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Anyone know? I want to "upgrade" oil pans and drop the batwings for turbo clearance around the APS kit. Wondering if the LS3 pan is the same as the LS2 pan, thought I'd see if anyone had a clue. TIA.
That thread only shows a LS2 and LS7 oil pan so i would assume that the LS3 oil pan is the same.
Good find, I didn't see that on there earlier when I was searching. But......I can't be guaranteed that's correct because of the LS7 having a different block than the LS3, and thus probably a notably different pan given the dry sump system.
Going to give Gene Culley a call tomorrow and see if he can verify some part numbers.
I just installed a C6 pan on my LS6. It is a brand new take-off so I believe it to be a LS3. The place that I bought it from said the LS2 and LS3 are, physically, the same pan. The only Gen III block related difference is an extra bolt hole in the rail of the LS2/3 pan where the LS1/6 block is not drilled and tapped for a bolt (using the factory supplied LS3 pan gasket still riveted to the pan, so it will still seal around the open bolt hole). C5 pick-up tube still fits, same bolts, same sensor locations. Easy, no-brainer swap.
I will get their name off the box and a P/N off the pan for you, shortly.
I recommend this 'swap' for anyone who has their engine out! C5 oilpan is unnecessarily cumbersome and complex, especially for a car that responds so well to long-tube headers.
I do not have a pan yet. Just checking to see if the LS2 and LS3 are different or the same so as to open up my searching options for one at a good price.
Didn't get a chance to call Gene today. Hopefully tomorrow.
My pan has a bar code sticker on it with P/N 12598186.
I got it from SMC Performance Inc., in Auburn Hills, MI. I think it was just under $200 shipped, and looked BRAND NEW (with pan gasket, bolts, C6 oil level sensor, oil temp sensor gasket, magnetic drain plug... all new and clean!). I didn't even have to hose it down with brake clean! Just took it out of the box they sent it in, and bolted it down.
I would just call them and see if they have one. It will be tough to beat their price for what you are getting. It will save you time and confusion, too.
PM me if you want their phone number.
Unfortunately the original "batwing" pan is far superior to the LS2/LS3 style pan when your discussing oil control and windage losses. If your drag or road racing especially the batwing pan is the way to go....probably has 3X the amount of oil control and better baffling.
The only improvement GM made when switching over to the newer style pans was an improvement in their bottom line. The original pan likely cost triple as much with its gaskets, multi pieces, and complexity, but it truly was a well engineered piece.
If you need the room to go turbo though the newer style pan is clutch....
Unfortunately the original "batwing" pan is far superior to the LS2/LS3 style pan when your discussing oil control and windage losses. If your drag or road racing especially the batwing pan is the way to go....probably has 3X the amount of oil control and better baffling.
The only improvement GM made when switching over to the newer style pans was an improvement in their bottom line. The original pan likely cost triple as much with its gaskets, multi pieces, and complexity, but it truly was a well engineered piece.
If you need the room to go turbo though the newer style pan is clutch....
Just an FYI
Tony
I was kind of figuring this was the case, and took it into consideration, but you hit the nail on the head at the end. I've got the turbo's on the car, and am looking to free up some room for some inlet work. I don't road race the car and occasionally take it to the track but not for serious competition, so I'm not too worried. I'll be keeping my batwing pan just in case I want to swap back for some reason.
Unfortunately the original "batwing" pan is far superior to the LS2/LS3 style pan when your discussing oil control and windage losses. If your drag or road racing especially the batwing pan is the way to go....probably has 3X the amount of oil control and better baffling.
The only improvement GM made when switching over to the newer style pans was an improvement in their bottom line. The original pan likely cost triple as much with its gaskets, multi pieces, and complexity, but it truly was a well engineered piece.
If you need the room to go turbo though the newer style pan is clutch....
Just an FYI
Tony
Good to hear. Funny GM said that the LS2 style pan was better (improvement) over bat winged oil pan design in there advertisements about the LS2 motor.
I'm going turbo (I think) so I have LS2 pan. I'll add oil cooler and accusump just for safety.
Unfortunately the original "batwing" pan is far superior to the LS2/LS3 style pan when your discussing oil control and windage losses. If your drag or road racing especially the batwing pan is the way to go....probably has 3X the amount of oil control and better baffling.
The only improvement GM made when switching over to the newer style pans was an improvement in their bottom line. The original pan likely cost triple as much with its gaskets, multi pieces, and complexity, but it truly was a well engineered piece.
If you need the room to go turbo though the newer style pan is clutch....
Just an FYI
Tony
There is a GM LS3 Batwing Oil pan too. Click HERE and I thought I read that the LS6 Batwing will fit, but not sure on that.
if you are not running a dry sump on the LS3 you NEED a BAT wing oil pan for the LS3. Too many LS3s have gone BOOM do to oiling issues while racing. For street use, no problems.
We have a huge thread over in Autocross and Road Racing on the LS3 oiling issues. Bit old may need to search for it.
Best fix for the LS3 is a dry sump system. an ARE system or Daily Dry system
Last edited by AU N EGL; May 14, 2010 at 05:39 PM.