mirror disaster. I can't even begin to tell you how mad I was when I found out what a brilliant design :U the mirror assembly was on our 97's. WHY did they even put a "breakaway" :rolleyes: mirror on the car? Anyway, before I start to totally go off :cuss with "praise" :rolleyes: for the designer of this "thing", let me just tell you I took my drill and drove a screw right through the housing into the base. My wife said "Oh my god, honey....your damaging the car" I told her that it cannot be fixed and a new mirror was $200 bucks. She grabbed the drill outta my hand and ripped into it herself. I think the screw thing works pretty good, but the pin through the post above the tension washer is another good idea. I thought of soldering the washer to the pin on my "good" miiror so it wouldn't happen to the other one. There is no way to compress the spring in that little space inside the mirror. Believe me, I tried a million times and broke my knuckles trying. :mad
Steve
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
[Modified by SebringBill, 11:13 PM 1/9/2002]
Hey SebringBill, do you realize how much money you could make by providing this service to pissed off vette owners around the country(world)? I'll be first in line of those pissed off vette owners for this stupid, unneccessary problem! Just think, you could charge $20 bucks a shot to do this, save tons of people some serious money($200 ripoff by Chevy!), and put one of the largest automobile manufacturers to shame(which they should be shameful of that PATHETIC design of a mirror). I am going to try this on my spare broken mirror I got back from the dealer a while back(they probably keep the broken one's they replace, fix them and then rip us off again with the same one's!) Thanks for the great idea. I was told by the service manager at my local Chevy dealer that there is no way to fix this, you just have to replace it. Gee, I wonder why they don't just fix these things for a couple bucks. Maybe it's because they know that us vette owners will HAVE to buy a new $200 dollar one every time this happens. :mad
Steve
It seems stupid for them to install the break-away type,because no matter
what happen , you have to replace the whole thing, kind of stupid :cuss











